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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 01-14-2015, 04:23 PM   #41911
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Does anyone happen to know which IRS diff has the dimensions more similar to the AE 12R5? The 3mm offset (part no IRS2136) or the regular one (part no IRS2132)?
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Old 01-14-2015, 05:03 PM   #41912
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Originally Posted by CristianTabush View Post
Does anyone happen to know which IRS diff has the dimensions more similar to the AE 12R5? The 3mm offset (part no IRS2136) or the regular one (part no IRS2132)?
3mm offset is for modern brushless pods. The standards are for brushed pods (12L4).
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Old 01-14-2015, 09:43 PM   #41913
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Thanks so much!
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Old 01-15-2015, 09:18 AM   #41914
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I just picked up my first 1/12 pan car last night...an old CRC Gen X (but it looks like it might be a mix of Gen X and Gen XL parts by looking at press photos of the two). It has the micro left pod plate like the XL, but vertical plastic servo mounts like the X.

I bought the car since it was available from a local club member, and it was cheap and came with spares.

It also came with CRC magenta front tires and Yellow rears (3 pairs of each). Are these a good starting point for tire compounds for medium traction carpet and 13.5 blinky?

I don't plan on being competitive with the car, I'm just wanting a 3rd class to run a bigger events when there is a lot of time between TC Stock and VTA classes. I was told that running a pan car would make me a better touring car driver.

My driving skills are somewhat lacking since I've only been in the hobby for less than a year. I usually finish right around mid-pack at every event I'm at. With that said, what would be a good forgiving body that doesn't push like a dump truck?

Any and all help/info is appreciated!
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Old 01-15-2015, 10:16 AM   #41915
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DBM View Post
I just picked up my first 1/12 pan car last night...an old CRC Gen X (but it looks like it might be a mix of Gen X and Gen XL parts by looking at press photos of the two). It has the micro left pod plate like the XL, but vertical plastic servo mounts like the X.

I bought the car since it was available from a local club member, and it was cheap and came with spares.

It also came with CRC magenta front tires and Yellow rears (3 pairs of each). Are these a good starting point for tire compounds for medium traction carpet and 13.5 blinky?

I don't plan on being competitive with the car, I'm just wanting a 3rd class to run a bigger events when there is a lot of time between TC Stock and VTA classes. I was told that running a pan car would make me a better touring car driver.

My driving skills are somewhat lacking since I've only been in the hobby for less than a year. I usually finish right around mid-pack at every event I'm at. With that said, what would be a good forgiving body that doesn't push like a dump truck?

Any and all help/info is appreciated!
Here is a link to information that has been gathered by member RedBullFixx
12th Scale Racing is Alive and Well in So Cal

Tons of great info and links in there. I'm not running 13.5 sono help on the tires, hopefully someone else can chime in about that
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Old 01-15-2015, 10:21 AM   #41916
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That tire combo may work. It's a weird one but some tracks are weird and if it came from a local, might be the ticket.

Pick up some new blu fronts and rears and some greene rears and double blu fronts. Some combo of those should be even better.
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Old 01-15-2015, 10:31 AM   #41917
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Hi guys,

did someone already tried the Orion R10 Pro 1-2S on his pan car? Do you need to use an external booster or a additional LiPo pack? Is the HW V3.1 a better solution?

Thanks in advance,
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Old 01-15-2015, 10:47 AM   #41918
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Originally Posted by G-rem View Post
Hi guys,

did someone already tried the Orion R10 Pro 1-2S on his pan car? Do you need to use an external booster or a additional LiPo pack? Is the HW V3.1 a better solution?

Thanks in advance,
G-rem
You don't need any additional booster or LiPo pack with that speedo, it will work just fine in stock form. Not worth replacing if you already have it!
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Old 01-15-2015, 10:50 AM   #41919
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DBM View Post
It also came with CRC magenta front tires and Yellow rears (3 pairs of each). Are these a good starting point for tire compounds for medium traction carpet and 13.5 blinky?
These two different tires are from different families of rubber which could pose an issue. What I mean by this is that they generate different amounts of grip, the yellows are a tire that is generally considered a stock tire because it is very free in the corners and without a ton of grip. The magenta's on the other hand is a more aggressive tire that is going to generate a lot of grip. In my experience the magenta could possibly overpower the yellow rears.

One thing to try would be to get some chrome fronts to go with the yellow fronts and some green rears to go with the magenta fronts. That is more natural pairings for those tires and would give you different options that you could test and determine what works best for you.
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Old 01-15-2015, 11:33 AM   #41920
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Magenta / yellow has won many stock races at big events a few years ago. Not a bad combo but can get aggressive through the run. Doping times and amounts are critical.
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Old 01-15-2015, 12:31 PM   #41921
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Originally Posted by Kave View Post
You don't need any additional booster or LiPo pack with that speedo, it will work just fine in stock form. Not worth replacing if you already have it!
Thanks Kave!

I don't have any 1S speedo yet, that's why I am looking at this.

As I start from nothing regarding esc, would you advise me to pick the Orion or the HobbyWing? I'm a little bit afraid of the Orion's BEC: 6V 2A whereas the HW has 6V 3A BEC and the new MuchMore has 6V 3.5A BEC...

Thanks in advance,
G-rem
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Old 01-15-2015, 01:25 PM   #41922
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Originally Posted by G-rem View Post
Thanks Kave!

I don't have any 1S speedo yet, that's why I am looking at this.

As I start from nothing regarding esc, would you advise me to pick the Orion or the HobbyWing? I'm a little bit afraid of the Orion's BEC: 6V 2A whereas the HW has 6V 3A BEC and the new MuchMore has 6V 3.5A BEC...

Thanks in advance,
G-rem
What you buy really depends on what you want to use it for. If you want to be able to use it in a 2s application later without having to buy a new ESC then you want either the Orion or the new Reedy Blackbox, both are great speed controls. If you don't want to be able to use it in a 2s application later (and the HW 1s cannot be used with 2s) then I am a big fan of the 1s only speedos like the HW 1s.

It's really just personal preference at this point, all of the products you mentioned are very good.
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Old 01-15-2015, 02:08 PM   #41923
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kave View Post
What you buy really depends on what you want to use it for. If you want to be able to use it in a 2s application later without having to buy a new ESC then you want either the Orion or the new Reedy Blackbox, both are great speed controls. If you don't want to be able to use it in a 2s application later (and the HW 1s cannot be used with 2s) then I am a big fan of the 1s only speedos like the HW 1s.

It's really just personal preference at this point, all of the products you mentioned are very good.
There is a guy in our area using the HW 1s in his TC, or was it his VTA? How Im not sure..... but he's doing it.
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Old 01-15-2015, 02:44 PM   #41924
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G-rem View Post
Thanks Kave!

I don't have any 1S speedo yet, that's why I am looking at this.

As I start from nothing regarding esc, would you advise me to pick the Orion or the HobbyWing? I'm a little bit afraid of the Orion's BEC: 6V 2A whereas the HW has 6V 3A BEC and the new MuchMore has 6V 3.5A BEC...

Thanks in advance,
G-rem
If you are running a Spektrum receiver you might want to stay away from the lower amperage BEC. Other receivers should work fine. Spektrum receivers can be a bit finicky about power.
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Old 01-15-2015, 05:25 PM   #41925
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Originally Posted by durtbag View Post
There is a guy in our area using the HW 1s in his TC, or was it his VTA? How Im not sure..... but he's doing it.
You can use a HW Justock in 1S without a booster
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