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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 11-05-2003, 09:00 PM   #4711
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Just got the new lowered rear pods for my CK and they are sweet....the ride height adjusters fit in super smooth compared with the the old pods...and the price was great too
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Old 11-06-2003, 12:39 AM   #4712
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Today in 12th scale stock at my track I managed to tap a pipe which sent me to the outside boards and snapped an axle. So I finished the last two laps on 3 wheels, it had to be the worst handling 12th scale I've ever driven, and probably that I ever will. Than in the main I got bumped out to that same board by another car and broke my servo saver. But aside from that it was all fun. I also built the best rear that I've ever built .

stormperson- I do kinda notice on my carpet knife that it kinda digs into a corner hard. And it takes a little while to get out of it. But I still like the car. And can still compete with it. Do you know of any way to lower the roll center on the carpet knife?
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Old 11-06-2003, 02:24 AM   #4713
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Yeah im goin to be running my RC12L3 tomorrow night for the 1st time (wow you all must be so excited, such a high performance unit and all.........sarcasm) with the standard tires on carpet, so i shouldnt expect too much? lol

nice car though.
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Old 11-06-2003, 05:04 AM   #4714
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racerdx- Try and speedmerchant and you will really fall in love You can basically lower the roll center by running speedmerchant side links, lol. They will fit on a CRC, and you have two options (neither are that great unforunatly).
1)get rid of the chassis brace (which sucks because the CRC's chassis is VERY flexable in the rear due to all of the material removed. and then use those holes to mount the side links
2)Use very short turnbuckles and possibly trim away some of the captured ballcups so that you can fit it using the stock mounitng holes.
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Old 11-06-2003, 06:50 AM   #4715
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racerdx6: Based on a suggestion from Mike D., I don't use the front axle that uses the nut. Mike's feeling is that if you happen to contact a board, it's possible that the nut can get caught. This could cause severe damage to your front end. When I used to run front axles with nuts on, I recall finding paint from the boards embedded in the nut and threads.

I'm now using the E-clip to hold the front wheels on. It requires a little more work to remove/install but it sits flush with the wheel, and can't get caught.
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Old 11-06-2003, 06:57 AM   #4716
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Wow you learn something everyday.
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Old 11-06-2003, 06:59 AM   #4717
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Quote:
Originally posted by racerdx6
Do you know of any way to lower the roll center on the carpet knife?
You can also use longer screws to mount the front pivot-balls on and then mount the crossbrace on top of the pivot-balls. It looks hack, but it does work.
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Old 11-06-2003, 07:39 AM   #4718
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Better yet instead of making that pretty CRC look hack you could sell it and get a Speedmerchant Rev3. I've run one the last 4 carpet seasons and when I went from my 12L3 to my Rev 3 I picked up a few 10ths right off the bat. Almost made the 12th stock A main with it at my only carpet nat in 01'. I know of a few guys at my track who have traded in there 12th for a Rev 3 after their first try in one. I also know that a few of them were CRC CK owners. I also know that the team drivers have been using the 6 pack chassis on the rug instead of the current chassis that most people are running. That has to say something about the CK. The CK may seam like a great deal with the tires and all of he pretty red anodied aluminum, and IRS diff but the Rev 3 is a superior design.

Didn't Bruce Carbon (owner of Speedmerchant) work for Frank Calandera (owner of CRC) at one time. If I'm not mistaken I think Bruce did the original design of the CK car. Please correc me if I'm wrong.

In my opinion he Rev 3 is a superior chassis. More responsive and faster thru he corners han the CK that I drove last year. Anyone considering purchasing he Rev 3 will not be dissapointed. It may not have all the bling bling the CK does but the damn thing rocks and I would never drive anoher car on the rug.
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Old 11-06-2003, 08:29 AM   #4719
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schurcr: I think you are correct....
From what I understand Bruce did work and help design for CRC..

I switched from a CK to a REV. 3 last year and have never looked back....

Now I'm trying to get it hooked up in mod.
The car rocks for stock.

I don't won't to buy a new T-Bar car just mod....
Any set-up help for mod would be great.
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Old 11-06-2003, 08:49 AM   #4720
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My understanding was also that they had worked together (and bruce designed the original CK) however they split to a difference in opinion about a business issue.

Tres: What front end are you running? PM me.
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Old 11-06-2003, 09:55 AM   #4721
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Stormperson, you seem to be the Speed Merchant Guru on the forum here. I went from a 12l3 last year to a Carpet Knife and really like the car. In the off season I bought an experienced (used)Speed Merchant in like new condition. I havent had time to try it yet. The information sheet I got with it is to say the least brief. I will be racing mod and 19T with it. I have the spring set for the CRC center and side springs. Our carpet season has just started 48'x100' brand new Ozite. The car has the old skool front end. How do you adjust caster and camber on the frontend. Now that I have time to work on the car I'm anxious to get it on the track. Hopefully friday night. What would be a good basic set up to start with. Oh yeh, I have new purple and greys on it and a speed 8 body. It also has the new IRS rear axle.

regards
Terry
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Old 11-06-2003, 10:22 AM   #4722
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Bruce designed the original Carpetknife, Frank got behind it and helped with the distribution. The original kit boxes had both the CRC and Speedmerchant logos on them. I know, I had one.

A few years later there was a split, and the Rev. 2 and Carpetknife Ver.3 were born. I ran CRC for years, and then made the switch to the Rev.3. Both cars have their strong points, and both are WICKEDLY competitive, but the Rev. 3 offers a bit more in the way of adjustability, and suits my driving style better.

Yeah, you get aluminum pod plates, damper tubes, and Purple/Greys with a Red Edition Knife, but it does cost MORE than a Rev. 3 too.

Either way you go you get a great car, (neither of them have a stupid T-bar!), but I think the edge goes to the Rev.3 for adjustability and driving prowess.
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Old 11-06-2003, 10:46 AM   #4723
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Quote:
Originally posted by CypressMidWest
...
Either way you go you get a great car, (neither of them have a stupid T-bar!), but I think the edge goes to the Rev.3 for adjustability and driving prowess.
I like t-bars.
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Old 11-06-2003, 10:49 AM   #4724
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Quote:
Originally posted by Mike D
I like t-bars.
ummm, what kind of "t-bars"?
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Old 11-06-2003, 11:01 AM   #4725
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Quote:
Originally posted by Mike D
I like t-bars.
Yes Mike, You are very successful with those pesky T-Bar style cars. I personally was poisoned to the whole T-bar thing a LONG time ago. Once I got my first link car, I never looked at T-bar cars again.

Congrats on your excellent performances at the Classic. You showed KILLER wheel in both classes.
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