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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!


BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)


Enneti (Xceed)

As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.


If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick

  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020

  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


Reflex Racing/RSD:


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Old 10-18-2003, 07:13 AM   #4456
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Originally posted by TigeRyan
Speed control question....I know this is a question that is open to wide opinion, but I will ask anyone, what is a good ESC for 1/12th right now I have a dually in mine just cause thats all I had available...
GM SX-9, LRP Quantum Comp. or QC2, Keyence Zero-V Extreme, KO VFS 2000
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Old 10-18-2003, 07:58 AM   #4457
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I've seen information on a new version of the SX-9 that will be comign out..unfortunately I can't remember which site I had seen this posted on

In the meantime however, it seems as though GM is doing an inventory adjustment on the current generation and there are some VERY attractive prices to be had for the SX-9.

I'm only just getting back into electric myself, and part of what prompted the move was that I was debating whether or not I wanted to re-invest in the gear required...esc, batteries, kit, etc...

Then I heard that one of the local shops was running a special for brand new SX-9's for $125!!!!!!! $125 may not sound like the greatest of bargains...until you consider....that's in CANADIAN funds

I couldn't resist...I bought the ESC just in case....a week later I had a JR3550 and Novak XXL....3 days after that a Fantom 410 stock motor...and just this past Tuesday I picked up my Bloody Knife...

I found a set of 4 matched 1.182's on the shelf at my LHS.....now all I have to do is finish assembly before my wife discovers what I've done

I've heard that there were some quirks with the SX-9 that someone else can get into...for my application..and especially at this price, I wasn't able to find anything else that was even close to its performance..

Couple that with the SIZE of the SX-9 and it looks like a sweet fit for 12th scale.
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Old 10-18-2003, 12:11 PM   #4458
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Thanks for the help. I'll go 64 pitch or get the pod things.
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Old 10-18-2003, 05:22 PM   #4459
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TigeRyan: I would recommend the Quantum Competition 2 by LRP when it comes out. I have the first Quantum and it works well for 1/12 scale because of how light and small it is (my car actually needs weight added to it to be legal). I'm not sure about the Keyence or GT7 because they are so big in comparison (especially the GT7 ). Both are great escs (I have a GT7 in my SD) but I feel they are too large for 1/12 scale. Of course, no one knows how good the new Quantum 2 is yet (I think), but assuming it is better than the original (which is also good) then it is probably the best choice out there.
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Old 10-18-2003, 09:09 PM   #4460
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Default IRS axle

I need help with the assembly of an IRS large ring axle. I bought the IRS set ( axle / hubs / spur etc ) and it came with no instructions. I am new at the whole 12th scale thing. Can anyone tell me the correct order to assemble it? Also I assume the diff cone that came with it goes small side in - is this right? It also did not come with a "belleville" washer like the associated axle. Am I supposed to use one?

I built a 12L3 for my son and the diff seems alot smoother. That may just be because it's broke in but it seems like it was a lot smoother from the beginning. Before I try anything else I want to make sure I have assembled it correctly.

Thanks for the help!!
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Old 10-18-2003, 09:42 PM   #4461
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The new CRC pods are really trick..... strong + light....

The new ones have "CRC" engraved in them. I think they retail for $29 for lowered left + right set.
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Old 10-18-2003, 09:49 PM   #4462
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just noticed someone dissin the CRC tubes... confusing..

I have had both the plastic and aluminum tubes... the CRC tubes are super smooth, look great, and "overlap" so that the sticky syrup is hidden from dirt and tire dust. The Bolink made SM tubes dont even compare.
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Old 10-19-2003, 04:11 AM   #4463
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Got a link for those lowered pods?

D Root
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Old 10-19-2003, 04:30 AM   #4464
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Junkie- One of the problems with the CRC tubes is that they do overlap. When the car has extreme suspenion travel (like in a crash) the tubes will basically bottom out on the ballcup and dent. Bolink does not make SM's damper tubes anymore. The new tubes are all machined, so they are all identical and there are no bad ones in a batch.

And BTW, no matter what tubes you use, make sure to put the part of the tube that exposes the plunger on the inside of the car not on the outside. (so have the plunger connected to the chassis on the motor top plate, and the 'cover' part of the tube mounted on the tweak plate.
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Old 10-19-2003, 05:28 AM   #4465
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Default Re: IRS axle

Originally posted by stumper1
I need help with the assembly of an IRS large ring axle. I bought the IRS set ( axle / hubs / spur etc ) and it came with no instructions.
From the drive hub:
Drive hub
Diff ring
no flange bearing
spur gear (put diff balls in outer 12 holes only)
diff ring
bearing in wheel hub
wheel hub
bearing in wheel hub
diff cone, small side on bearing
diff nut

If your diff is not smooth, check in this order:
outer bearing
diff balls
diff rings

The outer bearing is the most common cause of a notchy diff.

Good luck
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Old 10-19-2003, 09:32 AM   #4466
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A friend just gave me an IRS axel assembly, which I haven't tried yet. I did notice a lack of a belleville cone washer. Does this axel NOT require the cone washer, with the tension on the diff coming solely from the diffnut?
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Old 10-19-2003, 11:55 AM   #4467
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I have an old switchblade that has tubes, theyve got a spring built right into them. Ive got to say, theyre really trick. Im thinking about mounting them up on my L3.
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Old 10-19-2003, 03:48 PM   #4468
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my CRC dampner tubes and pod plates have been on 5 different cars since i got them last Nov. so far, i have had none of the problems mentioned in above posts.

i have done some SUPER hard crashes, but most damage was from some hideous hits by others on my car.

so far in one year broke: 3 chassis, 5 t-bars, 1 bottom rear plate, 1 CK side link.

the CRC aluminum pods and tubes have been bullet proof for me.

does CRC make their own aluminum stuff? heard rumor IRS makes these parts for CRC?
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Old 10-19-2003, 03:52 PM   #4469
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Originally posted by RC Paperboy
I saw some at www.darksidems.com, I havent tried them, but they looked cool, and theyre cheaper than the others. THeyre made by "Darkside Motorsports". Theyre under products, scroll down to the "300" section.
the link won't open? was curious about what they make for 1/12th?
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Old 10-19-2003, 04:28 PM   #4470
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Originally posted by fast-ho-cars
the link won't open? was curious about what they make for 1/12th?
Try this link
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