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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!


BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)


Enneti (Xceed)

As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.


If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick

  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020

  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


Reflex Racing/RSD:


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Old 12-14-2001, 11:11 AM   #421
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Default Re: G3 Owners

Originally posted by stik
How much Rear Damper Syrup should I put? I've just rebuilt them and I don't know how much is needed...

Sorry it took this long to answer, I must have missed the question the first time around...

Use enough syrup so that when you rock the pod from side to side it feels smoothly damped all the way. It doesn't take a lot of syrup, just a light coating on the dampener plate (top and bottom surfaces) should do it. there's no need to put a lot of syrup in there.

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Old 12-14-2001, 05:17 PM   #422
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The original question on Kawada's 1/12.

Is it the 'M300'?

I don't have a picture of it. The front suspension (except the strut of course) was made of soft plastic yellow in color. The ball cups were also soft plastic yellow in color. The wheels were soft plastic. The screws that came with the kit were one of the heaviest I'd seen. The rear 3 shocks were like Delta's. But M300 somehow still used the fibreglass T plate. Delta did not have a T plate, it used 2 joints. One for side-to-side and the other for rear-to-front independent travel.

The M300 was OK when it's brand new but the parts got progressively softer and the handling became pretty inconsistent.

I think Kawada later released a version where the plastics were black in color and harder in consistency. The front wheels were also pretty unique in that it could not use the usual 1/12 truer adapter. It never quite caught on.

Last edited by rcethilon; 12-14-2001 at 05:28 PM.
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Old 12-15-2001, 07:48 AM   #423
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Guys, I am thinking of buying 1/12 6 cell car! Do you have any feedback or suggestion on the 1/12 car from the following company: Team Associated, Yokomo, Trinity, Yokomo, HPI, Tech Racing and Corally??
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Old 12-15-2001, 08:32 AM   #424
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CRC has the six pack. I don't have it, but I do have their 4 cell car and i think its awesome!!!
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Old 12-15-2001, 08:45 AM   #425
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Thanks KansasRacer! any links to their site?
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Old 12-15-2001, 11:02 AM   #426
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Last edited by Modena AL; 12-17-2001 at 10:31 AM.
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Old 12-17-2001, 07:48 AM   #427
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I did pretty well again this weekend winning the A main again. Had a really wierd thing happen though... One of my diff rings broke??? After the 2nd Qualifier, I got back to the pit and realized that the diff seem rather gritty. So I remove the wheel, then the spur gear, and look at the diff ring only to see (or not see) about 1/3 of the diff ring gone!?!?!?

On a positive note, after 3 weeks of racing, I'm still using the same set of wheels. In years gone by, I remember chunking tires to the point where I was ready to give up. Right now, my tires don't have a single blemish (knock on wood). That's after 3 weeks of 3 eight minute qualifiers + main, and practice. Now that's what I call cost effective. Now if I had a set of the new lowered rear bulk heads, I could probably wear the tire down to the plastic.
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Old 12-17-2001, 10:30 AM   #428
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Should I get a 4 cell CRC or should I get a 6 cell CRC? I can't decide.
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Old 12-17-2001, 11:37 AM   #429
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Well.......we had our first run on our new Ozite this weekend....what a blast...we have a 36' by 60' track....we started with 4 cell stock and found there just was not enough power to catch up if you made a mistake....so we went to chameleons....it was bettter...we may have been undergeared a bit...but wow....what fun........
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Old 12-17-2001, 03:59 PM   #430
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Default TIRES

Do I really have to pay $22 for a pair of foams Is their any where where they are cheaper?
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Old 12-17-2001, 04:53 PM   #431
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Buy what they race in your area. They race 4 cell stock at my track...
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Old 12-17-2001, 05:30 PM   #432
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Default Re: TIRES


That's what they go for in my area too. They do last quite a while as long as you set your front camber so they wear evenly, so that helps take the sting out of the price. Well, unless you chunk 'em. If you compare to sedan tires, you'll spend $6 for a pair of wheels, $4 for inserts and $10 for tires. It adds up to about the same money but the foams last longer.
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Old 12-17-2001, 05:59 PM   #433
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We dont race it here.....we're trying to get the class started next year. When I went down to regionals they ran 4 cell stock...but i know in other areas they run 6 cell. I was wondering which is more popular so i can decide which one i should get. I might juts get a 6 cell and play it safe.
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Old 12-17-2001, 08:41 PM   #434
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Default using a standard size servo

hey there,
i was wondering if its possible to use a standard size servo instead of the mini servo? i'm pretty sure it is but i wanted to make sure before I take the plunge into buying a 1/12... I have many standard size servos that i could use instead of getting a brand new mini servo.
thanks in advanced.
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Old 12-18-2001, 05:10 AM   #435
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KINGZJ: You can save a couple of dollars by buying your tires mail order. Superior Hobbies sells Proline Jaco purple & grays for $15.99/ pair. Even adding the cost of shipping you come out cheaper. http://www.superiorhobbies.com/index2.html

You can also save money on tires by purchasing the foam doughnuts and mounting them on old wheels. Purple foam doughnuts cost $11.95/pair!!! However, if you add in the cost of truing, the price rises a little (unless you have your own truer).
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