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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 11-07-2003, 10:36 PM   #4756
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Wow.. you guys love or hate one 12th scale or another. Anyone have any idea how much actual R & D goes into a CK?
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Old 11-08-2003, 05:48 AM   #4757
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adam- orange is very soft and I only use it for asphalt, some guys use it for low traction carpet. Normally I have stuck to blue's for club racing. Also do you notice any difference with that esc? does the variable drive freq. or whatever work well?
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Old 11-08-2003, 07:07 AM   #4758
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Quote:
Originally posted by nashrcracer
Hey tres what up! Carbondale dec 14th maybe, then you can pay me back.


I run both the bloody six pack in mod and the bloody butterknife in stock. You won't get me in a speed merchent crc associated fight but I will say this, the rev3 or the ck are not mod cars. they do not snap back as fast as a tplate car coming out of the corner and as was said here the springs give out just as much as the tplate but I'll tell you this if I hit the wall with a 8x1 d5 in my tplate car I bet it doesn't ever break the chassis or have that stupid o-ring come off.
No you may not lose an O-ring, but you'll cut the tape, and thrash that T-bar. If you had a wreck that broke the chassis on a link car, the chassis on the t-bar car woulda broken too. I've run 12th scale for 15+years and I can say without doubt that link cars survive impacts WAY BETTER than T-bar cars. (I've done alot of stress testing with both!) I do however dislike molded side links, they are definitely more frail than the good old three piece links.

Of course Silva's spring steel T-plate will take alot of the inherent frailty of a t-bar design and put it to rest.

But you still have to deal with a car that transfers too much weight. You don't have to fling the weight back on center in a link car as hard as you do in a T-bar car, because you didn't throw it over there so hard to begin with.
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Old 11-08-2003, 09:33 AM   #4759
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I cant believe all you 12th scale guys on here havent mentioned the best way to keep your 12th scale rubber side down.......kinda sad actually.

Here goes....this is what EVERY factory guy does as well.....

Super Glue the edges of your tires, you will never roll again. I promise, unless it is from some other tweak issue. Use a paper towel to apply it.....fold the towel up a few times and place some glue on the towel and wipe it around the edges, you dont have to be perfect as it wont really hurt unless you start doing the whole tire!!!!

Compound the full rears and about half of the fronts....give or take to the conditions.

Then....whoop some axle
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Old 11-08-2003, 09:37 AM   #4760
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this tuning solution has been put forward many times infact.. perhaps you shoudl read up a few posts, i think stormperson has put it forward quite recently, perhaps on the last page

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Old 11-08-2003, 02:41 PM   #4761
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stormperson-- The Q2 makes a big difference. I can go 9 minutes pull the car and the battery, esc, and motor are not even warm. The only down side is that brushes wear a little faster. 2-3 runs on a set of 4505 instead of 4-5. Also, the reason I have been using reds is that we are only allowed to run jack the gripper or tq on our tires. By the end of the night the car sticks to wall the tires are so stiky. If I run white or blue the car dosen't want to transition very well due to the massive amount of grip.
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Old 11-08-2003, 05:34 PM   #4762
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I missed that post.......but still, I gave a little more detail for those who may not know exactly how to do it

Chris
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Old 11-08-2003, 05:43 PM   #4763
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I'm running a AE 12L3 and don't plan on changings cars, that being said, is there a better method than the strapping tape to hold the batteries in?
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Old 11-08-2003, 06:10 PM   #4764
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Quote:
Originally posted by Scrubb
I'm running a AE 12L3 and don't plan on changings cars, that being said, is there a better method than the strapping tape to hold the batteries in?
I ran a 12L3 and its predecessors, and strapping tape was the best way.
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Old 11-08-2003, 06:10 PM   #4765
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Adam- Sweet! Now i really have to get one before Cleveland! lol.
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Old 11-08-2003, 08:17 PM   #4766
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stormperson--they are suposed to be in the U.S. this week. if you get desperate and really want one let me know. shipping from Japan isn't cheap but I can have one asap.
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Old 11-09-2003, 06:32 AM   #4767
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Storm - Looks like they are imported by HPI in Japan, and a little on the pricy side, 29,800 yen (about $250). I'd call associated and see when they're getting them, they're the US importer. If you REALLY want one, I can call my fiance's mom to checkout the local RC shop and get one, there are a few killer shops near their house. But it won't be cheap. See you at the track.

http://www.hpiracing.co.jp/contents/lrp/sc.html

Here's a sort of translated one:
http://babelfish.altavista.com/babel...p=ja_en&tt=url
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Old 11-09-2003, 10:26 AM   #4768
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I got mine for $200 and that was with overnight shipping.
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Old 11-09-2003, 12:17 PM   #4769
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I got home from racing last week and found my Dynamic Strut front end was out 2 degrees again yet it was perfect when I left to go to the track ! POS !! I ditched it in favor of the old style front end, simple swap but I needed some plain jane nylon block servo mounts that I could not seem to find at a LHS....so I made my own and the best part is the servo is now slammed and the tie rods are level Check it out here

One thing that concerns me though is that the old style setup nets you about an 8th inch shorter wheelbase...time to hit the expo button maybe I still have to make a center brace for this front end but I got some of Team Cobra's .084 graphite sheet so that should take care of it.
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Old 11-09-2003, 01:06 PM   #4770
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SteveG-- I would use at least .110" thick graphite as .084" wouldn't do much to fight the flex. Also try the Speedmerchant Aluminum braces. These things take care of a lot of flex and they only cost about $25 U.S. You'll love the fack that you can slam a board and the frone end isn't tweaked. The rest of the car may be though.
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