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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 11-06-2003, 11:12 AM   #4726
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Quote:
Originally posted by CypressMidWest
Yes Mike, You are very successful with those pesky T-Bar style cars. I personally was poisoned to the whole T-bar thing a LONG time ago. Once I got my first link car, I never looked at T-bar cars again.

Congrats on your excellent performances at the Classic. You showed KILLER wheel in both classes.
CMW - I had a link car a long time ago. Eventually I realized the t-bar was much easier for me to keep running consistent. It's true that with a t-bar car you lose a lot of adjustments.... but you also get rid of a lot of potential problems too.
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Old 11-06-2003, 11:15 AM   #4727
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Quote:
Originally posted by Fike
ummm, what kind of "t-bars"?
It's hard to beat the plain old vanilla .075 Associated. I'm going to try the new Silva Concepts spring steel t-bar in the next week or two. I've heard a lot of good things about them.
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Old 11-06-2003, 11:19 AM   #4728
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Default setup

Storm-
CRC-
Whites and purples, 48mm and 46mm
Blue sides
black center, 60wt
new front end w/24's
Speed 8
12Q
rollout 34-35

I've been running the low roll center cones on the Rev 3 for some time now.

O'D
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Old 11-06-2003, 11:48 AM   #4729
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Quote:
Originally posted by Mike D
CMW - I had a link car a long time ago. Eventually I realized the t-bar was much easier for me to keep running consistent. It's true that with a t-bar car you lose a lot of adjustments.... but you also get rid of a lot of potential problems too.
Perspective is a funny thing. I've always found a link car far easier to maintain. I never liked the idea of a piece of fiberglass that will deteriorate more one way than the other based on the direction that it's flexed. I found that the car always steered more one way or another after a month or so of racing. The link car will do the same thing, but it's much easier for me two slap on two new tweak springs than to replace a T-bar.
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Old 11-06-2003, 11:53 AM   #4730
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Quote:
Originally posted by Mike D
It's hard to beat the plain old vanilla .075 Associated. I'm going to try the new Silva Concepts spring steel t-bar in the next week or two. I've heard a lot of good things about them.
cool, i dont have to worry about breaking my t bar and more.haha! i break it every now and then
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Old 11-06-2003, 03:45 PM   #4731
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I went to a Rev. 3 this year and it rocks. If only I could get everyone to run mod. I think Mo said it best at nats when he said "Its money".
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Old 11-06-2003, 07:09 PM   #4732
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Thebigbull ..... this is Ruben. Sorry to her that you have not run that Rev 3 that I sold you, bu you need to and once you do you'll end up getting rid of that CK. As far as setup for mod, the car should have been ready to go, i did me very well last year with quite a few wins at our local carpet track. I bough a new one for this season and this is my current setup.
Blue side springs
Med Losi hydro drive fluid for the damper tubes
20 front springs
2 deg caster
White rears
Purple fronts
0-1deg droop for pod
Blue assoc. center spring

I went to whites this year cause I'm running a 9x3 and wanted the car to be a little more planted, Greys work well if there is a lot of bite on your rug, I've run grey's a couple of times when the bite really comes up. You may want to try the TRC granites. As far as adjusting camber and caster. Caster is adjusted with the thin tapered plastic shim under the front arms. The shims are 2deg shims. You have to unscrew the front arms to place the shim. Adjust camber only for een tire wear. I used some extremly thin shims I made from lexan under the inside side of the front arms. Droop and center spring really depend on how smooth your tracks surface is. I run a blue center spring and set the droop on the pod so hat he chassis is jus about level. We race in a building that has some fairly large expansion joints and metal box covers so we have some good size bumps on our track. I hope this helps.
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Old 11-06-2003, 07:48 PM   #4733
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I run on a track with a few bumps also and I can't run any softer than red side springs. Anything softer and the car transfers to much weight and dosen't want to center out.
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Old 11-06-2003, 09:01 PM   #4734
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Default rev.3

Where can I find updated pics of the Speedmerchant Rev.3?

Just wondering because I thought someone mentioned that the website has older pics...


Anyone have any nice digital pics like on their website they could post?
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Old 11-06-2003, 09:18 PM   #4735
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Ok....crunch time for setups on the 12th before Cleveland! Whats everyones preference on bodies for high bite tight tracks...running mod?
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Old 11-06-2003, 10:49 PM   #4736
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Hey can anyone tell me the width of the battery slots on there 1/12 car and if the battery sits flush or below the chassis.

THx
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Old 11-06-2003, 11:43 PM   #4737
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with the CRC you dont need to file the battery slots, it is originally big enough to let batteries sit way below the chassis and damage your batteries on aspault!

guys that run on carpet have no problem with it , you should try CRC on aspault, it sucked , I need to change the plastic ball cup links every few runs if running mod 9T or higher at extreme speed the link cant take the punishment. Cant imagine the car doing the worlds event

the Bloody CRC looked nice with the plenty of red screws but it is outdated English size useless and nobody else in the world use them.

Last edited by dandyspashett; 11-06-2003 at 11:49 PM.
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Old 11-06-2003, 11:52 PM   #4738
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echologic the batt should be flush with the chassis bottom if not when you race on asphalt t.he batt will be ground down. on carpet it will drag on the floor and will eventuall wear down the heat shrink, on some chassis like the quad 12 made by d powell all you have to do is clean t he edges by rounding then so they dont cut the shrink wrap and they sit just right.
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Old 11-07-2003, 12:04 AM   #4739
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Nexus,

Go with the Carpet Knife. You can't go wrong.

The car just has it all in the kit. We had a couple guys get Rev cars.... missing a lot of parts, no steering linkage, no instructions, no tires. No need to fish around for items that are not included when you get a Knife. The CK has racing tires, strong wheels, universal servo mounts, dual aluminum tubes, awesome bearings... it is really complete. The entire kit sells for around $150. There are unfinished conversion kits out there from other companies that are more than that!

The chassis on the Knife is very durable and stiff and the car is under the weight minimum in stock trim. The chassis on the rev car is very flimsy, it flexes a lot with the extra large cut outs in the chassis.

The CK car comes with a dynamic strut new type front end. But I have seen special ordered cars with the old "block" front end. The aluminum tubes are sweet. So, there are more options there.

The roll center thing has been talked about a lot lately..... but it is really a bunch of BS. Cleveland last year in stock, 1-2 had stock CK cars. A bunch more were in the main. At the Ohio Triple Crown race, Carpet Knifes finished 1-5 and 7th. And if you must lower the roll center, CRC sells a superior 3-piece link set that is lighter and leaner than those clumsy adjustable links on the rev cars. However, I picked up a link set and have since switched back to the stock setup.

The car gives me a lot of confidence on the track. Consistant and easy to setup. Plus, unlike a t bar car, you can hit a wall here or there and the car still stays neutral.
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Old 11-07-2003, 04:45 AM   #4740
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Default Re: rev.3

Quote:
Originally posted by Nexus
Where can I find updated pics of the Speedmerchant Rev.3?

Just wondering because I thought someone mentioned that the website has older pics...


Anyone have any nice digital pics like on their website they could post?
I believe the shopping cart picture is the updated kit? it is at least the carbon version.
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