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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 10-15-2003, 12:17 PM   #4411
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Quote:
Originally posted by fReShJiVe
yes, if you change the rear pod plate you could use the assoc. t-bar but not with the stock Kawada rear pod plate...yes front end will also fit but you have to change the whole front end...none of the front end is compatible with each other maybe the turnbukle and the upper arm ball end....so with all the changes done it really isnt a 12L...maybe by looks and performance it is
Cool, the original question I was answering was whether or not the Riemon M300 Chassis could be used with the stock AE pieces, and by your description it can.
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Old 10-15-2003, 01:06 PM   #4412
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Default quad 12

I am trying to get ahold of the guy who makes the quad 12... any suggestions? I have emailed and PMed him...


if anyone has info.... drop me a line..

KB
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Old 10-15-2003, 01:10 PM   #4413
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he and his wife are on vacation kieth i run for him do you need help with something.
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Old 10-15-2003, 01:15 PM   #4414
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that is a reiman chassis and the kawada and the majority of the jap manufactures especially yoko use all the associated running gear for the exception of the rear pods which they do for the reason to identify the cars.
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Old 10-15-2003, 03:27 PM   #4415
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Quote:
Originally posted by racerdx6
When I accelerate from a slow speed or from a dead stop my car spins to the right. Usually not very helpful when you make a mistake and slow way down and than accelerate too hard and swing into the boards again . I was thinking I could try going up on a pinion tooth, or mabey try green springs on both sides of my motor. Currently I'm running a monster stock with red +/ green - spring combo. Very fast. But the acceleration is almost too good. What do you guys think?

I have an AE 12l3 and mine goes left when punched at slow speed or from a stop

I have checked and rechecked my tweak settings on an MIP Tweak tool and with a digital height gauge on a dead flat surface plate and it appears good. I use very little preload on the tweak screws, just enough to hold the T-Bar.

Scratchin my noggin here....everything looks good so I don't get it why it darts left

Could it be chassis flex ??
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Old 10-15-2003, 03:47 PM   #4416
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Quote:
Originally posted by SteveG
I have an AE 12l3 and mine goes left when punched at slow speed or from a stop

I have checked and rechecked my tweak settings on an MIP Tweak tool and with a digital height gauge on a dead flat surface plate and it appears good. I use very little preload on the tweak screws, just enough to hold the T-Bar.
One last thing to check is the motor wires, they can cause a tweak or get pinched between the chassis and body. Good luck!
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Old 10-15-2003, 03:58 PM   #4417
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If it turns under acceleration, you might have the punch level set to aggresive. Or just on the throttle more smothly.

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Old 10-15-2003, 04:26 PM   #4418
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I dont know much about t-bar cars but here are my guesses:

-try replacing the t-bar just incase its is soft or something

-back out the tweak screws

-make sure that there is no undampened uptravel in the front end, or anything wrong with the front end. Strut front ends are hard to bulid properly so that the castor is equal on both sides and so that nothing binds, they also get dirty easily, so that might be it.

There are alot of things that it could be, I would go step by step and try to eliminate as many things as possibe.
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Old 10-15-2003, 07:00 PM   #4419
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Storm-
Remember what was tweaking my car last weekend and causing it to spin going into corners... rear ride height. Make sure your rear ride height is about 3-4mm, no more. Make sure the car is tweaked right. Check your tire diameter and make sure they're the same.

When a 12th scale is setup right, you should be able to punch it from a stop and it won't go anywhere but straight.
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Old 10-15-2003, 07:25 PM   #4420
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That was interesing wasnt it? lol

Spyderx makes a very good point, before doing anything else make sure everything is mechincaly correct and reasonably set up, since silly stuff like a few mills of ride heigh can REALLY throw off handling.

There can be a thousand things that could be causing a problem, however normally when you fix the basic stuff the car gets alot better.
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Old 10-15-2003, 08:39 PM   #4421
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Hey All,

Just getting into 1/12th scale...so I hope you don't mind some newbie questions...

I bought a CRC Carpet Knife 3.1 and I love the car, thing is handling fairly well, have a slight oversteer to the right, but I think I know where that is...

My biggest question is, I can't seem to find the correct gearing for the car...I am running indoors on a fairly large carpet track using 19 turn motors...The car has a 100 tooth spur in it...I know tire diameter plays into the gearing, but I don't have the car in front of me so if someone could give me a ballpark and I will adjust from there...

Thanks in advance,
TigeRyan
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Old 10-15-2003, 09:23 PM   #4422
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depends on tire diameter. go to the bottom of page 146 for a rollout chart.
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Old 10-15-2003, 09:49 PM   #4423
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Ok, I am looking at the chart, my tires are 1.880" with a 100 spur...that leaves me with 6 combinations...so where do I start?
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Old 10-15-2003, 11:22 PM   #4424
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I'd start with a 28 or 29, right around where you'd start with a stock motor.
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Old 10-16-2003, 12:20 AM   #4425
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Hello !

I decided to try 1:12th scale and bought a RC12 car. I plan to go with 4 cells and a 12 turn motor.
What servo would you recommend for 12th scale. (mid range price) ?
What tires should I buy to get a good starting point on carpet ?
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