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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 11-14-2003, 01:37 PM   #4951
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NOw-that is a proper looking T-PLate car. by that I mean its designed for only 4-cells. I'd say with the Dpowell car, the RugRat, T-Fource, CEFX12-the 12L chassis has pretty much bit the dust!!!

NIce job CRC!!

Now-the battle still rages on between Springs and T-plates!!! hahaha!!!
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Old 11-14-2003, 02:50 PM   #4952
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nikos2002,

I think you can still get BBR stuff. I race 1/8 scale nitro with those guys here in the bay area. I don't have any e-mail contact info or anything but you should post a message on the RAMS message board at http://www.rams-rc.com and mention BBR and one of them should reply.

Besides the Lotec, I saw that ROAR finally approved their Mazda GTP body this year. I think they have been waiting for a long time on that one.
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Old 11-14-2003, 07:45 PM   #4953
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Default assembly of rear diff/axle rev.3

I just received my rev3. in the post today and am attempting to assemble the car.

Unfortunately, the instructions leave a lot to be desired. This is my first pan car and i am having difficulty assembling the rear end.

does any one have any photos or directions that may assist in this area?

one other thing, are the 2mm spacers also refereed to as ride hieght adjusters?

any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

skink:
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Old 11-14-2003, 09:31 PM   #4954
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what is the best body out know that would work on my rc12l3. I racing on this track www.edmontonrc.com
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Old 11-14-2003, 09:46 PM   #4955
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Default Re: assembly of rear diff/axle rev.3

Quote:
Originally posted by skink
I just received my rev3. in the post today and am attempting to assemble the car.

Unfortunately, the instructions leave a lot to be desired. This is my first pan car and i am having difficulty assembling the rear end.

does any one have any photos or directions that may assist in this area?

one other thing, are the 2mm spacers also refereed to as ride hieght adjusters?

any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

skink:
Follow the links below and check out the 2 part Associated 12L3 manual online, they should provide you with some ideas on how the diff goes together.

Part 1

Part 2
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Old 11-15-2003, 12:06 AM   #4956
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Quote:
Originally posted by nashrcracer
thanks disaster999 I need to start working on my 6pack so I can have a run in before I go to Cleveland. as for the kit just call them you'll probably get frank. I know I have talked to him on when I bought my 6pack last year. I even asked if he was coming out with a rotated battery slots last year and he said no. well just have to see what the new car is. can't wait I'm going to wear my digi cam out posting the results and pictures to my site.
oh its alright, it seems like my track does have the conversion kit. just got it today, and it ran pretty good! it feels a lot better than my damping plate!

do you use the springs that comes with the kit? i didnt bother putting it on!
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Old 11-15-2003, 12:13 AM   #4957
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depends on if your running stock or mod. if you run stock use the springs and not the tplate screws and if you run mod use the tplate screws and not the springs. I cut the tabs off the cross bar that the springs hit on so I can never use the springs again unless I get a new cross bar. one thing I recommend is to get a piece of brass and drill a hole in the center and put it under the tplate screws if you use them. otherwise it cuts into your chassis and with give you different readings on the tweak. i'll get a pic if I can find one.
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Old 11-15-2003, 09:08 AM   #4958
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70 mph- I like the Parma Speed 8 it seems to be quite low but high enough to accomodate everything. I prefer the light version just to shave 1oz. off. Regular weight if longevity is a factor. Alot of racers are running the Protoform Ascari mainly in Mod it seems very cramped with that one. Those are the two I mainly see A couple fast guys run the Protoform Bently also, You make the call.
Good Luck and look into the Quad 12 conversion it worked for me
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Old 11-15-2003, 11:00 AM   #4959
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thanks nash, i mainly run stock but tried running with t plate and it was running fine, ill try running with springs next time and see how it goes
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Old 11-15-2003, 11:22 AM   #4960
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Default re-rear end set up rev.3

SteveG

Thanks for the associated links.

Unfortunately, It would appear that the diff I received is either different or missing parts.

Does anyone know wether or not the rev3 and 12l3 use the same diff?

The kit that i have does not have a cone shaped washer and i can't seem to figure out how to tighten the diff.

Consequently, If I can't figure it out soon i'm going to order a different car next week.

skink
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Old 11-15-2003, 11:33 AM   #4961
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I thought my Rev3's diff was missing parts too. It should be put together like this. At least this is how I had mine, before I got my IRS diff. Bearing in the axle carrier,diff,ring,gear,ring,bearing inside ,hub, outside bearing, then the washer and finally the plastic nut. Try it like that. I think that is how I had it together. I don't remember for sure. If I were you upgrade to an IRS diff, it works a lot better, but it's not a neccessity.
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Old 11-15-2003, 11:39 AM   #4962
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Default re-diff rev 3

Am i correct in saying that there should be a bearing on either side of the hub? If so. it would appear that I am missing a bearing
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Old 11-15-2003, 12:25 PM   #4963
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On the diff side I know AE only includes one bearing and it goes on the outside where the cone, belleville washer and nut is. In the stock AE type diff which I think is what the Rev 3 comes with you will have 3 bearings in total...2 for the axle and one for the diff side hub.
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Old 11-15-2003, 12:29 PM   #4964
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On the stock AE type diff if you want a bearing on the inside of the diff hub close to the spur you will need to either machine it to accept a 1/4 X 3/8 flanged or buy an optional hub that has the pocket already machined in. If you want to have a bearing in the center hole of the spur again you will have to machine the part off the hub on the axle or buy another axle that accepts the bearing.
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Old 11-15-2003, 04:49 PM   #4965
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Default best 12th scale

I am wanting to run 12th scale..what is the best kit out there?
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