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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 12-28-2014, 01:46 PM   #41851
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David is a friend and I have told him this number of times... (!)

A side shock has friction and it has 'pack'. Pack is when the the shock is asked to move, but doesn't because the initial movement is the piston against a 'wall' of fluid which resists the initial roll. It is worse when you increase the weight of the oil.

Friction is between the piston rod, the o rings and the plastic guides that hold it all in a straight line.

Side dampers have virtually no inertia and no 'pack'. The oil is 'sheared' by the action of the movement of the piston in the cylinder and there is no resistance to it compared to the initial 'pack' of the side damper. There is no friction between the piston and the cylinder - the piston is held in place by the oil.

David always takes a side damper and moves it in and out a lot to show how it loses its effect. However, in the car, the damper never moves more than 2mm or 3mm and it never rotates. If you do that it will not lose any effect after 20 minutes of fiddling with it, let alone 8 minutes of racing.

In practice most top drivers find that they can run three or four races before rebuilding the side tubes.

The side tubes are easier to tune using the wide range of oils available. Side shocks are more difficult to tune as eventually that suffer from 'pack' as the oils get heavier. Side shocks need new o rings every rebuild as the o rings expand over time.

David may love his side shocks, but all the other top drivers in the UK use tube dampers and they have tried both in many cases. AE went from their side shock
to side dampers, and every other manufacturer sells side dampers. The reasons for this are as described above. HTH
Thanks a lot for this super detailed answer!
As my AE 12R5.1 doesn't have tube damper, I don't have other choice to use the original side shock...maybe I'll think about upgrading to tube damper (not so much parts involved)

Regards,
G-rem
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Old 12-28-2014, 02:31 PM   #41852
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Thanks

Does anyone have any others?... something still mass produced perhaps? At 13 bucks a pop gonna make my project pretty expensive
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Old 12-28-2014, 02:48 PM   #41853
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Requires more work to move smoothly

http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules.p...od&prodID=1274
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Old 12-28-2014, 03:32 PM   #41854
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Originally Posted by ShadowAu View Post
Thanks

Does anyone have any others?... something still mass produced perhaps? At 13 bucks a pop gonna make my project pretty expensive
http://www.mcpappyracing.com/store/products/IRS-T%252dPlate-Socket-Kit.html
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Old 12-28-2014, 03:34 PM   #41855
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Does anyone have the instructions for the Slapmastertools Thrust Bearing Kit? I can't remember which way the washers are supposed to face the thrust bearing, grooved or flat?

The grooves face the bearing on both sides, the Delrin spacer also has a lip on one side, that faces the bearing in the hub.
The lip goes to the bearing and the thrust bearing gets the flat side of the washers. And use Associated "Black grease" on the thrust bearing.
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Old 12-28-2014, 09:11 PM   #41856
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The lip goes to the bearing and the thrust bearing gets the flat side of the washers. And use Associated "Black grease" on the thrust bearing.
the little lip on the black plastic piece does go against the diff hub's outer flanged bearing. That little lip on the plastic piece centers it on the flanged bearing properly. The design intent is for the caged thrust bearing to ride sandwiched between the the two metal washers, and riding in the machined round bottom groove that is provided in one face of each metal washer. Having said that, I've found that the Slapmaster's diff's action is a little more free (albeit perhaps not quite as long lasting) if the flat face of the two metal washers faces the caged balls rather then the grooved side. Please note too that the hole in the middle of the metal washers is a slightly bigger diameter than the other washer. So the order of assembly is - black plastic spacer piece first (flanged lip resting against the hub's outer ball bearing), then the bigger hole metal washer, then the caged thrust bearing, then the smaller hole metal washer, then the adjusting nut. Happy motoring. The Slapmaster diff setup, while not quite as free spinning as a brand new plain bearing, is quite a nice deal because it does last pretty much forever without ever getting a crunchy feel.
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Old 12-28-2014, 10:52 PM   #41857
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+1 for the slapmaster setup. I also found using the Yokomo C3 thrust bearing is just as good. I use them in all my axle setups. I keep the Slapmaster as a backup in case of a hard crash.
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Old 12-29-2014, 04:02 AM   #41858
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How much steering lock do most of you use?

With a setup station I always try to get 21 degrees lock (at inner wheel) with the dual rate at 100%. On track I would adjust this if I need less steering, but I feel this only works to a point, anything less than 80 to 85% dual rate (maybe only 18 degrees steering lock) should be solved with car and tire setup.

Some tracks have so much traction that with I can only setup the car with max. 17 or 18 degrees steering to not griprol, front tires only applied 2mm of additive. With a touringcar I know what steps to take to make the car behave like I want. 12th scale and foam is somewhat new to me ;-)
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Old 12-29-2014, 07:02 AM   #41859
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The lip goes to the bearing and the thrust bearing gets the flat side of the washers. And use Associated "Black grease" on the thrust bearing.
I'd advise against the black grease. Treat the thrust washer the same as the main spur gear - very small amount of silicon grease on each ball and them assemble the diff.

The grease is only to help the balls roll in the cage. Black grease is to lubricate under high loads. That last thing you need is to lubricate the balls in the thrust washers - we want them to grip, not slide.

Yes, you may well get better performance from the diff is you use the washers the other way round. This build will give you more point load on the balls making it grip more with less end load. Also, there will be no friction between the balls and sides of the grooves as they rotate.

Providing the washers are hardened on both sides (they should be) this is worth a try to see if you get a better diff action. HTH
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Old 12-29-2014, 09:24 AM   #41860
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Originally Posted by Stevenkoiter View Post
How much steering lock do most of you use?

With a setup station I always try to get 21 degrees lock (at inner wheel) with the dual rate at 100%. On track I would adjust this if I need less steering, but I feel this only works to a point, anything less than 80 to 85% dual rate (maybe only 18 degrees steering lock) should be solved with car and tire setup.

Some tracks have so much traction that with I can only setup the car with max. 17 or 18 degrees steering to not griprol, front tires only applied 2mm of additive. With a touringcar I know what steps to take to make the car behave like I want. 12th scale and foam is somewhat new to me ;-)
This is correct and should give a 3' to 4' turning circle

However, grip roll is not something I would adjust lock for, there are better ways to tune for that

High grip tracks demand small tires
39.5 Fr
41.5 Rr
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Old 12-29-2014, 09:43 AM   #41861
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I'd advise against the black grease. Treat the thrust washer the same as the main spur gear - very small amount of silicon grease on each ball and them assemble the diff.

The grease is only to help the balls roll in the cage. Black grease is to lubricate under high loads. That last thing you need is to lubricate the balls in the thrust washers - we want them to grip, not slide.

Yes, you may well get better performance from the diff is you use the washers the other way round. This build will give you more point load on the balls making it grip more with less end load. Also, there will be no friction between the balls and sides of the grooves as they rotate.

Providing the washers are hardened on both sides (they should be) this is worth a try to see if you get a better diff action. HTH
FYI...Brian from "Slapmaster" told me to use black grease on the thrust bearing and to use the flat side of the washers while I was at IIC this year.
He has a detailed explanation as of why, so if the manufacture says to use there product this way why not. He also told me use steel diff balls and not ceramic. And this is what I have been doing per his instructions. My diff feels a bit better and last longer between rebuilds.
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Old 12-29-2014, 03:05 PM   #41862
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Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
This is correct and should give a 3' to 4' turning circle

However, grip roll is not something I would adjust lock for, there are better ways to tune for that

High grip tracks demand small tires
39.5 Fr
41.5 Rr
What are you hoping to achieve with 2mm stagger f-r? .5mm-1mm seems to be the normal trend.
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Old 12-29-2014, 04:35 PM   #41863
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Hey all, I haven't snooped on this thread in a while. Sure enough, I find questions when I do! It sounds as if answers were found by some knowledgable folks, thanks for the rescue.

I like to use the flat side of the washers vs the groove side. I tell customers that the thrust bearing will last at least 2yrs using the flat side. Well honestly, I don't know how long they will last. I have several that have racked up multiple birthdays and still perform as new. Occasionally I get a customer that has the thrust cage drop a ball or two. Contact me, I will replace them! Years ago, I used brass cages. Those could have a ball wear enough and could roll up on the cage, locking the system up. No good. I went to stainless retainers and it's been all roses since. The thrust washers are custom ordered with 4.15mm ID on both sides, so no need to go looking for the small or large ID like common thrust bearings have. I do use black Asc grease on the thrust, just a light smear. No need to pack it full. It's just for a little lubrication between the cage and the ball. It really does not serve a purpose to lubricate ball to plate as there is no driving force being applied there (like a spur gear). The thrust bearing does add just a little parasitic drag to the diff action vs a brand new hub bearing, but is far more durable. If you use the groove side, you increase that drag. I have asked my supplier if I could get washers without grooves, the answer was no. So look at it as "options".

The lip on the delrin spacer always goes towards the hub bearing. The delrin spacer is the spring. Some folks like to blend their old aluminum spacer back into the mix. Don't do that! It defeats the purpose of the thrust bearing.

Heads up folks!!!! Some axles are coming with 4mm threaded studs such as Xray and VBC. It's my understanding CRC will soon (if not already) be coming out with 4mm threaded studs. My black anodized nut is 8-32. If you try to use the black nut on your 4mm axle, it could gaul or cross thread, damaging both axle and nut. I will be including 4mm nuts as well as 8-32 in my future thrust kits. So pay attention!

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Old 12-29-2014, 05:02 PM   #41864
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One of my cars still has a brass one in it and still works like the day it was new.
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Old 12-29-2014, 07:23 PM   #41865
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Thanks for the heads up Brian, I have always used the grooved side in the past. I'm going racing this weekend and will switch them around to see how that feels.
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