R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

Print Wikipost

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 11-28-2014, 01:08 PM   #41716
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 377
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Any oval people in here?

__________________
PremierRC - Timezone Raceway I and II - Schumacher Racing cars - EMRFactory.com
Robert Bakoczy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-28-2014, 05:04 PM   #41717
Tech Master
 
ShadowAu's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Somewhere you'd never heard of
Posts: 1,463
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Robert Bakoczy View Post
Any oval people in here?

I am more egg shaped myself ... but no not much oval stuff here where I race
__________________
I have only one more RC thing on my bucket list and I will keep racing (and probably coming last) till its done...
ShadowAu is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-29-2014, 10:17 AM   #41718
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 29
Default

My new XII has shipped. Can't wait
__________________
BD7 2014 mod, BD7 13.5, Serpent S120 ltx 10.5
marcvanderzon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-29-2014, 04:32 PM   #41719
Tech Apprentice
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 58
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

What weight lube do you use in your side damper tubes? Getting into 1/12 scale and my associated manual calls for the box diff lube, the setup tips call for 1,000 cst., 2,000 cst. Or 3,000 cst.. And finally, the team setup sheet in the manual lists 20,000 cst. What is a good range to have on hand and use?
cdraughon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-29-2014, 04:45 PM   #41720
Tech Master
 
TOADYY's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: SoCal
Posts: 1,178
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to TOADYY
Default

I keep 10k, 15k and 20k on hand. That's basically all you need for the side tubes.
__________________
Pro 10 / 10th scale pan GTP: Speed Merchant Road Kill 10 (one of the first 10 produced)
12th Scale: Speed Merchant Rev 8 PRO x2 and Yokomo YRX12

"Pro 10, the only way to fly around the track!"
TOADYY is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-29-2014, 04:56 PM   #41721
Tech Lord
 
wingracer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 12,636
Trader Rating: 21 (100%+)
Default

I usually like softer tubes so I use 5k and 10k a lot and sometimes 20k.
__________________
Sean. Certified speed crazed mowron.
Team Shepherd USA
www.ashfordhobby.com
wingracer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-29-2014, 05:12 PM   #41722
Tech Champion
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Hawaii, USA
Posts: 7,157
Default

I use 30k at our local track
__________________
Apex RC
www.apexrc.com - Hawaii's #1 RC Proshop

Share & Like Our Page:https://www.facebook.com/ApexRCProshop
Win free stuff!
InspGadgt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-29-2014, 07:22 PM   #41723
Tech Master
 
EDWARD2003's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Kagoshima, Japan
Posts: 1,919
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=m1T-Oc1E_gE

Did some setup changes to the Plazama Ra and the results look good.

Changed to 10,000 CRC in the side tubes.
Associated black side springs.
Associated gold damper spring.
Associated 0.40 (.016) in the front. 10,000 on the king pins.

Too bad the driver didn't look good.

Thanks wingracer and to all those for setup suggestions.
EDWARD2003 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-30-2014, 02:09 AM   #41724
Tech Master
 
EDWARD2003's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Kagoshima, Japan
Posts: 1,919
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

4WD 1/12th!

http://page10.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/j...955#enlargeimg
EDWARD2003 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-30-2014, 07:50 AM   #41725
Tech Master
 
RCBuddha's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: SoCal
Posts: 1,836
Trader Rating: 33 (100%+)
Default

Has anyone fitted a Kyosho Plazma LM body on an RM-01?
RCBuddha is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-30-2014, 08:06 AM   #41726
Tech Adept
 
Clawhammers's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 192
Default

Seek this :


Quote:
Originally Posted by EDWARD2003 View Post
The Plasma LM are not the same length as a standard 1/12. They're much longer. Just to let you know.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JLock View Post
Did a measurement on the tires between the two. The rear tires are the same width, 37mm, between the two. The front tires of the 12th scale are 26mm wide; the Plazma Lm front tires are 25mm wide. The tires of the Plazma Lm are bigger in diameter, 53mm front/55mm rear, whereas the 12th scale tires are slightly smaller, 49mm front/52mm rear. The diameter measurements are uncut tires.



Clawhammers is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-30-2014, 08:09 AM   #41727
Tech Master
 
RCBuddha's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: SoCal
Posts: 1,836
Trader Rating: 33 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Clawhammers View Post
Seek this
Thanks for the info.
RCBuddha is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-30-2014, 10:21 AM   #41728
Tech Master
 
TOADYY's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: SoCal
Posts: 1,178
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to TOADYY
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by EDWARD2003 View Post
That looks its based on the original Kyosho Fantom circa 1985
__________________
Pro 10 / 10th scale pan GTP: Speed Merchant Road Kill 10 (one of the first 10 produced)
12th Scale: Speed Merchant Rev 8 PRO x2 and Yokomo YRX12

"Pro 10, the only way to fly around the track!"
TOADYY is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-30-2014, 11:10 AM   #41729
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 900
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by cdraughon View Post
What weight lube do you use in your side damper tubes? Getting into 1/12 scale and my associated manual calls for the box diff lube, the setup tips call for 1,000 cst., 2,000 cst. Or 3,000 cst.. And finally, the team setup sheet in the manual lists 20,000 cst. What is a good range to have on hand and use?
It will depend on which tubes you a re using, how you fill them and how you want the car to behave.

Each manufacturers damper tubes are different. This is because the performance of the damper depends on the clearance between the tube and the piston and the design of the slots in the piston.

It is often the case that 10k in one set of tubes gives a very different amount of damping to 10k in another set of tubes. It is easy to ask people what lube they use, but you have to know which car they are using too, and assume they are using the tubes from that car.

20k in an AE tube is quite different from 20k in a CRC tube... or a Speedmerchant or a Serpent or a...

It's best to go and feel the damping in the tubes. Ask the guys at your club if you can test their dampers against yours to see if there is really is a big difference in damping between the weight of oil you use that he weight of oil they use. That way you can learn what works for you and how chaining the oil changes the way the car drives.

Don't assume knowing the weight of oil to use gives the same damping for= everyone - it doesn't! HTH

(I like light damping so in AE tubes I use 7k, 10k and 15k - and I fill them differently to change the damping effect.)
SlowerOne is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-30-2014, 04:47 PM   #41730
Tech Fanatic
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Poland, Warsaw
Posts: 772
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Hi!

Anyone has been using: Speed Passion - Competition V3.0 1 Cell Motor - 3.5R ?

Just asking because on ebay it is in very good interesting price.

Anyway, 4.5T with used 12.3mm stock trinity 17.5T d3.5 (less magnet field after 2y ) is fast enough for me but want to use something faster ...

Regards!
m.a.
__________________
Michal Abramowicz
http://abram.eu.org/gear_tc6.php
My setups there -> http://www.rc-setups.com
TC6!, TC5R, 12L4, 12R5.1, 10L2, 10R5, RC8T_CE_EL custom F1 chassis
http://www.wgtshop.com/
M.Abramowicz is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 05:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 02:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 08:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 09:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 2 (1 members and 1 guests)
oldnwise
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 05:39 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0