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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 11-10-2003, 01:43 PM   #4816
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Default CRC T-BAR

Quote:
Originally posted by dumper
Fike-CRC has a new t-bar car coming soon. No tape needed. I hope I am not letting the cat out of the bag too early. Perhaps JohnnyWhopper can give us some more details. It is cool looking.
You don't say... have you seen the Quad12 chassis? Dpowell does a execllent job. So anyway, howl ong before we get to see photos?

E
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Old 11-10-2003, 01:46 PM   #4817
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Quote:
Originally posted by CypressMidWest
My big suggestion would be to obtain a CRC 6-pack Chassis, or a PRC Quad 12 chassis, as the stock Yokomo unit has FAR too much flex for extremely high bite carpet.
CMW...
you're doing it again, you should say "that it's your opinion...."

Sooo just kidding.....
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Old 11-10-2003, 01:47 PM   #4818
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I have not seen the quad12 chassis......

The new car is a 4 cell t-bar car. There should be info coming on the teamcrc website soon......
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Old 11-10-2003, 01:51 PM   #4819
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Quote:
Originally posted by dumper
I have not seen the quad12 chassis......

The new car is a 4 cell t-bar car. There should be info coming on the teamcrc website soon......
Powell Racing Components (PRC) Quad12
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Old 11-10-2003, 01:55 PM   #4820
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Thanks- and what kind of soon? this month, next month before Cleveland, this isn't going to be another available summer 2003 (lol) thing is it?

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Old 11-10-2003, 01:56 PM   #4821
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Just to clearify, I NEVER spoke against CRC as a company since they do make great products, and the people who work there are also very friendly and approachable. My opinions are only about certain design aspects of the CK. Whatever I have said (which are OPINIONS) about the CK have come from personal expeariances. And the reason I retracted the one about the pivot pointing lining up is because I did not check it myself regretably. And I want to make it clear that I do admit that I was wrong there.

Now that all of that is behind us...

My $.02 on the Yok is that it does come with some great parts (the diff, front end has some nice hop ups, etc), the chassis how was specifically designed for the worlds, which were mod on asphalt. SpeedXL can share his opinions of trying to race the car on carpet...

I would personally suggest picking up a Quad 12 chassis if you want to stick with a t-bar car.
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Old 11-10-2003, 01:59 PM   #4822
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Quote:
Originally posted by Fike
CMW...
you're doing it again, you should say "that it's your opinion...."

Sooo just kidding.....
OKAAAAAAAAAAY! Certain statements are actual fact!!! But If you LOVE Traction Rolling, and dumping because the car is SOOOOOO inefficient, then perhaps my factual statemnt can be reduced to " MERE Opinion". I so love semantics LOL!!
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Old 11-10-2003, 02:10 PM   #4823
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Sushi- Ive only run my Yokomo YRX a couple of time this season... I can see where a flexy chassis can take away some consistancy, especially on carpet, but it seems that is the way Yokomos have evolved with the whole SSG thing and with MR4-TC cut upper decks, like they are a specialized for asphalt, but if thats the car you got , run it. Im going good with...
stock chassis
purple fronts44mm-ish/grey rears46mm-ish
.022 front spring
-2 camber/1 toe out
associated 40wt shock oil with blue spring
stock T-bar with all three screws in
ofna 3000 wt diff fluid for tubes with IRS red springs
100t spur with 30-35 pinon monster stock
stock yok body
front caster 3/4 of the way back with the trailing axles
try to adjust the chassis tweek with the dampner tubes, i have IRS tubes you can turn with a wrench-not sure about the other brands

that should get you going
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Old 11-10-2003, 02:18 PM   #4824
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Fike...were did you find that Spashett quit TRINITY and will run a CEFX-12?
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Old 11-10-2003, 02:21 PM   #4825
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Quote:
Originally posted by fast-ho-cars
Fike...were did you find that Spashett quit TRINITY and will run a CEFX-12?
The talkin' with Josh Cyrul thread. It's the truth.
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Old 11-10-2003, 02:22 PM   #4826
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Josh posted the thing about David on his forum.
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Old 11-10-2003, 02:23 PM   #4827
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I saw that too. I haven't seen his car yet....
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Old 11-10-2003, 02:35 PM   #4828
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I leave for one day and this is what I have to read.

I spent all last winter with a CK and I loved it. Over the summer I drove Switchblade and hated the parts support. (Not due to any direct fault of Trinity) This winter I'm running a Rev.3 and although I am not in love with the car yet I know that once I get dialed in I will.

This is the case with all 1/12. Out of the box they all suck until you find a set-up that works for you. I spend most winter racing Cryul when he is in town and have ran with him for years. It's because of help from guys like him that my cars are fast. (If I could drive them )

Any car can work for anyone it's all a matter of preference not which company shows up at which races.
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Old 11-10-2003, 02:38 PM   #4829
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sushi boy i ran the yokomo before i started running the quad 12 which to tell you the truth is the car to get especially since you got the parts to do the conversion.
i had to due alot of reinforcement to the chassis by glueing to plates together and running a .074 thick t-plate with a silver center spring and .022 fronts spring with trailing spindles. plus you'll also have to run a body with less downforce then the mercedez it comes with the best body i found to work on the car was the parma speed 8.
you'll save a lot of grief by getting the quad 12.
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Old 11-10-2003, 02:50 PM   #4830
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All I have to say is that I race with stormerperson week in an week out, and he is one cool cat! Always wanting to help a driver regardless of the type of car it is.
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