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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 08-30-2001, 07:02 PM   #31
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If anyone's interested, I've got a Corally 1/12th pan car SP12G3 with lots of spares & Futaba 132H servo selling for $150 shipped. Email or private message me.
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Old 08-30-2001, 11:33 PM   #32
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what do everybody think about this??

is AE better or Corally better??

in term of their 1/12 cars....

or are they the same?
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Old 08-31-2001, 04:57 AM   #33
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hi, i just got into 12th. my brother and i started a club so that we could race, 'cause there isn't many places here in th UK to race.
we have about 5 people racing in the 12th class which is OK considering we've only been running 3 weeks. loads of people from the TC class are also interested so we may get a few more.

anyway, i brought a second hand 12th car from the same person who i brought the carpet off, it a kyosho r951, and it is the only one in england, it was only brought in as a sample for the UK kyosho distributor, Ripmax. does any one in the USA or the far east know anything about this car? setups would be very useful. i have left the setup as i got it, as the previous owner said it would be a good base setup. the first time i drove it, it handled beautifully, in fact, it was my first time ever with a 12th.
from then on i found that the rear end kept swinging round about mid corner, and found it difficult to control, the car also vered off course down the straight. what is the problem? one way i found to drive the car was to drive very fast, keeping the power on round the corners, although this makes the car understeer a lot. how could i improve on this in the setup??

cheers.
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Old 08-31-2001, 06:36 AM   #34
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TQ: I'm not a seasoned 1/12th scale racer, but you say that your car ran fine in the begining and now there's a problem??? Did you collide with a board or wall? I would check the car over throughly looking for broken or bent components.

When I drove 1/12 scale, it was my impression that driving faster was actually easier than driving slower. When driving slowly, I found the steering to be more responsive than my ability to react. However, at speed the steering didn't seem to react as quickly. That doesn't seem to make sense, but that's what I experienced.
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Old 08-31-2001, 09:22 AM   #35
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Default Re: Re: 1/12 forum

Quote:
Originally posted by TQ
1) i found that the rear end kept swinging round about mid corner, and found it difficult to control,

2) the car also vered off course down the straight. what is the problem?
1. what your duel rate set at. some run there duel rate in the 20-60 range.

2. Make sure you have O deg of toe in. Then check to see if there any slop in the steering linkage.


I have not here of a kyosho r951 1/12th.
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Old 08-31-2001, 09:28 AM   #36
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I'm definitly not an expert and dont know anything about that car but if it has adjustable tweek thats probebly what it is...a car with the tweek not set will not drive straight and the back end will break loose like its cool....MIP makes a tweek station or you can do it manually.
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Old 08-31-2001, 11:52 AM   #37
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Unfortunately, the MIP Tweak Station doesn't work with all 1/12th scale cars. I was not able to use the Tweak Station to adjust my Carpet Knife because the wheel base was to short.

The Niftech (sp?) makes a Tweak Station that will accept 1/12th cars, but I think it cost $80!
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Old 08-31-2001, 12:19 PM   #38
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You can shorten the MIP tweak station Trips knows how to do it.
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Old 09-03-2001, 01:46 AM   #39
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Hi guys,
thanks for all you advice on the car. I raced my kyosho 12th again this sunday, and i've sorted out the problem now.
the body at the rear was too low and very close to the rear wheels, so when the rear pod leaned during the turn the wheels rubbed against the body causing the wheel to slow. i raised the body a little at the rear, and the car felt great!
during the first 2 qualifiers i pulled out early because of my problem, then got the car sorted, ran the third qualifier and picked up 3rd spot in the A- main. At the start of the main i took second on the first bend , then at about 1.5 mins took the lead for the majority of the race, but fell back to second, which i managed to hold until the end of the race.
Once i had sorted out the cars problem i was running about 42 dual rate, which felt good, but i'll run a little more next weekend.
One other thing is i haven't been using tyre additve at all, because the car feels like it has so much grip, do you think i should use it just to get a little more performance from the car?

TAZ_S :
The car came out a couple of years ago, i saw it in a kyosho '96 catalogue. It doesn't use a T-bar for the rear pod, the shock is actually mounted on top of the pod, with a bar going down to the main chassis. it also uses 2 turnbuckles either side of the chassis to hold on the rear pod, i'll try to find some pictures on the net of it, because the design of it is very different to the chassis's used today.
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Old 09-03-2001, 11:19 AM   #40
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I was able to use the MIP tweak station by unscrewing the extension from the center rod and inserting a spare pan car axle into the threaded hole. This allows you to push the center shaft all the way back to the rear crossbar. Voila! It fits your 1/12th scale car and no need to drill out the rear crossbar.
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Old 09-04-2001, 07:39 AM   #41
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TQ: Find a pic of the car or take some of your so we can see it.
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Old 09-04-2001, 07:43 AM   #42
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yeah, i've been looking around on the net but i couldn't find much on the car. There are probably only a few kits around in the whole world!

Last edited by TQ; 09-04-2001 at 07:50 AM.
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Old 09-04-2001, 07:48 AM   #43
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there a few of them. Most what just to get the chassis for it because The car cost $255.
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Old 09-04-2001, 07:51 AM   #44
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i think they also went by the name 'impress' like their F1 car. the rear wheels are also the same (i think)
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Old 09-05-2001, 01:28 AM   #45
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How much front toe should I be running on my carpet knife for asphalt? One other thing: is the paragon tire additive referred to earlier the regular gound FX?
I'll be finishing some 1/12th scale bodies soon.. I'll post pics on my website and let you guys know. I've already done a few for Dennis Racine and others...
Thanks guys,
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