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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 11-04-2003, 07:28 AM   #4666
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Thanks for your thoughts and prayers guys... my 12L3 survived the mod class with a second place finish. It's nice having that power, now all I need to do is cure a on-power push.
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Old 11-04-2003, 10:34 AM   #4667
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Quote:
Originally posted by Taz_S
where did you find them for $29.99 all i can fine is $49.99?
in the teamcrc.com forum under (bloody knife 3.2?) to one of my questions. as mentioned before, their site isn't updated with the new info yet.

in the 12th forum JOHN F. says:
The new pod plates are now available. They are the same dimensions, still lowered .090. The motor plate now has heat sink fins milled into it, and the left side plate has CRC milled into it. The fit for the ride height adjusters is the best we've ever seen. They fit snug, but slide right in without any work to the plastic being necessary. My favorite difference is the price. $20 less retail!!! Silver, Blue, and (of course) Red plates all retail for $29.99 for the set!

4240 - Red Plates
4241 - Blue "
4242 - Silver "
Pics should be up soon.

For now, until the web store is updated, you can order these simply by ordering their old p/n. Example - if you want red plates, order 4140 on the web store. That set is now discontinued, so your order will be automatically updated. You will not be charged $49.99. Or, you can simply put one of the above p/n's in the additional info box at the checkout stand. Either way is fine untill the page is updated.

Thanks,
John
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Old 11-04-2003, 04:15 PM   #4668
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akrcracer nice to see you did well with the quad 12 if you need help with the car let me know i can help you its ticks me off i didnt have this car at the nats in north carolina. it is the bomb.
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Old 11-04-2003, 04:46 PM   #4669
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Default 12th scale...

What are the most popular 12th scale cars to run?

I've only run a TC3 and offroad so I don't know to much about 12th scale cars...I'm contemplating getting one but need some info.

what car has great parts availability, durability, ect.


thanks.
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Old 11-04-2003, 05:42 PM   #4670
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Nexus- This is discussed alot here, lol. Like every 5 pages it goes into a big thing. Its unfortunate that its impossible to really use the search feature... anyway...

The following is IMO...

Best t-bar car: quad 12 or IRS rug rat

best non- t-bar car: Speedmerchnat Rev 3.

Now t-bar vs. non-tbar....

Its basically what the rear end pivots on and what it is sprung with. T-bars do break, warp and do all sorts of fun stuff if you dont replace them (they can break anyway).

Without going into great depth and repposting alot...

-The Rev. 3 has won the carpet nats for the past 4+ years (i can remember further back than that). Every year with a different driver, so its not the driver, its the car.

There are mulitple Speedmerchant factory drivers on this forum, so there is plently of support.

As far as parts. Almost all 12th scales use AE rear pods (or compatible) and front ends. And rear pods and front ends are the only real thing you would ever replace (baring a very very bad accident with a 7 single motor and a brick wall, lol). So parts support is never really a problem for any car except Trinity and Corally cars.

Please, Please, Please check out the following link. It goes into great depth as to why the Rev. 3 is a great choice....

http://www.teamspeedmerchant.com/cars/rev3/rev3.html (and btw, the car is all carbon fiber, those pics are kinda old, lol).

if you have any Q's please feel free to ask!
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Old 11-04-2003, 05:45 PM   #4671
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Nexus, Don't you know the Quad 12 is the most popular 12 scale out there?? Period! No, I'm just like you.. Not new to RC Racing but new to 12 scale racing. What caught my eye was I own a 12L3 with a hand full of races on it. And saw Doug Powell has cool battery retention system on his conversion kit. So I bought it. Plus Doug's chassis handles better than 12L3. Taping batteries sucks!

Last edited by akrcracer; 11-04-2003 at 11:28 PM.
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Old 11-04-2003, 06:41 PM   #4672
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That reminds me, has anyone seen the rumored CRC Caarpet Knife 3.2? I was supposed to come out last month, but I haven't seen anything on it...

-dave
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Old 11-04-2003, 07:30 PM   #4673
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Default info...

storm and anyone else who has input...thanks for the rundown. the search feature brings back the worst info...


once i saw this thread is over 100 posts long i got tires once i read through 20 :P


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Old 11-04-2003, 08:35 PM   #4674
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Nexus,

I'm new to 12th also. I bought a Quad12. It handles great. Doug has awesome support. Lot's of people on this forum running it - always quick answers here. I'm VERY happy.

I've let several experienced guys at my local track try it and they say it handles as good or better than their cars and I've never set up a 12th scale before.

The only parts I could see breaking are AE parts that are easily available.

I'm sure the Speedmerchant is a good car too - I hear nothing but good things about it.

Good luck!
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Old 11-04-2003, 11:06 PM   #4675
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Dpaton...

Thanks for the interest in the 3.2. Stay tuned to the www.teamcrc.com site within the next few days for photos on the Carpet Knife Team Red Version 3.2.

* New lowered crossplate, lower CG.
* New Battery o-ring hooks for good looks and better retention
* New "sexy" standoffs, lowered and red/silver anodized
* New CRC lowered dual alum rear pods, "CRC" etched in
* New CRC Large "D" ring diff, longer lasting for modified
* New revised and improved Univeral Servo mnts
* New, stonger side link hex balls
* Features CRC white dished wheels
* Racing tires, front purple and rear grey compound tires
* Tool and lube package in kit
* All the goodies from the multi champion 3.1

Most complete, race-ready 1/12th car kit on the market.

Should be released at the US Indoor Champs
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Old 11-05-2003, 02:43 AM   #4676
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Where on the internet could i buy a quad12? Preferably somewhere with an online catalogue. Also some rough prices?

Just got the RC12L3 but i like this 12th idea......they are great cars.
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Old 11-05-2003, 06:53 AM   #4677
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How would you gear a 12x3 Reedy Fury on 4 cells.
I am totally new to 1/12th scale so I guess it would be good to start with a slower pinion in order to get used to the car.
I just want to know what would be a good starting point for a 12 turn motor.

thanx a lot in advance
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Old 11-05-2003, 06:56 AM   #4678
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Quote:
Originally posted by yobbism
Where on the internet could i buy a quad12? Preferably somewhere with an online catalogue. Also some rough prices?

Just got the RC12L3 but i like this 12th idea......they are great cars.
yobbism,
Right now, the Quad12 is only available from me. I'll send you a private message with information about the Quad12.

D.P.
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Old 11-05-2003, 06:59 AM   #4679
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SEND ME INFO TO sfleming@poageengineers.com
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Old 11-05-2003, 07:08 AM   #4680
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DPowell ..... can you send me some info on your quad 12 conversion as well schurcr@comcast.net
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