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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 10-26-2003, 01:16 PM   #4561
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stormperson- I don't want to argue with you or anything. But wouldn't installing a stiffer front spring make the car more twitchy? Because the stiffer springs would react quicker.... right? That's why I've experianced since I started. But you have much more experiance (especially in 12th scale) so I may be wrong. But its just something I wanted to bring up because I'm kinda confused. Thanks.
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Old 10-26-2003, 05:02 PM   #4562
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racerdx- A stiffer front spring will not make the car more twichy, it will actually take some of it away, or at least thats my understanding. Also there are never any "always" when it come to set up.

DPowell/coRy - Email eric and ask him to take a pic of his car, since he mounted it nicely on his 12l3. BTW, nice to see on you this thread schnerder (sp, lol).
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Old 10-26-2003, 05:38 PM   #4563
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Default Re: Re: Wire for 12th scale

Quote:
Originally posted by DPowell
D,
I use the GT7 in my Quad12 and I use the wire that came with it, but I did relocate the diode...to my parts box. It is tough enough to find room for the capacitor, much less that damn diode. Seems to work fine in stock, modified might be a different story.
Because of the design of modern speed controls, both the diode and the cap are integral to the operation of ESCs. The cap takes the ugly AC that comes out of the speed control and turns it back into DC that your motor likes better. The diode keeps voltage generated by the motor (when slowing down or transition from forward to neutral or braking) from damaging the FETs in the ESC. You can solder the diode between the wires on the way to the motor, but it really is a lot better electrically if it's right on the tabs. I never had a problem finding a place for a diode or caps on the motors on my original 12L, and the cars I see now don't look much tighter....

-dave
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Old 10-26-2003, 06:08 PM   #4564
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DPowell: I think you're talking about the big square-shaped diode on the GT7, right? I also had trouble with it, not in my 12th scale but in my sedan. The sedan has very little electronics room, and the diode was getting in the way. I talked to a Novak driver and asked whether it was necessary because he wasn't using one. He said it was not, especially in stock or 19T, so I ditched it too. I've run without the diode for a month or two with no problems. It may void the warranty, though, I'm not sure. If you do decide to use it, though, Novak sells wires with the diode built in (no soldering ) so you can switch out everthing and not mess with soldering the diode back into line.
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Old 10-26-2003, 08:55 PM   #4565
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Default Quad12 gearing

DPowell,

Ran the Quad12 today for the first time!! Didn't know what to expect since it's my first 12th scale. Took a couple of laps to dial in the right amount of steering ( always heard 12th scale had lots of steering - now I know!! ) and then it was awesome! The car handled great - I let another guy at the track who runs 12th try it and he thought it was great too.

I do have one problem though. I was trying to run a 1.67 roll-out. With my 1.9 rear tires and 100 tooth spur I should be using a 29t pinion. It won't fit. There is still room to move the motor screws but the motor is hitting the T-bar. Any suggestions?

I also re-wired my GT7 with 16 guage wire. I removed the diode from the old wires and mounted it to the side of the speedo using one of the supplied clips and wire ties. Seems to work well and doesn't take up near as much room.
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Old 10-26-2003, 09:04 PM   #4566
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Default Re: Quad12 gearing

Quote:
Originally posted by stumper1

I do have one problem though. I was trying to run a 1.67 roll-out. With my 1.9 rear tires and 100 tooth spur I should be using a 29t pinion. It won't fit. There is still room to move the motor screws but the motor is hitting the T-bar. Any suggestions?
Stumper1,

I file the T bar top edge so the motor will move up futher. I file the middle T bar mounting nut also, this will allow another 4 to five teeth of pinion to be put on.I hope the attached picture helps.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg tbarclose.jpg (34.9 KB, 196 views)
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Old 10-26-2003, 09:12 PM   #4567
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Big KAT,

Thanks. That's what I figured I would do but didn't know if it was a bad idea to mess with the t-bar. It's gonna be cool to see this thing going faster since it's allready a rocket. I also need to rebuild my diff - I was having too much fun and forgot to check it after the first run -


Can you also tell me how you lube the dampner tubes? I'm not sure if I'm doing it right.

Thanks
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Old 10-26-2003, 09:22 PM   #4568
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I use 5000 to 30000 silicone diff lube for gas cars in mine. 10000 Mugen seems to work well. I normaly squeeze a little into the tube and work it back a forth till it works it way out the bleeder hole.
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Old 10-26-2003, 09:50 PM   #4569
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Default Re: Quad12 gearing

Quote:
Originally posted by stumper1
DPowell,

Ran the Quad12 today for the first time!! Didn't know what to expect since it's my first 12th scale. Took a couple of laps to dial in the right amount of steering ( always heard 12th scale had lots of steering - now I know!! ) and then it was awesome! The car handled great - I let another guy at the track who runs 12th try it and he thought it was great too.

I do have one problem though. I was trying to run a 1.67 roll-out. With my 1.9 rear tires and 100 tooth spur I should be using a 29t pinion. It won't fit. There is still room to move the motor screws but the motor is hitting the T-bar. Any suggestions?

I also re-wired my GT7 with 16 guage wire. I removed the diode from the old wires and mounted it to the side of the speedo using one of the supplied clips and wire ties. Seems to work well and doesn't take up near as much room.
I'm grad you are happy with the car. The viscosity of damper lube will depend on your track layout. Tighter track/thicker lube. On your gearing, would a 28 tooth pinion fit? That's what you needed for a 1.67 roll out.

Try a 96 tooth spur and see if that will help you get to the gear you're looking for.

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Old 10-26-2003, 10:08 PM   #4570
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The biggest I could fit was a 26. 27 was borderline - seemed just a little too tight for me. I guess a smaller spur would solve the problem ( smaller spur = smaller pinion right? ). Is there any advantage to having a larger spur gear?

Also, I'm using TRC tires. I had to trim the lower pod on the left side for clearance. Should I be shimming them out or was trimming the right thing to do?
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Old 10-26-2003, 10:28 PM   #4571
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Quote:
Originally posted by stumper1
The biggest I could fit was a 26. 27 was borderline - seemed just a little too tight for me. I guess a smaller spur would solve the problem ( smaller spur = smaller pinion right? ). Is there any advantage to having a larger spur gear?

Also, I'm using TRC tires. I had to trim the lower pod on the left side for clearance. Should I be shimming them out or was trimming the right thing to do?

You are correct. Smaller spur=smaller pinion. Dropping to a 96 tooth spur along with a 27 tooth pinion would give you the 1.67 rollout you were looking for. There has been alot of debate about spur gears and whether one size has a mechanical advantage over the other. I don't have an answer for you on that subject.

Double check your width. That is where the notch in the lower plate comes in handy. The rear end should be 6 3/4" overall or 3 3/8" from edge of tire to center of notch in both directions.

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Last edited by DPowell; 10-27-2003 at 04:38 PM.
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Old 10-26-2003, 10:37 PM   #4572
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D.P.

Thanks!
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Old 10-27-2003, 10:55 AM   #4573
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Lots of people actually notch their T-Bar so you can fit a bigger pinion with a 100 tooth spur......or you can get the offset ride height blocks
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Old 10-27-2003, 02:08 PM   #4574
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Quote:
Originally posted by stumper1
Also, I'm using TRC tires. I had to trim the lower pod on the left side for clearance. Should I be shimming them out or was trimming the right thing to do?
I trim the tires so they are about flush with the mounting hud. JACO and older TRC's wheels are flush with the mounting hub, the new yellow TRC's are offset some.
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Old 10-27-2003, 03:37 PM   #4575
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I'm pretty new to 1/12 scale...

Is a micro servo the only way to go or is a std. size servo ok?

I have filed/glued the edges to my chassis, should I do this to the rear pod plates also?
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