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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 11-13-2003, 02:16 PM   #4921
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if you prefer links + tri-shocks , you can stick to your favourite cars
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Old 11-13-2003, 02:22 PM   #4922
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if you prefer t-bar + straight cells + tri-shock + battery brace + old school,

you can choose the latest SP12M and save money not to convert L3 + X Conversion. it's the original version of tapeless battery hold down and their own version of OLD sKOOL
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Old 11-13-2003, 02:24 PM   #4923
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speedxl-- A few years ago Tri had a front end that was almost inedtical to the AE dyn. strut. The went to a combo of their old skool (being the 2 tirod set-up) and the new lower arms. That is what they run now. The design of the AE is good its just that the plactic they use allows for a large varience between 2 of the same parts. I have 3 10 degree mounts that are a full .10" difference in length. This makes shimming to much work.
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Old 11-13-2003, 02:27 PM   #4924
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if you feel the dynamic front is no good, you can crash other type of front end to the concrete wall and see which one doesnt break.
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Old 11-13-2003, 02:33 PM   #4925
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I just switched my AE 12L3 back to the old style front end after about 6-7 race nights with the dynamic setup....yea I might give up some mid corner and on power bite but everything is always a trade off.

I remember when the dynamic strut front end first came out, I never got comfortable with how it made my car steer and I still feel the same...thats not to mention that something needs to be fix in the molds and I'm thinking maybe it's the screw hole alignment for the upper arm mounts. A 2 or more degree castor variation from side to side sucks and trying to remember what shims go where so it's on the money in the heat of the moment is just silly. I very much like the Trinity\Kyosho setup but I'm not buying into or building a new car just for the sake of a front end. I have a bunch of Kyosho parts that I could make a clone of the setup but screw that I doubt if having it would make or break a club race....

Here's a pic of the old Kyosho Impress 12 car....like I said I have a few complete sets of the front end plastic parts and the rear pivot balls & sockets as I was going to clone the car. The front end was trick at the time and one thing I really liked about that car was the rear pivot and how you could adjust the roll center and wheelbase. Wonder why Kyosho never continued to develop and produce the car
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Old 11-13-2003, 02:34 PM   #4926
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A pic of just the front end...
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Old 11-13-2003, 02:38 PM   #4927
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maybe the japanese had given up on the out dated design and sold off their 1980 old fashion technology to AE to produce the RC12
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Old 11-13-2003, 02:40 PM   #4928
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Yea maybe they did Dandy
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Old 11-13-2003, 02:43 PM   #4929
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and AE kept the discarded jap design undeveloped for 20 years till 2003!!
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Old 11-13-2003, 02:51 PM   #4930
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dandy the conversion isnt over priced the kit isnt just a batt brace its all the carbon fiber components the chassis plate the aluminum stands the brace the hard ware and the chassis cross brace the upper and lower pod pieces and its not just the reason for the brace but the carbon fiber is higher quality than that sold in other kits which use cheap graphite which makes you buy a chassis every 2 to 3 monts because their stressed out plus besides it being a thicker and stronger material the car has changes to the loctation of the battery slots that make the car handle better . i own one and have been very sucsseful with the car i can tell you this its worth every bit the 100 bucks i spent .
out of curiousity dandy spahet what do you run.
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Old 11-13-2003, 03:10 PM   #4931
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Quote:
Originally posted by dandyspashett
and AE kept the discarded jap design undeveloped for 20 years till 2003!!
The Japs shoulda sold it back to Gil Losi...think it was his idea in the first place


Hey now there's an awesome picture....get Gil jr to design a new 12th scale...bet it would be made from stiffazel and be just a wicked ride
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Old 11-13-2003, 04:06 PM   #4932
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the problem I have with the Associated front end is the bent wire holding the upper arm on. (just got 2 sets of the HG pins) I have sat there with a racetech caster gauge and watched it change 2 to 4 degree as I rotated the bent pin around in the hole. the end of the pin is warped. see attached. the nice thing about them is if you set it right it's easy to ajust the camber so that your tires wear flat. yes I know if the car is set up right it should cone the tires but at the club level it's stupid to worry about cutting the tires each round.
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RC50 As you come into this world, something else is also born. You begin your life, and it begins a journey towards you. It moves slowly, but it never stops. Wherever you go, whatever path you take, it will follow never faster, never slower, always coming. You will run, it will walk. You will rest, it will not. One day, you will linger in the same place too long you will sit too still, or sleep too deep. And when, too late, you rise to go, you will notice a second shadow next to yours. Your life will then be over.

Last edited by nashrcracer; 11-13-2003 at 04:13 PM.
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Old 11-13-2003, 04:31 PM   #4933
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Default Re: CRC T-Fource?

Quote:
Originally posted by fast-ho-cars
wonder if this is the car in early testing stages?

http://www.rcracechat.com/forum/attachments/JG_3.JPG
well does anybody have an answer on this one I'm dying to know.
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RC50 As you come into this world, something else is also born. You begin your life, and it begins a journey towards you. It moves slowly, but it never stops. Wherever you go, whatever path you take, it will follow never faster, never slower, always coming. You will run, it will walk. You will rest, it will not. One day, you will linger in the same place too long you will sit too still, or sleep too deep. And when, too late, you rise to go, you will notice a second shadow next to yours. Your life will then be over.
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Old 11-13-2003, 04:37 PM   #4934
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Old 11-13-2003, 04:52 PM   #4935
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just trying to help out my fellow racers!
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RC50 As you come into this world, something else is also born. You begin your life, and it begins a journey towards you. It moves slowly, but it never stops. Wherever you go, whatever path you take, it will follow never faster, never slower, always coming. You will run, it will walk. You will rest, it will not. One day, you will linger in the same place too long you will sit too still, or sleep too deep. And when, too late, you rise to go, you will notice a second shadow next to yours. Your life will then be over.
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