R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

Print Wikipost

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 10-30-2003, 07:44 AM   #4591
Tech Regular
 
DPowell's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 454
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by TimPotter
Dpowell,

Speedxl (Hector) is running your car in our state series. He has totoally sold me on it. How can I get one ?
Tim,
I'll send you a private message with info on the Quad12 and my contact info.

D.P.
__________________
www.powellracingcomponents.com
**Record setting carbon fiber**

Speedmerchant and TOP USA dealer.
DPowell is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-30-2003, 07:45 AM   #4592
Tech Regular
 
wheelmanST's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Overland Park, KS
Posts: 483
Send a message via AIM to wheelmanST
Default

Thanks for the replies guys...I found one from Pro-match that im going to pick up. thanks
wheelmanST is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-30-2003, 08:35 AM   #4593
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Posts: 775
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by DPowell
Tim,
I'll send you a private message with info on the Quad12 and my contact info.

D.P.

DP!!!! Would you send me the info on the Quar 12 too? LC

Or is there basic info in this thread? So much discussion about this car! What are the particulars?

Last edited by Graphitedust; 10-30-2003 at 08:43 AM.
Graphitedust is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-30-2003, 08:56 AM   #4594
Tech Regular
 
DPowell's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 454
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by Graphitedust
DP!!!! Would you send me the info on the Quar 12 too? LC

Or is there basic info in this thread? So much discussion about this car! What are the particulars?
Graphitedust,
I'll send you a private message with info on the Q12 as well.

D.P.
__________________
www.powellracingcomponents.com
**Record setting carbon fiber**

Speedmerchant and TOP USA dealer.
DPowell is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-30-2003, 08:58 AM   #4595
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Noblesville, IN
Posts: 61
Default

I'd like to ask for your thoughts and prayers this weekend...I'm running mod 12th for the first time at least 10 years... My poor 12L3....it will be begging for a stock motor to be bolted back in it...
Brolzy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-30-2003, 09:04 AM   #4596
Tech Elite
 
ChrisP's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Shelby Twp, MI
Posts: 2,045
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Send a message via Yahoo to ChrisP
Default

I'll pray for you if you pray for me...

I'm running Stock 12th scale..for the first time ever on Tuesday...

I'm used to running my HPI Savage offroad..and when running my HPI Micro on the same course I thnk it traveled more miles rolling over sideways than it did rolling straight ahead...

Just pray that I can remember that you're not supposed to go for big air jumping the corner dots
ChrisP is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-30-2003, 09:13 AM   #4597
Tech Master
 
stormperson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: MA
Posts: 1,185
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to stormperson
Default

brozly- May god be with you! jk. Mod 12th scale isnt that bad, its just very different than everything else in some ways. Its actually alot like mod buggy outside than anything else. You never want to go full throttle unless your wheels are pointed straight or else you will draw too many amps and dump. Its basically all about how little battery you can use. If you are really good with the throttle than you can run a lower turn motor and have more speed, however, if you are greedy and use more than you need you will dump and have to run a high turn motor to comensate. Alot of guys actually just run 19t turn motors in mod to get used to the speed without having to worry as much about throttle control.

windsorguy99- Have a fun time. 12th scale is a blast. Take it easy, remmeber to tweak your car and make sure all of the car is set properly (ie all correct right heigh and all of that stuff), and to remember how much you sauce your tires each run. I suggest starting out with full rear always (always run full rear sauce) and in the inside half of the front tires. Also I dont know how much you know about 12th scale, so this might be repetiative (but please dont be insulted if you already know this stuff, lol).

-start out with around 50% dual rate, and make sure to check your endpoints BEFORE you ever do a lap

-always ask someone who knows there stuff if you have any questions. most people are very friendly and willing to help, and it makes a hgue difference

- are your tires trued? You really dont want to run a larger tire than a 1.83 front or a 1.93 rear, or else you will have all sorts of problems with handling and traction rolling and such... (this is for carpet, asphalt sometimes you run fresh tires).

-Remember, take it easy, everyone started out somewhere, just try to learn and have a fun time!
__________________
R/C Excitement Special Projects Coordinator
Kwik | Speedmerchant | Parma PSE | KO Propo
Team Pickles
stormperson is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-30-2003, 09:27 AM   #4598
Tech Elite
 
ChrisP's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Shelby Twp, MI
Posts: 2,045
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Send a message via Yahoo to ChrisP
Default

I'm a sponge...tryign to suck up as much info as I can....

I'm pushing my luck though...I took the approach that if I'm goign to get into it...get into it all the way...

Bloody Knife, GM Purple SX9, JR 3550, Fantom 410 P2k tuned stock motor, Fantom 1.180+ pack and just bought a Turbo 35 BL Stelath to give those batteries the love the deserve.

I'll be fortunate if my pretty little graphite chassis isn't a pile of splinters after the first turn.

I plan on setting up my ESC and then dialing some of the speed out of it for a little while....adjust the throttle end point so that I CAN'T go full out....otherwise the chicane at the end of our track's longest straight will help my launch my car into the wall as I try to carve the corner too tight... (already doing this with my micro)

The hottest laps on our track layout have been 12.9-13.0s...Im turning 21's with my micro second night out...the hot drivers are doing 19's....

I'm thinking anything in the 18-19 range for the first few nights is respectable.

I've latched onto a couple locals (that tempted me into buying into on-road) that are both running CRC's....which is why I went that direction instead of the reportedly easier to tune Corally's..

They didn't mention anything about bringin the tires down to size though. I figured that I'd be slow enough off the start that I'd let the chunking shew the tires down???
ChrisP is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-30-2003, 10:57 AM   #4599
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Orlando
Posts: 168
Default

A page or two back a a few racers said they had some old 1/12 cars still..... Post some pics of your vintage cars.
ECHOLogic is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-30-2003, 12:23 PM   #4600
Tech Master
 
stormperson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: MA
Posts: 1,185
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to stormperson
Default

If you wanted the best car you would have gotten a Rev. 3 lol

Anyway, the world needs more people like you! Willing to go all out for 12th scale!

I wouldnt be so hard on yourself though, you would be amazed at how easy to drive a well maintaned and set up 12th scale is. Just remmeber, if you have any Q's make sure to ask them, because if you dont thats when problems normally occur.

Also if you true down yoru tires, you have a lesser chance of chunking. the car will also be alot more drivable and consistant with cut down tires.
__________________
R/C Excitement Special Projects Coordinator
Kwik | Speedmerchant | Parma PSE | KO Propo
Team Pickles
stormperson is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-30-2003, 12:35 PM   #4601
Tech Champion
 
rayhuang's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Cleveland Heights, Ohio
Posts: 6,511
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to rayhuang
Default

stormperson-it is true-a properly set-up and maintained 12th scale is the MOST fun RC car to drive!!! Mine built by Mo is so good I am putting it away and building a "Club" car exactly like it to run. I'll break this one back out two weeks before the Champs or Nationals!!
rayhuang is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-30-2003, 12:56 PM   #4602
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Grand Rapids, Michigan
Posts: 171
Default Mo must be da man

Exactly what does Mo do that is so special. I NEED to know. Please let me see the light and take in the wisdom. Seriuosly, I'm new to 1/12th scale and would like some setup and tuning tips.
jcrouse is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-30-2003, 01:07 PM   #4603
Tech Elite
 
ChrisP's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Shelby Twp, MI
Posts: 2,045
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Send a message via Yahoo to ChrisP
Default

We have a grand total of 1 Rev 3 at the track...and he does well with it...mind you..he was just as fast with his Corally G3...

The Rev3 felt a little more free with how the rear pod was floating...and has the old school front end...

I seriously thought about it....but in the end...the parts availabilty locally and the number of people to soak information on setup from was just toomuch greater so I got the Knife instead...

I was also shocked to find out that the Rev3 had even worse quality control than the CRC's when it came to making sure that you had all the proper parts in your kit....

Of just a few people that have complained locally on the CRC's 3 were missing complete shock assemblies, 1 was missing damper tubes, mine had the wrong cone washer and 2 different plastic sliders for my damper tubes...but there have been lots of kits sold...

The Rev 3 was missing lots of parts too...and was theonly local kit sold....

Guess it'd work out to a 30-40% defect rate from the local sample for the CRC's and 100% for Speedmerchant
ChrisP is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-30-2003, 01:37 PM   #4604
Tech Champion
 
rayhuang's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Cleveland Heights, Ohio
Posts: 6,511
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to rayhuang
Default

I woudnt say the Rev3 was missing parts as that denotes a QC issue!! It doesnt come with certain parts that is true. But they arent missing!! YOu need two turnbuckles for the steering and some ball-cups and motor screws. I think thats all.


Oh and some damper fluid and shock oil. I guess the idea is anyone buying a Rev3 is a pretty hard core racer and owns most of that stuff anyways. The only hard parts to find on the kit are the Losi medium, light and heavy hydra fluid for the dampners.


Ray
rayhuang is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-30-2003, 01:42 PM   #4605
Tech Elite
 
CypressMidWest's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Central Ohio
Posts: 4,603
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default Re: Mo must be da man

Quote:
Originally posted by jcrouse
Exactly what does Mo do that is so special. I NEED to know. Please let me see the light and take in the wisdom. Seriuosly, I'm new to 1/12th scale and would like some setup and tuning tips.
Mo's performances are the result of meticulous preparation, and constant experimentation with set-up, both with chassis and motor. It doesn't hurt that the guy can flat-out wheel a car as well. When Mo started running with us, he was average at best, two years later he was fast as hell. All because he is so methodical and so driven.

The only real tips he has are to try everything and narrow it down to what WORKS FOR YOU. Believe me, I've had the privelege of watching him work for several seasons now.
__________________
Team CRC, Access Race Place, US Indoor Champs, CD SUPERPRO, RK Designs, Cypress, Founder and lead instructor of the Ian Ruggles Negative Reinforcement Driver Training Program, enroll now.....
CypressMidWest is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 05:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 02:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 08:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 09:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 2 (1 members and 1 guests)
Hugh Jazz
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 11:07 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0