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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 12-12-2014, 04:25 PM   #41791
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Kimbrough here on my AE RC12-5.2
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Old 12-14-2014, 06:13 PM   #41792
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Originally Posted by ccm399 View Post
Ok, guys,

So I tried turning the radio up to 120% and the delay was better. I had another guy try it and he agreed that the car waits a 1/2 second then goes (it moves out OK once it starts). He let me try a new ESC (GM 120r) and while the take off was smoother I would not say it was all that much faster. Anyway, I could not stay for the main so I don't know for sure how it would have worked.

So, as luck would have it I will be moving up to the 17.5 class for the next race (December 13th). I will try running my Tekin again with the 17.5 (TSR Motor) and see how it does.

Wish me luck! For two reasons. First that I can adapt to the increased speed and second that my Tekin works OK with the new motor.

Chris
Hi all,

Well good news all around.

First the new motor resolved the starting line issues. As a matter of fact I had to check up to keep from getting into the back of the guy in front of me this past weekend!

Second, I was able to qualify 4th and finish 3rd in the main. Not too bad. I need more steering for sure but I will work on that next time out.

Chris
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Old 12-14-2014, 06:16 PM   #41793
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I have an old RC12R5 that I bought used a few years ago and sat collecting dust(Im a 1/8th gas guy) and I want to revive it as I have more funds now, plus I want to make it a "holidays project". Im gonna need a new chassis as it has a couple shunts in the front. Im going to buy the conversion kit to R5.1, is there anything else I should get?

Thanks
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Old 12-14-2014, 06:22 PM   #41794
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If you need a chassis, check out these:

Red Mosquito Racing 12r5.2 associated 1/12 hop up parts!

Raced against him today and his stuff was quick.
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Old 12-15-2014, 12:04 AM   #41795
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If you need a chassis, check out these:

Red Mosquito Racing 12r5.2 associated 1/12 hop up parts!

Raced against him today and his stuff was quick.
His hubs are super light but can bend and break since magnesium is a soft metal. I bent the diff hub and broke the left hub when I tighten the screw. so now I'll just stick with IRS hubs.
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Old 12-15-2014, 01:22 AM   #41796
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Hey guys, can someone explain why 1/12 scale cars, or pan cars in general do a front end shuffle at end of a straight, going into sweepers? Is this what they call double steer? anyone have a good explanation why it does it, and how to get rid of it? I notice it on my car, and also noticed it on some of the cars at the IIC this year.

I just started to get in to 12th scale, and since I've figured out my gearing and timing, my car is going faster with a 13.5. I get a massive front end shuffle at the end of our straight going into the sweeper, and the car just pushes. Only way I found to help, was to let of throttle going into the sweeper, and get back on half throttle mid way, or hug the inside like of that banked sweeper. I heard thicker side tube oil, but I'm at 30k right now. running BSR team purple front and green backs, on a stock TOP rebel 12. We run a sealed asphalt with say medium bite.
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Old 12-15-2014, 01:52 AM   #41797
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Ok I've had a few practice days with my new LTX and I'm getting annoyed by over rotation. I'm running on low to medium grip smooth asphalt with 10.5 blinky. Running paragon or death grip the car is awesome for the first 4 to 5 minutes then once the goop wears off I go to put the power down around a corner and the car just keeps turning. Running std LTX kit with the only changes being a 12lb instead of the kit 14lb centre shock, 500cst in the shock and 7000 in the tubes. Using Ulti hard fronts and soft rears, 4mm ride height and 2mm of pod droop. I've got the droop screws backed of a mm as the car is new and tweak free ATM. When the tyres are new out the packet the car doesn't have this issue and the diameters are 46.5 rear and 45.5 front.. Now I've trued them up a bit after they were coneing to 43.5/42.5 the car has developed this issue.

Are big tyres the go on asphalt? Maybe speedmind need to be on my shopping list. Are large tyres front and rear the ticket? Or is it the rears causing the issue? For reference Another guy is running an assoc .2 and had no droop springs installed, massive rear tyres, trued and glued side wall fronts and an eternity of pod droop and is killing it over 8 minutes. He is using sxt 3.0.

Any thoughts are appreciated.
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Old 12-15-2014, 05:02 AM   #41798
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How long are you saucing the fronts and rears for? Is there a reason why you are running

Your shock and tube setup looks good, I would maybe up the tube lube to 10k. Ulti hards and soft? Is everyone else running this tire setup?

How is your rear differential? Is it butter smooth? A well built differential makes a HUGE difference in the cars handling.

Your ride height looks good, 4 mm rear and 4 mm front? Your pod droop is a little much, try 1.2-1.5 mm. What is your pod sag?

What do you mean by droop screws? Are you talking about the side springs?

I run on asphalt and my tires are 45 mm rear and 44 mm fronts. A large tire will provide more grip.. You're fine in that department.

Check your pod sag.You can read it up here.
http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/spee...hassisSag.html
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Old 12-15-2014, 08:55 AM   #41799
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Originally Posted by Benzaah View Post
Ok I've had a few practice days with my new LTX and I'm getting annoyed by over rotation. I'm running on low to medium grip smooth asphalt with 10.5 blinky. Running paragon or death grip the car is awesome for the first 4 to 5 minutes then once the goop wears off I go to put the power down around a corner and the car just keeps turning. [...] Are big tyres the go on asphalt? Maybe speedmind need to be on my shopping list. Are large tyres front and rear the ticket? Or is it the rears causing the issue? For reference Another guy is running an assoc .2 and had no droop springs installed, massive rear tyres, trued and glued side wall fronts and an eternity of pod droop and is killing it over 8 minutes. He is using sxt 3.0.

Any thoughts are appreciated.
It's all about the tires, mate.

Run them big, though with a standard 1-2mm split front to rear.

Also, it's spring in Australia, yes? You mention asphalt so I assume you're running outdoors. It's likely there's pollen in the air, and that can definitely affect the longevity of your run. Try the following prep:

Black Paragon on the rears for 30 minutes.

Then apply suntan lotion--45spf, cheap stuff that you might purchase in a gas station or convenience store. Coat the rears in a thin layer and let them sit until the white is gone. Squeeze and wipe the tires thoroughly. The suntan lotion helps with the dust build-up. All together, it's about a 45 minute prep.

Sauce the fronts in a more normal way, 15-20 minutes of Paragon, half-width. If you start to push midway, try the same thing with the suntan lotion.

Everything else you're describing setup-wise seems about right. Soften the car up, let it work. Though it may be you're getting too small at the 43mm range. Pay attention to your body, too. The TR-12 works well outside. It's a rear grip and stability lid.
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Old 12-15-2014, 10:40 AM   #41800
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Originally Posted by Quark View Post
Hey guys, can someone explain why 1/12 scale cars, or pan cars in general do a front end shuffle at end of a straight, going into sweepers? Is this what they call double steer? anyone have a good explanation why it does it, and how to get rid of it? I notice it on my car, and also noticed it on some of the cars at the IIC this year.

I just started to get in to 12th scale, and since I've figured out my gearing and timing, my car is going faster with a 13.5. I get a massive front end shuffle at the end of our straight going into the sweeper, and the car just pushes. Only way I found to help, was to let of throttle going into the sweeper, and get back on half throttle mid way, or hug the inside like of that banked sweeper. I heard thicker side tube oil, but I'm at 30k right now. running BSR team purple front and green backs, on a stock TOP rebel 12. We run a sealed asphalt with say medium bite.
Double steer is usually an indication of understeer
More camber, more front grip can solve this

Are the front tires wearing flat or coned ?

Side tube damping can help. but may also mask the issue up front

This years IIC track had a fairly bumpy section leading into the sweeper, doubt there was much issue of Double steer there ?

Feel free to browse thru the link in my sig for more 1/12 tuning tips
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Old 12-15-2014, 02:35 PM   #41801
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Originally Posted by PutAwayWet View Post
It's all about the tires, mate.

Run them big, though with a standard 1-2mm split front to rear.

Also, it's spring in Australia, yes? You mention asphalt so I assume you're running outdoors. It's likely there's pollen in the air, and that can definitely affect the longevity of your run. Try the following prep:

Black Paragon on the rears for 30 minutes.

Then apply suntan lotion--45spf, cheap stuff that you might purchase in a gas station or convenience store. Coat the rears in a thin layer and let them sit until the white is gone. Squeeze and wipe the tires thoroughly. The suntan lotion helps with the dust build-up. All together, it's about a 45 minute prep.

Sauce the fronts in a more normal way, 15-20 minutes of Paragon, half-width. If you start to push midway, try the same thing with the suntan lotion.

Everything else you're describing setup-wise seems about right. Soften the car up, let it work. Though it may be you're getting too small at the 43mm range. Pay attention to your body, too. The TR-12 works well outside. It's a rear grip and stability lid.
Quote:
Originally Posted by EDWARD2003 View Post
How long are you saucing the fronts and rears for? Is there a reason why you are running

Your shock and tube setup looks good, I would maybe up the tube lube to 10k. Ulti hards and soft? Is everyone else running this tire setup?

How is your rear differential? Is it butter smooth? A well built differential makes a HUGE difference in the cars handling.

Your ride height looks good, 4 mm rear and 4 mm front? Your pod droop is a little much, try 1.2-1.5 mm. What is your pod sag?

What do you mean by droop screws? Are you talking about the side springs?

I run on asphalt and my tires are 45 mm rear and 44 mm fronts. A large tire will provide more grip.. You're fine in that department.

Check your pod sag.You can read it up here.
http://www.petitrc.comround 30 minut...hassisSag.html
Thanks for the reply guys. Yes asphalt but it is indoors. There was pollen on the track as the track is in an old warehouse with a dodgy roof so crap does come in when we have big storms like in the last week.
Diff is smooth. I've got carbide balls currently but I do have ceramics ready to install. Diff is on the loose side to deal with the lack of traction. Droop screws are side springs. I'm not familiar with your pod sag. By droop I mean the car is at 4mm ride height and the rear part of the chassis rises to 6mm before the rear wheels lift off. I have added spacers between the steering knuckle and c hub to take out the droop in the front end.

Tyre prep is not something I'm strong on. I have dermatitis as well so I can't work the chemicals into the tyre like some others are.

I am goopping full rear and inside 1/3rd on the front for about 30 minutes. We don't have more than 30 minutes between rounds as the race director pushes us through quick so he can get home early. We race at night from 630 till 11 ish usually. I'll have a think about this today and post again when I get home from work. Thanks again.
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Old 12-15-2014, 03:51 PM   #41802
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Try a softer front tire with a bit less steering dual rate.
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Old 12-15-2014, 09:18 PM   #41803
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I have a similar issue with Benzaah on asphalt. I built the Xray as per the instructions and tried using 15000wt diff oil in the slider tubes as recommended by a local hobby shop. Using Xceed Medium compound tires all round (35 shore fronts, 30 rear). I sauce the tires with Paragon ground effect and the car hooks up nicely during the first few mins. When the sauce wears off, the rear end will start loosing its grip. Every 180 degree tight turn, the car easily spins when accelerating out of the corner. I have to ease the throttle exiting the turn, making sure my wheel is centered before I can give it more throttle.

I tried going back to the stock 3000wt diff for the slider tubes and that didnt make a whole lot of difference. The rear end would still want to come round and make donuts if I accelerate too hard out of the corner. Adjusting the diff doesnt seem to do anything either whether I have it set to a stiff or loose diff.

Another thing is, After 4 packs of battery, my tires is basically worn down to 2-3 mm of foam left on both front and rear. I didnt true them or do anything out of the box. They seem to wear exceptionally fast.
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Old 12-15-2014, 09:28 PM   #41804
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Originally Posted by disaster999 View Post
I have a similar issue with Benzaah on asphalt. I built the Xray as per the instructions and tried using 15000wt diff oil in the slider tubes as recommended by a local hobby shop. Using Xceed Medium compound tires all round (35 shore fronts, 30 rear). I sauce the tires with Paragon ground effect and the car hooks up nicely during the first few mins.

When the sauce wears off, the rear end will start loosing its grip. Every 180 degree tight turn, the car easily spins when accelerating out of the corner. I have to ease the throttle exiting the turn, making sure my wheel is centered before I can give it more throttle.

I tried going back to the stock 3000wt diff for the slider tubes and that didn't make a whole lot of difference. The rear end would still want to come round and make donuts if I accelerate too hard out of the corner.

Another thing is, After 4 packs of battery, my tires is basically worn down to 2-3 mm of foam left on both front and rear. I didnt true them or do anything out of the box. They seem to wear exceptionally fast.
Is your track clean? I race on an asphalt track which sometimes receives a small dusting of volcanic ash. It's impossible to get around the track without the rear end coming around. However, when the track is in good condition, and I encounter over steer I usually check my radio settings.

Try running -ve expo in the steering and throttle and reduce your EPA on the steering.

If that doesn't solve anything would also check and or change other settings.

Differential, camber, center damper spring, front springs, and sauce times.
I usually sauce the rears (paragon black can) for an hour. Then the front I sauce 10 minutes on the fronts and use white can for 2 minutes.
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Old 12-15-2014, 09:30 PM   #41805
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Your ride height looks good, 4 mm rear and 4 mm front? Your pod droop is a little much, try 1.2-1.5 mm. What is your pod sag?


Check your pod sag.You can read it up here.
http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/spee...hassisSag.html


I'm trying to get a better understanding of pod droop and chassis sag. I own a xti Alter ego, and until now only used center shock tension to keep the center of the car off the ground. If I don't change the shock length, but add tensioning the spring, this will not only raise the center of the car, but also reduce the sag?
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