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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!


BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)


Enneti (Xceed)

As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.


If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick

  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020

  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


Reflex Racing/RSD:


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Old 10-31-2003, 01:35 PM   #4621
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My new car is the same way. Instruction book said 3 washers on top but I still have some slop. I will have to get the shop to order me some extra shims.

What is everyone running fluid wise on the damper pod? I have noticed most setups say trinity red stuff.
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Old 10-31-2003, 01:43 PM   #4622
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john- You NEVER want any unsprung suspenion movement on a 12th scale, it will cause alot of problems. Thus you really wont have any droop either per-say...

As far as the KING pin hitting... Make sure you dont have too many shims, and you might want to remove the sticker on the inside of the wheel that notes the compound. AE should have made the kingpins like 1-2/16" smaller, so that way the wheel would rub the kingpin in some cases and you wouldnt have to shim it so much. (Normally you need like .5cm worth of shims, its really stupid, lol).
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Old 10-31-2003, 02:29 PM   #4623
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Originally posted by jcrouse
Thanks fast-ho-cars. I am going to check the springs. I'll make sure they are .020 and not in bad shape. I am then going to shim until i just barely have no preload. I'm just afraid that it might take like 12 to 15 shims per side. Also, as stated TWICE, the custom pins are hinge ping NOT king pins. How could they possibly hit on the rims? Am I missing something here or is my obnoxious state justified. Just kidding, It's Friday afternoon and I can't wait to get out of work and get home to work on the car. They are as much fun to work on as they are to drive. Well, not quite, but close.

thank you again,
i have .020 springs and have three on top, one inbetween the top arm and steering blk and one thin washer at the bottom were the spring is. this is with stock AE pins
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Old 10-31-2003, 02:57 PM   #4624
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Stormperson...Thanks I'll try that as see what I think.

Fast-ho-cars......Than's exactly what I have now.

I think I'll have to make a couple of custom king pins also.

Thanks everyone,
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Old 10-31-2003, 03:25 PM   #4625
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Hey 1/12th junkies,

Good to see such a popular forum for the best scale in R/C - 1/12th. There are so many forums and boards on the net these days, it's hard to keep track of them all. Team CRC has noticed the popularity of the RCtech forums and plans to stay active here.

If you have any questions or concerns regarding Team CRC products, fire away. We will attempt to answer and assist in any way we can. Also, feel free to stop by our board at www.teamcrc.com.

We see in earlier posts some good and some bad comments about our products. We are here to try to fix those "bad" posts, solving any issues within our ability.

Time to get off the computer and go to the carpet track to practice!
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Old 10-31-2003, 05:08 PM   #4626
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Default Quad12 Roolout Help Needed

I am running a Monster Stock on my Quad12. I run on a pretty tight indoor carpet track. We have a main straight that is about 60 ft. I read to start with a rollout of about 1.6 with a stock motor. Is this correct? I run 48P gears with a 72 spur and a 22 pinion and my car is almost exactly the same speed as the other guys in the class. However, this calculates to a rollout of 1.87 with my tires which are 1.950 diameter. To achieve 1.6 I need to drop to a 19 pinion. This seems to be a huge difference to me 1.6 versus 1.87. What are your recommendations?

Thanks in advance,
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Old 10-31-2003, 07:06 PM   #4627
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Default Re: Quad12 Roolout Help Needed

Originally posted by jcrouse
This seems to be a huge difference to me 1.6 versus 1.87. What are your recommendations?
The track I run on sounds just a little bigger, but I normaly run a rollout of 1.70 to 1.85 with the monsters. You can run with more of a rollout but I think you'll find faster lap times with less.
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Old 10-31-2003, 08:14 PM   #4628
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TeamCRC- just wondering who is actually behind the keyboard....? Glad to see even more particapation from the upper levels of the hobby (you guys, blackstock, baker, cyrul, schumacher, etc...)

BTW, on the new style front end... I have only been running it for a little while however, I was told that it was a bad idea to be running shims anywhere but on the top, I could be wrong, but thats just what I have heard from guys who have been quite successful with the front end.
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Old 10-31-2003, 08:46 PM   #4629
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Our Vice President, John Firsching does much of the monitoring of these boards. In this case, I am the masked man behind the keyboard on this day. Both John and I will try to keep up on the popular forums and here on RCtech.

Regarding the front end, we have played with shims on top, in between the block and some below the spring. Shims above the block but below the arm changes the roll center slightly. I put shim in this area to allow the block to pivot more freely, not so much to change roll centers. The key is just enough to remove play, but not too much to add pre-load.

The new front is faster and stronger, but requires a bit more TLC.

Frank Jr.
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Old 10-31-2003, 08:56 PM   #4630
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Default Reciever Packs

I have posted this before, I just put a 1.2 AAA or 1.5 AAA in Series with the red wire going from the Speedo to the radio. this adds 1.2 or 1.5 volts to the 4.8 we already have and makes for a smooth and consistant servo, and reduces glitching. Works fine for me. An AAA alkaline 1.5 volter lasts about 3 races including practice, heats and mains. I purchesed an extension the plane guys use so I could add my battery with out cutting into the speedo wires them selves. Also If I don't want the battery in the circut, I just can plug the speedo directly into the radio like it was.

David Root
Hello Frank Jr, John. Thanks for stopping by here.
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Old 11-01-2003, 07:06 AM   #4631
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It's awesome to see CRC on this forum!

With that being said, I picked up a Carpet Knife and need a part but noone locally can tell me what it's part number is...My best description is it is the post that comes off the chassis that you use to wrap the o-ring around to hold the batteries in, one of mine has half a screw broken off in it so it is not as sturdy as I would like...

Thanks in advance!
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Old 11-01-2003, 02:29 PM   #4632
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Tigeryan, if your local hobby store carries parts for Trinity cars you can get them stand-offs in different sizes so all you have to do is measure it and find out what length it is. I f you don't find the right size you can take a stand-off and cut it with a dremel. The Trinity ones come in all different sizes. You can just take a small drill bit and drill through the center of the screw and then sometimes you can spin the drill backwards and it will unscrew the screw back out. GOOD LUCK!
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Old 11-01-2003, 08:28 PM   #4633
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Hey John call up Sam for whatever you need. He can probably get it very quickly if you ask nicely. Hmm... maybe that's why my parts take forever to come in.
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Old 11-01-2003, 10:37 PM   #4634
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Default Kyosho\Trinity front ends

Wondering if anyone has experience with the Kyosho\Trinity 12th scale front end setup and if you can maybe post some thoughts and setup tips.

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Old 11-02-2003, 01:10 AM   #4635
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Default RC12L3 Q's

Hey 12thscaliens

Just got an L3. Few things ive noticed.........

The tires are not true? is this norm for Jaco or do they just givee the shot tires to Associated?

The upper suspension arm eyelet needed to be trimmed to allow the shims to rest on the pivot ball (outer edge of eyelet hole opened up about 1mm) which also made steering alot smoother

Thats about it for the bad's.

but with the standard servo saver, will it fit a Hitec servo? i couldnt find an answer in the manual....

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