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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 11-15-2003, 05:21 PM   #4966
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Quote:
I am wanting to run 12th scale..what is the best kit out there?
Now that is going to start a fight!
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Old 11-15-2003, 06:30 PM   #4967
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Default Re: best 12th scale

Quote:
Originally posted by hogdaddy77
I am wanting to run 12th scale..what is the best kit out there?
Gotta be the Altech car for sure

Seriously mostly all of the current cars are capable of winning races.
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Old 11-15-2003, 06:47 PM   #4968
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I read a few page back, someone mention AE is going to release the 12L4 soon, any word? What's new? new chassis? new diff?
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Old 11-15-2003, 06:48 PM   #4969
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Hey guys. Just got a Speed Merchant Rev3. Wondering what things I should look at getting as far as performance hopups? I run TC and offroad. This will be my first 12th. Any info you can provide will be appreciated..

Thanks
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Last edited by ultragraffics; 11-15-2003 at 07:01 PM.
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Old 11-15-2003, 07:48 PM   #4970
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I'm no expert, but the fast guys at my track run with IRS rear axles and diffs and use titanium upper suspension hinge pins. (HGI, available on Tower Hobbies' web site, about $10).

Everything else is build tricks. The big ones center around the front end.

90% of it is driver skill though, so don't think you need to spend lots of bucks to go fast. Mostly its just lots of practice and understanding driving lines and throttle control.

Run purple fronts and grey rears on carpet, with 0.020 front springs and about about 11-12 lbs rear springs with 35 wt oil. (Olive to silver stock associated, I think)
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Old 11-15-2003, 08:16 PM   #4971
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I appreciate your honesty. I will be running on carpet and on asphalt. Any suggestions for that? I will look into the IRS stuff as I had some of that on my old TC3. Is there any informational websites on the 12th scale cars? Looking for any info I can find basically.

Thank You
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Old 11-15-2003, 08:25 PM   #4972
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ultragraffics-- Try this:

Old skool front w/ 2degrees of caster and .020 springs

Rear: White side springs w/ losi heavy hydra drive fluid in the tubes

Batteries in the rear and mount the servo flat on the chassis like you would with a TC.
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Old 11-15-2003, 08:50 PM   #4973
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I would only use heavy hydra fluid if you have a fast open flowing track, but if you have a short track or lots of technical areas, I would use lightweight hydra or 100wt shock oil in the dampner tubes. What Adam said about white springs in the rear is a good place to start. As for the front end just try the dynamic front end and the old school front end and see which one you like better. My personal preference is the old school front end. Good-Luck!
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Old 11-15-2003, 08:55 PM   #4974
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Thanks a bunch guys. I am writing everything down. The car has the dynamic on it now. Will try both and see what I prefer. I dont have any setup sheets for the car. I would assume there are some on the net. Anyone know of any? Onc again...any info is appreciated.
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Old 11-15-2003, 09:11 PM   #4975
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Try .20 springs up front and white progresives in the rear. Put Associates green slime on the front king pins. Center the upper arms on the hinge pin by putting one teflon shim in the front and rear of the arm. Use 100 wt shock oil in the dampner tubes if the track is tight and technical or if it is open use losi hydra light or medium. Ride height should be 4 mm or 3 1/2 mm. Front camber should be about 1 1/2 degrees of camber. Batteries back. Purple front tires and grey rears. 35 wt shock oil in the center shock with the stock silver spring. With all the electronics in the car make the pod level with the chassis. When you lift the car by the front of the top pod plate, the bottom front of the pod plate should rise 1 mm (also known as droop) before the tires come off the ground. I think that should get you going.
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Old 11-15-2003, 09:25 PM   #4976
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Thanks again. I am gonna have alot of stuff to try. But it makes it easier this way. How are these cars on the ride height? Are they that sensative? I see you mention 3 1/2 and 4. Most tracks I have seen is a 3mm minimum. Most people I have talked to so far like 3 1/2. Thanks again...
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Old 11-15-2003, 09:34 PM   #4977
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I start off in the beginning of the race day with about 4mm of ride height and by the main I am down to 3 1/2mm of ride heght because of wearing in fresh trued tires. Usually the lower youcan have the car it will transition quicker is what I think (faster in corners). I think ride height on a touring car is a little more critical than a 12th scale (more weight transfer).
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Old 11-15-2003, 09:36 PM   #4978
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By the way make sure your rear pod moves freely with those links, but don't run the links to loose or your pod can shift and snap in a different direction.
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Old 11-15-2003, 10:29 PM   #4979
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Wow, I completly killed my 12th scale today. I was having small glitching problems during the day, and I got one glitch that sent me into a 120 joint between two pipes and heres the damage list:

- chassis is very tweaked now I'm sure

- the screw in the center of the rear pod connecting it to the "football" thing tore through the lower rear pod graphite and delaminated it.

-One speedmerchent side link end broke

-One of my damper tubes wont stay on anymore

-The center shock got torn apart and I might of bent the shock shaft, but I'm not sure yet.

So overall I broke 5 of the 6 points attaching the rear pod to the main chassis while running stock.

I don't feel like spending any more money on this car because I would have to order all these parts form other places. And my track or any local hobby shops dont carry any parts for this car. I'm pretty sure that I've decided on the new trinity reflex 12 thats coming out. Because that car is going to be sweet.
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Old 11-15-2003, 11:11 PM   #4980
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429racer - thanks for the additional info. i appreciate it.

RacerDx6 - Sounds like a bad day brewing at your track. Ouch... Keep us updated on that new car is you get one...
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