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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!


BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)


Enneti (Xceed)

As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.


If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick

  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020

  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


Reflex Racing/RSD:


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Old 10-06-2003, 08:27 PM   #4291
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xracer what was your set up? and what class you ran in!
also glad to hear you did well. and you could see what i was saying the car is just plain awsome.i would like to see more guys driving the quad 12 .


Pemberton / R1 / All out motorsports / Team Power Push
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Old 10-07-2003, 12:59 AM   #4292
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Default Gearing PT motors

Hi, have anyone tried the new PT motor? If so what are your experiences? I am most interested in 12-turns, do you use doubles, tripples???? what timing, what gearing? what springs, do you cut the brushes?
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Old 10-07-2003, 04:38 AM   #4293
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Default Re: Tire truer

Originally posted by ultra_low_life
What tire truer you guys are using?

I've been using a friend's Hudy tire lathe (the lower priced tire lathe), and it works very well.

I figure I'll need to have a lathe eventually. I'd like to see the Integy tire lathe http://integy.automated-shops.com/cg...02103422340.ea in person to find out about its quality. The price certainly is right.
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Old 10-07-2003, 06:52 AM   #4294
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Anyone know the poundage of the silver vcs spring that comes in with the rev3? Or at least, is it softer or stiffer than the black(17lbs) spring that I am supposed to run?

Also this is my first non-tbar car... can someone walk me through how to setup the side springs... (ie how much preload? should i leave a gap of space between the ball and the spring? all the lil stuff like that)
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Old 10-07-2003, 07:08 AM   #4295
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Default 12L3 Front Hinge Pins Question

I have a pretty stock RC12L3. Has anyone seen or does anyone have a source for front hinge pins that are held in by c-clips as opposed to the standard pins with a 90 degree bend?
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Old 10-07-2003, 07:12 AM   #4296
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some racers here in aus drilled a hole in the caster brace thingo-me-jig .. (sorry best i could do... the bit that the pin goes through) and then installed a grub screw, it has done the trick for them.. it might be a cheaper option compared to buyin new pins.. IMO the pins would b too small for c-clips anyways.. but i dunno??

Rob Sotrey
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Old 10-07-2003, 07:23 AM   #4297
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Default TLC

Hey all,

I suppose everyone knows the 12th scale is all about maintenance and attention to detail. Well-this past week I worked on it and worked on it (3-4 hours of work-maybe??). Went to the track Sunday-used the same tired old motor (13, 14 runs on same brushes now), same batteries as always-and went 0.6 faster per lap consistently. Also went from being 0.7 second behind the TQ's fastest lap to 0.4 sec behind. So its all getting a lot better now.

Also-my last 5 or 6 laps are about 1 sec quicker now than before the rebuild. So all this work has also helped the cars efficiency as well. It works so well-the batteries are not getting killed.
Just a FYI to those who make excuses to not work on there 12th scales (like me the last few months).

Its like getting $$$ higher voltage, longer runtime batteries $$$ for the price of some of your time!!!
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Old 10-07-2003, 07:38 AM   #4298
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Originally posted by Cracker78
Rev. 3 Instructions Confusion...

I am building my first rev3 and I have a question about the servo saver/turn buckle location. The instructions say "Mount the tie-rod ends to the front of the servo saver..." Does this mean the ball ends on the servo saver point forward? If I do this and have the front of my servo case aligned with the rear of the front arm mounts, my steering tierods are like this / \ however if the instructions mean to have the ball ends point rearward then my tierods will look like this - - which is what i *think* they mean. Anyone know the answer for sure?
Heres a pic of my old car. It shows the tie-rods really well.

Attached Images
File Type: jpg rev3 toe links1.jpg (71.8 KB, 239 views)
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Old 10-07-2003, 07:43 AM   #4299
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Hi Guys,

Would really appreciated if you could help me on this one,

I've got a CRC 6 pack, but recently the hype seems to be 4 cell mod.......... , could I possibly run 4 cell like (2-2) on each side and still get it to handle well almost as well as a CK or any 4 cell car, cos I dont really want to buy a new car

Thanks Y'all!!!
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Old 10-07-2003, 07:45 AM   #4300
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Some of the racers do this alot of the time,it works very well.
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Old 10-07-2003, 07:59 AM   #4301
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Casey - good job. I can't wait to hear the noise from the east when you are in victory circle.

Ray - thanks for the kind words. I had a great time. And it was OKAY when you and I, I think it was you, went into mating mode with 2 minutes remaining. I had to laugh at "Slim" for the marshalling effort. But, he did it, so that is OKAY, too. I know I am not Pulfer quick like I used to be, so I can't say anything about the marshalls. See you at Halloween.

cubic - some great 1/12 scale drivers have won big races with the 6 pack in 4 cell. Just saddle up two batts on each side in the rear locations. The RC12LC/3 does the same thing. Good luck and don't be affraid to ask for help.
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Old 10-07-2003, 08:24 AM   #4302
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Default Re: 12L3 Front Hinge Pins Question

Originally posted by jcrouse
I have a pretty stock RC12L3. Has anyone seen or does anyone have a source for front hinge pins that are held in by c-clips as opposed to the standard pins with a 90 degree bend?
Yokomo has the hinge pins you are looking for. They are used on the YRX12. I think they are titanium.

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Old 10-07-2003, 08:26 AM   #4303
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YEah-that was me. My race was so poor at that I turned my car around to marshall you off the board and-of course-my body hooked your rear wheel well and we were stuck. Then Tony marshalled me first-not you. It was ugly. Of course i could marshall you a 100x in practice with my car- but in the race-try it once and we start mating-as you say!! Murphy's law!!!

But the take-out was NOT intentional-I dont even remember how it started. Maybe you were lapping me and I slid wide and hit you???!?!?!? I dont recall.
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Old 10-07-2003, 08:28 AM   #4304
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Originally posted by rayhuang
But the take-out was NOT intentional-I dont even remember how it started. Maybe you were lapping me and I slid wide and hit you???!?!?!? I dont recall.
I've raced with davidl enough to know it was probably his fault.
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Old 10-07-2003, 08:35 AM   #4305
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MikeD-are you going to come for the Thursday night club race before the Halloween Classic? Should be a fun race!!!
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