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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 10-19-2003, 07:02 PM   #4471
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fast- I find it extremely hard to believe that those pods (espically the left side) are perfectly true and completely perpendicular to the chassis. epsically if you have gone through those many other parts, lol. Also are your tubes still perfectly smooth without any fluid in them (ie no binding or anything?) If so you are one lucky guy! lol
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Old 10-19-2003, 07:07 PM   #4472
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Hey guys, got to run my Carpet Knife again today, went up 3 more laps from last week and won the A-Main, good day

Someone at the track recommended different front blocks, I am using the angled ones, he recommended the straightones, what will this do for the cars setup???
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Old 10-19-2003, 07:21 PM   #4473
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It will make the car push a little in mid corner.
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Old 10-19-2003, 07:40 PM   #4474
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so instead of the car rotating very agressively in the center of the corner it will smooth that out some????
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Old 10-19-2003, 08:23 PM   #4475
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The caster angle will remain constant despite suspensions compression. Less caster = more low speed steering. So mid corner, the caster angle will stay at 2 degrees (or whatever you set it at) for the entire corner.

It will push more mid corner. Whether or not that smooths things out depends upon driving style and all the other settings too.

Personally, I like more mid corner steering, a little less on entrance and exit.
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Old 10-19-2003, 08:24 PM   #4476
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I've heard that the angled suspension blocks on the AE front suspension make the car more aggressive under braking. That's why many people use them in the mod class. For stock, I've seen people use either the angled or flat, but some say the flat is better for stock racing.
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Old 10-19-2003, 09:16 PM   #4477
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The caster angle will remain constant despite suspensions compression. Less caster = more low speed steering. So mid corner, the caster angle will stay at 2 degrees (or whatever you set it at) for the entire corner.

It will push more mid corner. Whether or not that smooths things out depends upon driving style and all the other settings too.

Personally, I like more mid corner steering, a little less on entrance and exit.
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Old 10-19-2003, 09:52 PM   #4478
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Default IRS Axle

Spyderx-

I have it assembled that way but still have one question. On the outer hub which way does first flanged bearing go? right now I have the flange on the hub side so the other side is inside the spur gear. Should the flange point out on both sides of the hub? If so what keeps the spur gear centered?

Also, no one answered the cone shaped or "belleville" washer question. Do I need one?

Thanks for the help
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Old 10-20-2003, 03:30 AM   #4479
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Quote:
Originally posted by Graphitedust
A friend just gave me an IRS axel assembly, which I haven't tried yet. I did notice a lack of a belleville cone washer. Does this axel NOT require the cone washer, with the tension on the diff coming solely from the diffnut?
I Believe IRS uses a one piece "diff cone spacer" Tower has them in short and long. I had to use the short one on my stock 12L3 axle and is alot more durable than the stock AE washer/cone. Here is the link.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXR009&P=7
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXR010&P=7
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Old 10-20-2003, 04:34 AM   #4480
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"I've heard that the angled suspension blocks on the AE front suspension make the car more aggressive under braking."

You use brakes?

Yes when the front suspension is compressed to its fullest extent, you will have 2 less caster (more negative) for more agressive steering in the middle of the corner. It would be the same if you could brake and compress the front end, but braking in the corner is not a good thing anyhow. Braking going straight would not make much difference anyhow. I don't use brakes and this is only after asking the pros that win at the track I race at. When I am hooked up right, I don't need them.

David Root
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Old 10-20-2003, 05:54 AM   #4481
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Default IRS large ring axle

stumper1: Both flanged bearings insert (small end) into the hub, so that both bearings are flush with the hub. A separate bearing is used for the spur.

Here's the order from the drive hub:

- diff ring
- Spur (with bearing in the center, and 12 diff balls around the outter edge)
- diff ring
- flanged bearing (small end away from spur gear)
- hub
- flanged bearing (small end toward the spur gear)
- IRS diff cone (small end toward spur gear)
- diff nut

No belleville washer is used!

Be sure to sand the diff rings using 600 grit sand paper.

I got the "D" ring version of this axle (no pinning) about 2 weeks ago, and IMO this is probably the best upgrade you can have on your 1/12th car. With the diff locked, the diff action is as smooth as butter. There's absolutely no bummpy feeling in the diff action. I could never achieve this using the standard diff!

Thanks Mike D.!
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Old 10-20-2003, 06:34 AM   #4482
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Junkie: I'm happy you got one of the 6 smooth sets of aluminum tubes that have EVER been made. Unfortunately they're heavier, and most require a fair amount of "smoothing out" to get them to work right. The Speedmerchant tubes don't compare because the Speedmerchant tubes are better.
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Last edited by CypressMidWest; 10-20-2003 at 06:41 AM.
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Old 10-20-2003, 09:50 AM   #4483
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Quote:
Originally posted by CypressMidWest
Junkie: I'm happy you got one of the 6 smooth sets of aluminum tubes that have EVER been made.
You mean 8 sets, mine have worked fine from day one! Good thing we live in America, and therfore everyone is entitled to his/her opinion.

Eric
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Old 10-20-2003, 10:12 AM   #4484
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Make that 13 mine and my buddies where all smooth from the get go.... that's 3 sets from me!!!LOL Cypress just likes to dis all of the stuff I own!!!LOL
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Old 10-20-2003, 11:21 AM   #4485
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Does anyone have a good setup for a Chameleon 2 motor? I'm looking for brush, spring and rollout recommendations for a 60' by 60' track with high bite and alot of twisty sections.

Thanks
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