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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!


BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)


Enneti (Xceed)

As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.


If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick

  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020

  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


Reflex Racing/RSD:


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Old 10-07-2003, 08:41 AM   #4306
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Originally posted by rayhuang
MikeD-are you going to come for the Thursday night club race before the Halloween Classic? Should be a fun race!!!
rayhuang - That's the plan. I may just race 12th scale so I don't spend the practice day Friday rebuilding the sedan.
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Old 10-07-2003, 09:35 AM   #4307
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Originally posted by rayhuang
YEah-that was me. My race was so poor at that I turned my car around to marshall you off the board and-of course-my body hooked your rear wheel well and we were stuck. Then Tony marshalled me first-not you. It was ugly. Of course i could marshall you a 100x in practice with my car- but in the race-try it once and we start mating-as you say!! Murphy's law!!!

But the take-out was NOT intentional-I dont even remember how it started. Maybe you were lapping me and I slid wide and hit you???!?!?!? I dont recall.
Don't lie Ray!!! We all know you were trying to clear the way for your star driver/announcer to come through and take the B main win for Diamond Northern!

Too bad I couldn't do it.
Team CRC, PowerPush, Access Race Place, US Indoor Champs, CD SUPERPRO, RK Designs, TxDSkingraphix, Cypress, Founder and lead instructor of the Ian Ruggles Negative Reinforcement Driver Training Program, enroll now.....
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Old 10-07-2003, 10:56 AM   #4308
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Default Re: Re: 12L3 Front Hinge Pins Question

Originally posted by DPowell
Yokomo has the hinge pins you are looking for. They are used on the YRX12. I think they are titanium.

Also look at tower hobies. There are pins made my HGI. They will greatly smooth out the front a-arm movement. You won't need to ream them out to make the little bend free and without slop. Much easier to make consistent right to left.

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Old 10-07-2003, 12:51 PM   #4309
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Ray- what did you rebuild on your car to improve your lap times that much? I can think of cleanin out the bearings, rebuilding the diff, and the center shock. But are there any other things you did? I suppose checking your tweak and camber often are probably pretty helpful too.
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Old 10-07-2003, 01:20 PM   #4310
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Guys is CA the best way to repair cracked Jaco rims??
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Old 10-07-2003, 01:46 PM   #4311
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Originally posted by akrcracer
Guys is CA the best way to repair cracked Jaco rims??
CA will work but it is brittle. Another hit and it will break again. Best thing to do is not hit stuff.

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Old 10-07-2003, 01:48 PM   #4312
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No, buy new ones. About $4.00 a pair. Assuming you have a truer.

If you do glue them. Make sure you rebalance the wheels. (you do balance your wheels, don't you?) If you don't balance, you'll be suprised at how much smoother the car is at speed.

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Old 10-07-2003, 02:46 PM   #4313
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ca will work fine just use kicker and build up a fair amount of glue around the crack and use kicker to speed it up youre going to have to balance the wheel but it should work fine it will take mild hits just not full noodle side smacks against the wall!
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Old 10-07-2003, 06:29 PM   #4314
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What is the optimal starting diameter for front and rear foams to true them down to? Thanks to anyone who can answer.
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Old 10-07-2003, 06:34 PM   #4315
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1.80" front 1.90" rear is good. 1.75" front 1.85" rear is good if you get free tires
A mutually re-enforcing cascade of failure

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Old 10-07-2003, 06:37 PM   #4316
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Originally posted by racerdx6
Ray- what did you rebuild on your car to improve your lap times that much? I can think of cleanin out the bearings, rebuilding the diff, and the center shock. But are there any other things you did? I suppose checking your tweak and camber often are probably pretty helpful too.
Rebuilt the entire front end. Took the arms off, threw away the paper shims and started over. made sure axles were at exactly the same height, checked camber and caster on a RPM gauge.

Replaced old front springs with new ones.

Replaced the worn out pivot ball socket-then recentered the rear pod and set the side links.

Pulled out the axle, replaced a bad bearing, recentered rear axle. I was off-shims must have hit the floor on some rebuild over the last few months and I didnt know it.

Reset tweak screws.

Dropped batteries in a little deeper into battery box (I ran the car last year with Pani UMH and never recut for GP3300).

Repolished kingpins and all balls (that sounds so bad).

And of course reset the toe links, radio, etc. Just fine tuned it.

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Old 10-07-2003, 07:29 PM   #4317
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I have come across a dozen sets of two bolt wheels/tires on the cheap. Does anyone have a recommendation as to who still has an 2 bolt axel setup? I emailed IRS and all they have left is left hubs. Tower has a 12L axel, but no hubs. Does anyone know of anyone still making/stocking two bolt stuff? Does anyone know what Associated still offers? There website is pretty weak for 12 scale info..... Car is an Associated 12L3....
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Old 10-07-2003, 07:33 PM   #4318
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I bet you can still get a 2-bolt axle from Niftech. I too have a BOX fll of mint conditon 2-bolt rear tires and rims in perfect shape!!!
or at least I think I still have it.
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Old 10-07-2003, 07:40 PM   #4319
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Davidl -- Thanks!! for the help!

Originally posted by davidl
cubic - some great 1/12 scale drivers have won big races with the 6 pack in 4 cell. Just saddle up two batts on each side in the rear locations. The RC12LC/3 does the same thing. Good luck and don't be affraid to ask for help.
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Old 10-07-2003, 08:17 PM   #4320
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I have a 6pack that I am putting a old school front end on.
I found out I have to also change the way I mount the servo. I heard that I have to take the stock plastic mounts, turn them around and mount the servo as low and flat to the deck as possible. Is this accurate? Does anyone have pics of their 12th scale with old school front end on it?

now since I had to lower the servo, I had to flip the servo saver... now when I am going to turn the car left, the ball cup attached to the servo hits the servo and I am not going to get as much steering that way as appose to the other way.

Can someone help me out here?
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