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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 12-18-2001, 06:13 AM   #436
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Default RC12 L3 diff

i just re built the diff in my 12L3 but it won't build smooth. I rebuilt it several times and is no different. The balls and rings are practically new so i don't think these are the problem. I thought it could possibly the bearing in the right hub binding as the cone washer presses against it but i'm not sure. Please help!
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Old 12-18-2001, 07:52 AM   #437
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did u use the yellow labeled silicon stealth diff lube on both sides of the diff balls? also, make sure that all of your bearings and the ride hight adjusters are in properly.

also i have a quick Q, i bought the cobra AC tire lathe, got the 12th scale arbor's, the front ones fit fine, however the rear ones dont fit snugly onto the wheels, there is a difference in diamiter of about 2-3/16's. i have already used it a few times, however i cannot true rear tires, which is a definite problem. cobra has yet to respond to my emails. what should i do?

also if i can return it, should i get the ofna auto one? since truing tires so far has been alot more of a pain then truing comm's. i plan on racing either nitro sedan or 8th onroad this summer so i would be using it not just for 12th scale, so would the ofna be a good choice? thanks!
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Old 12-18-2001, 10:00 AM   #438
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If you rebuild the diff with fairly new parts and it isnt smooth, replace the bearings in the rear end. The one that the cone washer rides on takes alot of abuse.
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Old 12-18-2001, 12:24 PM   #439
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stormperson: What a timely question...

I don't know anything about the Cobra tire truer. I once had a Cobra stock motor lathe but that was some time ago, and not at all related.

I received my Hudy (Universal) tire lathe yesterday from Stormer Hobbies. I paid a total of $274.00 including shipping. In addition to the truer I had to purchase a new "tool holder" (device used to hold the actual cutter", and an Arbor for Associated 12L wheels. The Hudy truer was $227. The Hudy tool holder was $25 i think, and the arbor is an Ofna arbor and it cost $19. Although, I haven't trued any tires, I did mount both back and front tires turned the unit on, checked the travel of the bit and the bit holder and everything seems "Hudy" percision.

The Ofna tire truer ($249 at Stormer) gets high praise, although, I personally didn't want the added complication of an automated unit (just my perception).

If you can't return the Cobra, maybe you can return the arbor, and use an arbor from another manufacturer???
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Old 12-18-2001, 07:30 PM   #440
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Default Re: Re: G3 Owners

... thanks Trips!...

Quote:
Originally posted by Trips


stik...

Sorry it took this long to answer, I must have missed the question the first time around...

Use enough syrup so that when you rock the pod from side to side it feels smoothly damped all the way. It doesn't take a lot of syrup, just a light coating on the dampener plate (top and bottom surfaces) should do it. there's no need to put a lot of syrup in there.

Trips
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Old 12-18-2001, 11:05 PM   #441
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Default diff and bearing speed tip and still stay lubed!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

guys i have been tring this out for a year and wanted to make sure it was successful before i mentioned it. well when i put my tc3 together last year.i lubed the gears in the gear box and all the bearings with this stuff that is far better than grease or any silicone grease. this lube has ran and ran hard for a year now. i just took out my bearings and the gear box apart.and wow!!!!!! no scaring or sign of wearing at all,this is awesome, i spun the bearings and took the sleve out to see them and still like brand new...so never the less if you don't have this stuff go get some....now. what is it u ask? well, i tell you.... it is liquid teflon.the same stuff you put on your mtn bike , race bike,ect. go to you nearest bike shop.and ask for liquid teflon ,it comes in a black plastic bottle and its called TRI FLOW.and this will last for a long time...so put it on your stock motors bushings, mod motors bearings, in ball cups, ball ends.any where there is friction.DO IT...................and remember who told ya.this tip....your friend and fellow racer. carpet_killa.
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Old 12-19-2001, 11:52 AM   #442
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i got this liquid teflon stuff from paragon. is that just as good? also i have found that it actually makes stuff spin slower right after i used it, but it does do a good job for a long time after
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Old 12-19-2001, 01:53 PM   #443
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i am not sure about paragons stuff. but the TRI FLOW teflon lube i am talking about does not slow nothing. squirt some on your fingers and rub them together.then wipe them off on your old shirt, and rub your fingers again. still slippery!!! this comes in two sizes 1 thats about 4oz bottle and another thats about 12oz. i bought the small one and i still have about half left after a year of using it on every thing.
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Old 12-21-2001, 04:47 AM   #444
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Hi!
can a trinity spashett use a corally tires???
anyone ??please help
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Old 12-21-2001, 07:36 AM   #445
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i dont think so, since i think (not sure though) that the corraly uses e clips to hold on the tires, instead of bolts. i think u can only use trc tires with the trinity.
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Old 12-21-2001, 09:13 AM   #446
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hi
thanks for the indo
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Old 12-22-2001, 05:05 PM   #447
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i was talking to some of the guys at my carpet track, and from 12th scale to touring cars, to oval they all cut down there tires once they get them.

i also noticed that my worn tires (which had been trued as well) which had a much smaller diamter did do much better, and i didnt lift like i had been, or lose any traction where i had been before.

so today i cut pretty much over half of the tire off my brand new set (since i cracked a rear wheel, belive it or not)

anyway i wondered why would jaco make the tires like that, if there is no reason to have the extra tire thickness, and every person who is competative cuts them to begin with?
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Old 12-22-2001, 05:46 PM   #448
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Tires aren't trued to race diameter at the factory because some people who just run on the street or for fun want the most tire life. I took Josh Cyrul's recommendations for 1/12th scale tire diameter off of TTT and the my carpet knife was much better than when I just ran the car for fun with the kit tires. I trued down my race tires and the car was on rails.

I might try the new Parma body. Anyone have any experience with it in comparison to the Protoform Nissan?

To all CRC Carpet Knife racers: I used 100wt oil in the side tubes when I first built the car. Calandra was out of Hydradrive fluid. The car went pretty good, but needed more corner speed. The rear end was too soft. I called Calandra and ordered the red side springs, silver and copper VCS micro springs and the Hydradrive fluid. The car with 40wt in the shock with the copper spring and Hydradrive fluid and red side springs makes a world of a difference compared to the out of box setup. I also tried .018" front springs and the kit supplied .020" are better. Good luck and happy holildays everyone.
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Old 12-22-2001, 06:46 PM   #449
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whats the new parma body?

also what did he say as far as tire recommendations. i am a member of almost every single rc web forum, cept for TTT since there arent different catagories, and its a pain to find stuff, since all of the things go to the bottom so fast.
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Old 12-22-2001, 06:50 PM   #450
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Parma has a new body similar to the Protoform Bentley. They might have pics on www.parmapse.com I would suggest you visit TTT and ask Josh on the "Ask Josh Cyrul Thread" . Of course he recommends the TRC brand. Purple up front and gray rears. You can use Jacos also. Some people like the stiffer TRC rims. See what the fast guys run at your track.
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