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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 10-30-2003, 01:48 PM   #4606
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I can't recall what the parts in question were...turnbuckles as you said..but they weren't supposed to be there...antenna was missing...and a couple other things...

again..if they weren't supposed to be there Speedmerchant should do a better job of letting it be known what IS included and what will be required.

I didn't see the parts that were missing or not included as a problem. If it REALLY bothered me I wouldn't have bought a carpet knife

The support of both companies was very good from my understanding. I was able to call CRC leading up to my purchase to inquire about some questions I had on the kit and the upcoming version 3.2....

I also called Speed Merchant..hoping to find out if they had a full-dress kit in the works similar to CRC's Bloody Knife...but all I got was an answering machine each time I'd try to call and never a returned phone call

The LHS that is stocking Speedmerchant seems to be able to contact them...I wasn't.

Oh well...My next car may still be a Speedmerchant...they are a fine looking ride...but for now I'll beat on my CRC
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Old 10-30-2003, 03:43 PM   #4607
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Windsorguy99: Good luck...1/12th's are a blast, and if you can drive them fast, you can drive anything fast. Just remember that the throttle isn't an on/off switch, especially with 1/12th scalers. I have to remind myself of that this weekend!

stormperson: Thanks man...I need the pep talk. I'm bolting in a 6 year old 14x3, so too much power shouldn't be a problem, especially with the insane low turns that people run in mod now. I still need to remind myself not to yank it too hard...
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Old 10-30-2003, 10:43 PM   #4608
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Default Receiver Pack question....again

Ok, got the receiver pack from Pro-match coming tomorrow morning...now I was talking to some racers at the hobby store and they said I might have to do something to the plug for the esc so it wont supply too much voltage to my receiver... I was looking at Chris Doseck's switchblade pics from the last Cleveland race and it seems like on his esc plug, the red (+) wire is removed. Can someone shed some light on this for me? Never run a rec. pack before and I dont wanna fry my stuff. thanks!
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Old 10-31-2003, 12:26 AM   #4609
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The red wire supplies voltage to the reciever by removing it when you use a reciever pack you donot want any other voltage being supplied to the reciever.....

Your thinking is correct!!!
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Old 10-31-2003, 05:11 AM   #4610
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people actually dont run that low of turn motors in 12th scale. I think Josh only runs 8's or 9's and the mortals run around 9 turns.


As far as speedmerchant missing parts... I have never seen that to be the case. Certain things dont come with the kit as was said above however, there was a small period of time when the kit did not come with damper tubes because the supplier had gone out of business suddenly and Speedmerchant could not get them machined properly (apperently only a few machines exhist in the country that are able to make them believe it or not). However, a dress set was included to make up for it, and there was a note stating the situation.

Sometimes its tough to reach speedmerchant directly however, there are alot of guys on this forum (including myself) who talk to him alot, and could mention it.
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Old 10-31-2003, 06:06 AM   #4611
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Like I said...next time...

in the meantime..the guys at CRC were great to get information from, so I'm giving it a shot.

Since this is my first crack at 12th scale I don't think the car will make THAT much of a difference....I still have a monster truck mentality behind the wheel...but I'm slowly breaking myself of those habits...

The way I figure it..no matter what kit I picked, out of the 3 final contenders (Rev3, CRC, and Corally) the car wasn't going to be the limitation.....and any of the 3 would have still been capable as my driving improves.

I have some pretty decent resources locally for 12th scale stock...Wayne vince is still running CRC and I've known him since highschool, so I'll be picking his brain as well as he warms up for Cleveland not to mention the other 20+ people in the local club running CRC...

The first Rev3hit the track here 2-3 weeks ago...but it IS turning heads..I'm sure we'll be seeing more of them shortly
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Old 10-31-2003, 09:04 AM   #4612
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Thanks IMPACTPLAYR
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Old 10-31-2003, 09:28 AM   #4613
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Default Receriver Pack

Quote:
Originally posted by IMPACTPLAYR
The red wire supplies voltage to the reciever by removing it when you use a reciever pack you donot want any other voltage being supplied to the reciever.....

Your thinking is correct!!!
some SC's will not work if the red wire is not pluged in... my Quantum is tht way. Yes I tried to use it with the red wire disconneted, no go. But I do have a 3 channel receiver.

I spliced in a switch on the receiver pack and pluged it into the batt slot on the reciever. So now the reciver pack powers the SC and servo. When doing it this way you DO NOT use the switch on the SC, mount it in a location that makes it hard to access. I mounted mine facing and right up against the body of the SC. That way if someone besides me picks up my car after the race they can't access the switch.

Eric
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Old 10-31-2003, 10:18 AM   #4614
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Default Receiver pack

this works with the LRP Q-comp and Novak GT7 .

removing the red wire was something i only had to do on older ESC's

i have a TEKIN 2 channel rec. i took the AMB transponder wires out of the plug, then routed/cut 2 1/8" channels into the plastic plug. soldered my rec-pack wires onto the top of the gold pins then reinserted into the plug. basically the rec pk and x-ponder are using the same plug. i add a Novak switch for the rec-pk. when i turn the rec-pk....... the ESC, servo, x-pond, & Rec turn on.

if you don't use a personal X-ponder just plug the rec pk into the rec. however if you don't add a on/off switch to your rec pk your car will turn on.

i did not pull the red wire form the esc to the rec. the switch for my LRP & GT7 does not get used (AND SHOULD NOT) so i removed it completely. i mount mine in a 3-2 hump config on the t-bar like the Trinity drivers do. the CRC and SM non-t-bar racers run then usually in a 5-cell flat stick config behind the servo

4-cells power the motor

5-cell micro pk powers the 4 (ESC, SERVO, REC & X-POND) items, also steering is quicker due to increased voltage

weight i don't believe is much of a issue. where i race AMB shop x-ponders (huge for a 12th scale) are used at every race. My personal x-ponder and the 5-cell pk probably weight the same +or - a few grams

on some ESCs, if you remove the red wire going into the REC from the ESC....then your 4-cell pk powers the ESC and Motor. you have to turn on your REC PK first then the ESC. reverse when shutting down.

Not all ESCs are the same when it comes down to receiving power from the REC when the red wire is left in. in this config you may end up draining some of your REC=PK into the motor..........not sure

see ASK JOSH CYRUL forum in trinity tech talk forum he does it same way as mentioned above (red wire left in and not use switch on ESC)


Last edited by fast-ho-cars; 10-31-2003 at 10:41 AM.
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Old 10-31-2003, 11:05 AM   #4615
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Default RC12L3 Front Droop

I'm not sure is my verbage is correct or not in the subject line but here's the issue. My front end seems to have a lot of preload on the suspension. With the car loaded and setting on my board, I can raise the nose with an exacto knife about 1/8" without the tires coming off of the ground. I am not sure yet what front springs I am running. I will check this evening. I can see the free play between the bottom of the spring and the e-clip on the bottom of the king pin when the car is just sitting there under its own weight. Is this normal? waht should it be? What can I do to correct it. I have the dynamic front end and everything is assembled exactly as per AE's manual. I know there is no binging since I have hand worked the front end. I bought and used a .126 reamer for the mating parts for the king pins. I also custom made .078 upper hinge pins with e-clips to replace the bent hinge pins. I the used a .078 reamer on the 10 deg. castor blocks and a .080 reamer on the upper arms. The fron end is SUPER smooth. Lets hear some suggestions.

Thanks all,
John
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Old 10-31-2003, 11:10 AM   #4616
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Default Sorry...correction to above post.

The visual free play is at the top of the king pin (I think) when setting there. I am at work and can't look but logically I think that's where it's at. When the car is suspended (in my hand) is when the free play in visible at the bottom.

John
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Old 10-31-2003, 12:14 PM   #4617
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Default Re: RC12L3 Front Droop

Quote:
Originally posted by jcrouse
... I can raise the nose with an exacto knife about 1/8" without the tires coming off of the ground. Thanks all,
John
Its sound like you do not have the shim spacers installed (small metal washers) or maybe the kingpin that you switched to is too long compared to stock.

I would verify that you installed the metal shims and the king pin length.

Eric
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Old 10-31-2003, 12:18 PM   #4618
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As noted. It is installed EXACTLY as per AE's manual. I don't remember off hand but I believe it is three shims on top. Also, the custom pins are HINGE PINS.

Thanks for the reply,
John
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Old 10-31-2003, 12:52 PM   #4619
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you will have to add more shims/washers (not just on top) to get all the freeplay out but with no preload on the springs. also make sure the custom pin is not hitting on the rim after doing this.
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Old 10-31-2003, 01:01 PM   #4620
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Thanks fast-ho-cars. I am going to check the springs. I'll make sure they are .020 and not in bad shape. I am then going to shim until i just barely have no preload. I'm just afraid that it might take like 12 to 15 shims per side. Also, as stated TWICE, the custom pins are hinge ping NOT king pins. How could they possibly hit on the rims? Am I missing something here or is my obnoxious state justified. Just kidding, It's Friday afternoon and I can't wait to get out of work and get home to work on the car. They are as much fun to work on as they are to drive. Well, not quite, but close.

thank you again,
John
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