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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 10-21-2003, 09:28 PM   #4501
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grump,

Sounds like you have pretty much picked up the same setup as me...

I went with the CRC 3.1 red after looking at the Corally SP12M and the Rev3...the Corally was cool for it's simplicity of setup...but parts availability seemed questionable outside of 1 local track here...and I have a preference of stick packs instead of saddles...even though the corally doesn't require a long wire..

The decision to go CRC over Rev3 was based on the requirement of purchasing tires...the CRC came with the proper setup for our local tracks, the lowered pods...to get more life out of the tires...and the fact that they greatly outnumber the Rev3's in my local area...so I get better setup and parts support.

Strangely enough though...the top drivers.....keep experimenting with different cars...new cars, old cars..lots of different things...and they're still the top drivers no matter what chassis they use.

I had a bunch of different people point me towards the JR Z3550..and that is the servo I ended up picking up...not too pricey..but performs well...I'm told (stil building my kit)... ...
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Old 10-21-2003, 09:34 PM   #4502
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Yes one of the reasons for picing the crc was parts availability.
Also It seamed like I could tune the front more.
Now I am new to this so dont jump on me too hard.
Keep the responses coming.
Leaning toward airtronics 94145 for servo.
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Old 10-22-2003, 01:36 AM   #4503
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I tried my L3 last weekend and I want to do more 12th scale this winter..Is the purple/grey tire combo still ok?? Can I use TRC tires with stock L3 hubs?
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Old 10-22-2003, 05:44 AM   #4504
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tuure- Yes and Yes. If you run mod you might want to run double pink fronts, however for stock its a little too much scrubb in the corner and you can acheive the same steering with a dynamic strut front end.

grump- The only adjustment you can make on a dynamic strut that you really would actually do are front springs and maybe reactive vs. static castor blocks, but very doubtful. On the old school you can adjust caster as well as front springs. Before you say "wait!" let me explain:

-the strut front end is molded very poorely. In order to make sure the castor is equal on both sides it is very common to have to use lets say two shims in the back on one side and one shim front and one shim back on the other side. So you really cant adjust castor because you already maxed out the adjustment on one arm trying to make it even with the other. I have heard that CRC machines their own dynamic strut peices so thats why maybe when you look at their driver's cars it might appear different. However, obviously they are NOT included in any of their kits.

Also i cannot emphisize enough how much work it is to correctly build one of these front ends... Normally out of the box everything binds, so you need to ream out pretty much all of the pivot points, polish all of the metal pieces (i actually had to dremel some of the upper arm hingepin every once a while to get it to work smoothly), and properly set caster (using an RPM camber guage just look at the kingpin from the side). However, they do not stay well build for that long and require alot of maitence, also they get out of tweak and other fun stuff when you hit things, its not a good front end at all for someone just starting out in 12th scale, the old style front end is so much simplier, easier, and more consistant, and has just as many things available to tune as you could ever want or need.

As far as parts, the stuff you break on a 12th scale is normally stuff that AE makes, not CRC or Speedmerchant. You dont break a chassis (Sometimes if you dont prep it right you might split it a little, however that can be repaired with super and a clamp), or any parts that are specific to one car. As far as lowered bulkheads, you arent doing yourself a favor. The tire needs so much foam on the tire to be accurately classified at that shore rating, if there is not enough foam it will not be a grey anymore, but something much harder.

I am sorry if i missed some things... But i have posted on this topic ALOT over the past few months, however I realize its impossible almost to use the search feature to find stuff since the thread is so long, lol.
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Old 10-22-2003, 06:18 AM   #4505
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xxxgrumpxxx: My first 1/12th car was the CK. I raced it during the winter on our local indoor carpeted track, and it was an enjoyable experience for me. Although, I didn't expect to do well just starting out in 1/12th I surprised myself and actually won a couple of races, and had a lot of fun. I will be racing 1/12th again this year (after a 1.5 year layoff), and I bought another CK simply because I found the car easy to drive and maintain.

Concerning the servo, I went with the Airtronics 94145Z.

Have Fun!
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Old 10-22-2003, 08:20 AM   #4506
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grump: I'd recommend the servo by KO Propo. I do not have the number with me right now, but I have run both it and the Futaba and must say that the KO is much faster and I think torquier.
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Old 10-22-2003, 08:54 AM   #4507
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As far as servo's there is no question that the KO is the fastest and torqueist, however most people think its way to much (and I am talking abou their factory drivers). You would want to use their servo programmer to tune it down, since in stock its more than enough for mod, and way too much for stock.
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Old 10-22-2003, 09:09 AM   #4508
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Yep some of the dynamic front end parts are whacked right outa the box...I purchased a complete old style front end but have yet to use it as I think I got the dynamic setup pretty good now. I took the 0 & 10 degree upper arm mounts, set them up in the mill and machined them to truth. Also made my own castor shims as I found the OEM ones were up and down by as much as .006 (ie: some were .019, some were .031)

Question: My 12L3 manual and some of people say I should use -1.5 degrees of camber but I have been running about -0.5 and after 4 races my front tires are wearing flat Why should I change ?
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Old 10-22-2003, 09:49 AM   #4509
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Quote:
Originally posted by stormperson
As far as servo's there is no question that the KO is the fastest and torqueist, however most people think its way to much (and I am talking abou their factory drivers). You would want to use their servo programmer to tune it down, since in stock its more than enough for mod, and way too much for stock.
TOO MUCH? Nahhh, the KO 947pds is just right, you'll adjust to the speed rather quickly, AND the precision, and holding power of this servo is SECOND TO NONE. I will never run another servo that's not a KO Digital.
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Old 10-22-2003, 01:11 PM   #4510
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Quote:
Originally posted by DPowell
Pick up a front end(old school or dynamic, your choice), Micro shock, IRS pod plates and 12 ball diff and you're mostly there.
I've got the carbon fiber parts covered and I make T-bars also.
D.P.
So all I need is a front end, pod plates & diff, t'bar mounts (pivot balls) and misc. screws to hold everything together?

If you could give me a list so that I could price it out I'll look into get funds released from the Treasury Department (wife).

I already have spare assembled front ends, and pod plates & diff.

Thanks,

Eric
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Old 10-22-2003, 01:41 PM   #4511
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Quote:
Originally posted by CypressMidWest
TOO MUCH? Nahhh, the KO 947pds is just right, you'll adjust to the speed rather quickly, AND the precision, and holding power of this servo is SECOND TO NONE. I will never run another servo that's not a KO Digital.
I'm very happy with my Multiplex mico digi speed. Although I have never run a KO, so no comparision with that, it is much more accurate than an Airtronics 94145z.

Tower has them as well as limited number of distributors.
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Old 10-22-2003, 02:34 PM   #4512
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Hello,
Just got back into 12th scale and I need some help. I have a Bloody Knife and would like to know:

1. What shock oil and spring should I use for the rear shock?

2. What tire diameter should I start with?

3. What is the body that everyone is running now?

4. What springs and brushes would you recommend for a Monster?


Thanks so much
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Old 10-22-2003, 02:57 PM   #4513
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Quote:
Originally posted by Fike
So all I need is a front end, pod plates & diff, t'bar mounts (pivot balls) and misc. screws to hold everything together?

If you could give me a list so that I could price it out I'll look into get funds released from the Treasury Department (wife).

I already have spare assembled front ends, and pod plates & diff.

Thanks,

Eric
Eric,
I'll send you a PM with more info.

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Old 10-22-2003, 03:04 PM   #4514
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grump i have used the lrp speed control
(quantum ) in twetlh scale and its ok but hands down the gm sx-9 speed control is a better choice for 12 scale not just the size but it has more punch feel especially
in stock really good for 19t it feels like a mod. i have nothing but praise for the sx-9
it got me in the a main at the nats since then i even went to gm speed controlers in my sedans aswell. v12 wsc edition.
i put my lrp 7.1's in my box for spares
the gm's have more punch.
and your choice for servos the airtronics
9145 is perfect . its more than adecuit for the job.
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Old 10-22-2003, 03:05 PM   #4515
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fike when you get the quad twelve let me know and i send you a pm with a starting set up for the car .
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