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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 11-26-2014, 09:23 PM   #41701
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''I would say you have this reversed. Thicker lube will tend to keep weight transfered forward as compared to thinner. More steering. You can decide whether you think thicker lube results in a tick less turn in. I will hazard that most feel thicker lube results in more overall steering, and conversely, thinner more rear traction.''

Ahhhhh, the confusion...I must say, asking setup questions in a foreign language can get lost in translation.

So, when I use a thicker tube lube, it's basically like moving a rear touring car shock up one hole on a shock tower. Which will shift the weight transfer to the front. Moving the shock down a hole is like going to thinner tube lube.
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Old 11-26-2014, 09:24 PM   #41702
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Side tubes shouldn't affect weight transfer to the front...I think you have it confused with the center shock.
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Old 11-26-2014, 10:18 PM   #41703
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
Side tubes shouldn't affect weight transfer to the front...I think you have it confused with the center shock.
Are you sure? I'm thinking... when you first get off power and turn in, thicker tube lube would force the outside front tire harder into the driving surface before the lube gave way and let the side spring compress... so just like thicker shock oil in touring car shocks. Am I thinking about this wrong?
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Old 11-26-2014, 10:56 PM   #41704
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In that case I would say the center shock was controlling the weight transfer forward and the damper tubes left to right. So the 2 working in concert would increase the weight transfer to the front outside wheel.

Oddly enough we've found at our track that increasing the lube in the tubes has actually increased grip. Many of us at our outdoor track are running 30k oil in the tubes, lighter than that and the car actually gets loose. Down around 10k lube we start to see the inside rear tire lift.
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Old 11-27-2014, 12:31 AM   #41705
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
In that case I would say the center shock was controlling the weight transfer forward and the damper tubes left to right. So the 2 working in concert would increase the weight transfer to the front outside wheel.

Oddly enough we've found at our track that increasing the lube in the tubes has actually increased grip. Many of us at our outdoor track are running 30k oil in the tubes, lighter than that and the car actually gets loose. Down around 10k lube we start to see the inside rear tire lift.
I run on an outdoor track and feel the same way, thicker tube lube the rear more traction I get. In my mind, side dampers and springs only control the side to side weight transfer of the main chassis. Thus, the chassis side to side weight is being transferred onto the front springs. Simply place your chassis on the table and rock the main chassis side to side. The front springs should compress and rise a little.

That being said, the speed of which the weight transfer occurs will determine the amount of initial front grip you'll get. For example, running 7,000K tube lube will have a fast side to side reaction. Therefore, the front springs will react fast and dig the front suspension into corner causing the rear end to become loose. Therefore, if you use 30,000K the side to side reaction is slowed down. So, the initial dig of the front springs is reduced and you maintain rear traction.

Also, you would have to take in consideration of the pitching damper and it's influence on the front springs. Ugh...
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Old 11-27-2014, 01:05 AM   #41706
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Since were discussing the mental mindsets we develop to build and tune cars I'll bring up a point I haven't sen addressed. Most if not all of the settings we change on model cars can be envisioned as a linear number line laid over a roof top. Lets say side spring stiffness from softest like an AE black or CRC .45 on the left side of the roof to an AE red or CRC .60 on the right side. The direction you want to adjust the stiffness of the side spring depends on which side of the roof peak you're on. The roof peak is our optimal setting. In addition the roof peak is not always in the center of the scale and also moves as other changes to the car are made. For example (this is hypothetical for the sake of explaining my thought) in modified 12th in high traction the peak of the roof is generally skewed to the far left which leads to the use of soft springs to avoid lifting inside rear tires. The peak can move dependent on several factors such as grip level, vehicle speed, and track configuration. This helps to explain how two drivers can make opposite changes in different conditions and both feel that they added grip. Their racing environment placed their original settings on opposite sides of the roof peak and while one went with stiffer springs, or lube or whatever and the other person went softer, they were both moving towards the peak of the roof for their specific set of circumstances. Food for thought...
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Last edited by andrewdoherty; 11-28-2014 at 03:24 PM.
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Old 11-27-2014, 03:09 AM   #41707
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wingracer View Post
There are a few different theories on why motor position matters and I'll touch on them but the simple answer is to always use the biggest spur/pinion combo that will fit in the car (and gives the right rollout of course) to get the motor as far forward as possible. It just feels so much better. As to why...

1. Unlike nearly all other vehicles, the motor is rigidly mounted to the rear axle so it is unsprung weight. However, it is not mounted centered directly over the axle, it's between the axle and the suspension pivot so there is a motion ratio involved. This means that some percentage of motor weight is unsprung and some is sprung. The closer the motor is to that pivot and farther from the rear axle, the less unsprung weight/more sprung weight. This is a good thing.

2. Torque from the motor (accelerating) or applied to the motor (braking) acts directly on the suspension. Pan cars are actually opposite from most cars in that the motor tries to climb the spur under acceleration, lifting the rear while the spur pushes down on the motor under braking, causing it to squat. My theory is that the closer the motor is to the pivot point, the less severe these forces will be. I could be totally wrong about that but on track feel seems to back it up.
Would reducing the pod droop have a similar effect?
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Old 11-27-2014, 03:10 AM   #41708
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Originally Posted by andrewdoherty View Post
Since were discussong the mental mindsets we develop to build and tune cars I'll bring up a point I haven't sen addressed. Most if not all of the settings we change on model cars can be envisioned as a linear number line laid over a roof top. Lets say side spring stiffness from softest like an AE black or CRC .45 on the left side of the roof to an AE red or CRC .60 on the right side. The direction you want to adjust the stiffness of the side spring depends on which side of the roof peak you're on. The roof peak is our optimal setting. In addition the roof peak is not always in the center of the scale and also moves as other changes to the car are made. For example (this is hypothetical for the sake of explaining my thought) in modified 12th in high traction the peak of the roof is generally skewed to the far left which leads to the use of soft springs to avoid lifting inside rear tires. The peak can move dependent on several factors such as grip level, vehicle speed, and track configuration. This helps to explain how two drivers can make opposite changes in different conditions and both feel that they added grip. Their racing environment placed their original settings on opposite sides of the roof peak and while one went with stiffer springs, or lube or whatever and the other person went softer, they were both moving towards the peak of the roof for their specific set of circumstances. Food for thought...
Think my roof has a hole in it

I understand what you're saying, I think. 1/12 is still currently a 'black art' to me as I'm slowly learing about it all.
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Old 11-27-2014, 06:30 AM   #41709
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1/12th is a "black art" But not that bad. The biggest difference is that it's the smallest details that matter the most. a difference of .5mm ride height is a big change to the setup.

This is my favourite class and there is no end to the learning that happens. best thing I will tell anyone in this class is don't be afraid to test. But record your findings. Try different tires, spring rates damper tube oils. everything just to see what it does for you!!!!!

that's the key what works for one driver does not always work for another.

The last thing is if you are super comfortable with how your car is handling you are going to slow. there are many tenths that can be stolen by having a on edge car. But that makes for a workout on the drivers stand.

I have my car set right now (17.5 blinky) so that if I let off the throttle I will over rotate in the corners. This keeps me on the gas and faster through the corners..


Do I come off the Drivers stand all sweaty and out of breath DAMN straight but it was fun.

that's my #2 in racing It has to be fun. it took me about a year to realize this. But I'm better for it
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Old 11-27-2014, 10:00 AM   #41710
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It's not entirely correct but I use Vrc pro to see what all these changes do, it's just so easy to change from one oil to another and feel the difference.
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Old 11-27-2014, 07:11 PM   #41711
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I'm looking for a 1s ESC and saw that AMain sells some by Core-rc. Any opinions?
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Old 11-27-2014, 07:42 PM   #41712
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http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/downloads...manual_web.pdf

CRC's Tuning Guide. You"ll have to scroll down to pages 17-19 for the tuning information. Hope this will be helpful to some
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Old 11-28-2014, 08:51 AM   #41713
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NutDriver View Post
I'm looking for a 1s ESC and saw that AMain sells some by Core-rc. Any opinions?
http://www.falconsekido.com/products...s-v3-1-special

This is what you want and wont find it cheaper. Get on it!
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Old 11-28-2014, 08:54 AM   #41714
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NutDriver View Post
I'm looking for a 1s ESC and saw that AMain sells some by Core-rc. Any opinions?
https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/...inJBoC9O3w_wcB

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Old 11-28-2014, 10:40 AM   #41715
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Thanks, Dez. $48. Awesome.
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