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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 11-30-2014, 05:17 PM   #41731
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RCBuddha View Post
Has anyone fitted a Kyosho Plazma LM body on an RM-01?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m1T-Oc1E_gE

If I'm not mistaken the person running with me in the video is using a LM body on a R12 chassis. So, I think it's doable, but the rear wheel section will look a little funny.
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Old 11-30-2014, 06:31 PM   #41732
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Originally Posted by SlowerOne View Post
It will depend on which tubes you a re using, how you fill them and how you want the car to behave.

Each manufacturers damper tubes are different. This is because the performance of the damper depends on the clearance between the tube and the piston and the design of the slots in the piston.

It is often the case that 10k in one set of tubes gives a very different amount of damping to 10k in another set of tubes. It is easy to ask people what lube they use, but you have to know which car they are using too, and assume they are using the tubes from that car.

20k in an AE tube is quite different from 20k in a CRC tube... or a Speedmerchant or a Serpent or a...

It's best to go and feel the damping in the tubes. Ask the guys at your club if you can test their dampers against yours to see if there is really is a big difference in damping between the weight of oil you use that he weight of oil they use. That way you can learn what works for you and how chaining the oil changes the way the car drives.

Don't assume knowing the weight of oil to use gives the same damping for= everyone - it doesn't! HTH

(I like light damping so in AE tubes I use 7k, 10k and 15k - and I fill them differently to change the damping effect.)
Thanks! I was hoping to get a range of fluids so I don't buy bottles and never use them. Unfortunately we do not have a local track, so I only get to race once a month which does not leave a lot for testing.

How many ways can you lube the pistons and what affect does that have on the way they perform?
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Old 11-30-2014, 07:31 PM   #41733
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Just finished doing product reviews for Team Bomber Racing products.

These products are specifically designed for the Yokomo R12 series. They also offer products for other 1/12th scale cars.

Check them out!

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=8x01amNdgv8 Front end
conversion.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=sM07qlrNzQU Rear Pod

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=THPJyGpY-wI Roll tubes

Please feel free to ask me any questions about Team Bomber.


I'm also looking forward to testing out and reviewing products from TKO!
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Old 12-01-2014, 10:04 AM   #41734
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I use 5k or 7k in my CRC most of the time...
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Old 12-01-2014, 10:11 AM   #41735
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I use 5k or 7k in my CRC most of the time...
That is really light Frank, I've never heard of any of the CRC guys running anything under 10k.
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Old 12-01-2014, 10:22 AM   #41736
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That is really light Frank, I've never heard of any of the CRC guys running anything under 10k.
I only had 5k, and started with that, then went to 10k after a few packs, liked somethings, didn't like others. I went to 7k, and like that as a good in-between.
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Old 12-01-2014, 10:30 AM   #41737
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I only had 5k, and started with that, then went to 10k after a few packs, liked somethings, didn't like others. I went to 7k, and like that as a good in-between.
Did you try a more drastic step? 20 or 30k maybe?
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Old 12-01-2014, 01:29 PM   #41738
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Did you try a more drastic step? 20 or 30k maybe?
Not yet... What would I expect from that change?
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Old 12-01-2014, 02:17 PM   #41739
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Not yet... What would I expect from that change?
This slightly depends on grip levels, but in general going up in tube lube is going to make the car more responsive. I know when I ran the CRC car, and when I talk to my friends who run for CRC, they have found anything under about 20k makes the car pretty lazy to drive. I often like to use the word "precise" and I think that going up in the tube lube, especially on the CRC car, makes the car more precise for me. Short answer - it will turn in harder and generally feel like it has more overall steering.
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Old 12-01-2014, 02:21 PM   #41740
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I have heard the same as well, however with my X12 '15 I notice the opposite. Down in lube viscosity makes the car turn in more and feel more responsive. Going up slows the response and makes the car "easier to drive" and usually slightly slower for me.
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Old 12-01-2014, 02:31 PM   #41741
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This slightly depends on grip levels, but in general going up in tube lube is going to make the car more responsive. I know when I ran the CRC car, and when I talk to my friends who run for CRC, they have found anything under about 20k makes the car pretty lazy to drive. I often like to use the word "precise" and I think that going up in the tube lube, especially on the CRC car, makes the car more precise for me. Short answer - it will turn in harder and generally feel like it has more overall steering.
Now that I have a bit more running in with the 1/12 cars, I am starting to feel the car a bit better a pick apart how I'd like to improve it. My car has a bit of a lazy feeling, especially high speed, but will occasionally step out the rear end in tighter infield sections (which effective stops the car and all of its momentum). I'd like to pick up steering to improve the speed of the car, but also improve the rear side bite to keep the car from stepping out.

Any thoughts?
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Old 12-01-2014, 02:40 PM   #41742
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Now that I have a bit more running in with the 1/12 cars, I am starting to feel the car a bit better a pick apart how I'd like to improve it. My car has a bit of a lazy feeling, especially high speed, but will occasionally step out the rear end in tighter infield sections (which effective stops the car and all of its momentum). I'd like to pick up steering to improve the speed of the car, but also improve the rear side bite to keep the car from stepping out.

Any thoughts?
Couple things, first thing is what are you running for tires and does the car do this all run or just at the end of the run? If it's not doing it all run then the answer is likely tires, if it's doing it all run then it's more likely setup. One thing I have found to contribute to the car dumping over like you describe is running too big of tires. I've recently been running tires pretty small even for club racing and find them to work great (starting them no bigger then 41mm or even smaller).

Running 5k or 7k in the tubes you might actually be dumping all the weight too fast. Are you also running really soft side springs? A basically "standard" setup on the car you are running is .50 side springs with 20k in the tubes. I would start with going up on tube weight and see how that effects your car. Like I said with the super light setup you are likely just transferring all of the weight upon turn in and then all of the load is put on the tire. At that point the tire simply can't hold on and you are experiencing a spin out.
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Old 12-01-2014, 03:15 PM   #41743
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Couple things, first thing is what are you running for tires and does the car do this all run or just at the end of the run? If it's not doing it all run then the answer is likely tires, if it's doing it all run then it's more likely setup. One thing I have found to contribute to the car dumping over like you describe is running too big of tires. I've recently been running tires pretty small even for club racing and find them to work great (starting them no bigger then 41mm or even smaller).

Running 5k or 7k in the tubes you might actually be dumping all the weight too fast. Are you also running really soft side springs? A basically "standard" setup on the car you are running is .50 side springs with 20k in the tubes. I would start with going up on tube weight and see how that effects your car. Like I said with the super light setup you are likely just transferring all of the weight upon turn in and then all of the load is put on the tire. At that point the tire simply can't hold on and you are experiencing a spin out.
Tires were small, 39.5/40.5mm. I am running CRC Blue/Green. I had been running Black/Yellow, and those were really stuck feeling, but continued to lose steering throughout the run, and never really had the same amount. Blue/Green is really consistent throughout the run, and seem to finish really strong. The handling "issue" I have is pretty consistent throughout the run, although just a little worse at the start when the sauce is fresh.

I am running the kit side springs (.50) with 7k right now. I'll have to just try 20k.
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Old 12-01-2014, 03:36 PM   #41744
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Tires were small, 39.5/40.5mm. I am running CRC Blue/Green. I had been running Black/Yellow, and those were really stuck feeling, but continued to lose steering throughout the run, and never really had the same amount. Blue/Green is really consistent throughout the run, and seem to finish really strong. The handling "issue" I have is pretty consistent throughout the run, although just a little worse at the start when the sauce is fresh.

I am running the kit side springs (.50) with 7k right now. I'll have to just try 20k.
Blue/Green is really good but can start off really hard to drive simply because of the amount of grip the fronts have. I would also suggest trying a very minimal amount of sauce on the front. If I run more then 1/3 for about 1/2 the time as I sauce the rears the fronts start to overpower the rears and cause the same issue you are explaining. Have you tried a double blue front?
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Old 12-01-2014, 03:50 PM   #41745
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Blue/Green is really good but can start off really hard to drive simply because of the amount of grip the fronts have. I would also suggest trying a very minimal amount of sauce on the front. If I run more then 1/3 for about 1/2 the time as I sauce the rears the fronts start to overpower the rears and cause the same issue you are explaining. Have you tried a double blue front?
I didn't know they offered a double blue in all honest...lol. I've been saucing my rear 15 min before I run, fronts 10 min before. Saucing the full front. Anytime I sauce less than the full front, the car tends to change too much for me throughout the run.
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