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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 11-23-2014, 01:36 PM   #41671
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How many washers are you running on the front axle? Kit is three I think, often people run two. The less you run the more responsive the car will be. Your set-up sounds about right to me, so if you are running two or more washers on the axle it will feel lazy in sharp direction changes and can push at high speed.

Do you have any spacers between the castor blocks and the aluminium bulkheads? Long wishbone arms on top also slow down the car's reactions. It lowers the roll centre and that slows the reactions. Keep the top wishbone as per the kit build as that gives a faster-reacting car. HTH
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Old 11-23-2014, 06:45 PM   #41672
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Ok, guys,

So I tried turning the radio up to 120% and the delay was better. I had another guy try it and he agreed that the car waits a 1/2 second then goes (it moves out OK once it starts). He let me try a new ESC (GM 120r) and while the take off was smoother I would not say it was all that much faster. Anyway, I could not stay for the main so I don't know for sure how it would have worked.

So, as luck would have it I will be moving up to the 17.5 class for the next race (December 13th). I will try running my Tekin again with the 17.5 (TSR Motor) and see how it does.

Wish me luck! For two reasons. First that I can adapt to the increased speed and second that my Tekin works OK with the new motor.

Chris
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Old 11-23-2014, 07:02 PM   #41673
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SlowerOne View Post
How many washers are you running on the front axle? Kit is three I think, often people run two. The less you run the more responsive the car will be. Your set-up sounds about right to me, so if you are running two or more washers on the axle it will feel lazy in sharp direction changes and can push at high speed.

Do you have any spacers between the castor blocks and the aluminium bulkheads? Long wishbone arms on top also slow down the car's reactions. It lowers the roll centre and that slows the reactions. Keep the top wishbone as per the kit build as that gives a faster-reacting car. HTH
I'm still running the 3 kit washers on the front. I didn't realize those could make a noticeable difference, that's something I can try too. And yes, I'm running 2mm washers under the castor blocks and the shorter top brace from the 12R5 kit. I do realize that slows camber gain and thus makes the car lazier, though I admit I haven't try to run it with kit setup. That's something I can try too.

Thanks for all of the ideas guys, stuff I should have thought about but didn't!
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Old 11-24-2014, 02:32 AM   #41674
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Hi, I'm back in 1/12 after this long outdoor season. Just raced my 12R5.2 yesterday on a new track in Belgium (MRCC Charleroi) and we had a lot of fun.

I have a few "noob" questions

- what are the minimum and maximum tire diameters to drive in good conditions? is this range of dimensions different compared to a tire that will allow the best performances?

- is there a way to prevent the sides of the tire foam from being damaged?

- what are the minimal and maximal ride heights for front and rear?

- what are the tires (compound) to always have in the box (indoor carpet)? local tracks are very tight in dimensions and I'm using magenta/pink jaco right now

- what bodies do you recommend for small tracks? just need a strong one

many thanks!
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Old 11-24-2014, 06:28 AM   #41675
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pulse_ View Post
Hi, I'm back in 1/12 after this long outdoor season. Just raced my 12R5.2 yesterday on a new track in Belgium (MRCC Charleroi) and we had a lot of fun.

I have a few "noob" questions

- what are the minimum and maximum tire diameters to drive in good conditions? is this range of dimensions different compared to a tire that will allow the best performances?
Very generally, Larger tires are better for low grip, smaller tires better for high grip. When grip is high, smaller tires can help prevent grip roll. For club racing, I start tires at 41mm Front, 42mm Rear. You could use them at a larger size, however larger tires tend to chunk easier so there isn't always value in running them big.


- is there a way to prevent the sides of the tire foam from being damaged?
Running them at a smaller diameter is the best way to prevent it. Otherwise you can use a thin coat of CA glue on the sidewall, but this will change how the tire works as the glue stiffens the sidewall.

- what are the minimal and maximal ride heights for front and rear?
I usually don't go any lower than 3.5mm front or rear and not higher than 4mm. If the track is really bumpy then maybe a bit higher - 4.5mm.


- what are the tires (compound) to always have in the box (indoor carpet)? local tracks are very tight in dimensions and I'm using magenta/pink jaco right now
This will depend on what class your running. For stock, Black/yellow or Black/Graylow seems to work just about everywhere. Lately we've been using Blue or Green rears and black/dbl blue/blue fronts depending on how much steering we need.


- what bodies do you recommend for small tracks? just need a strong one
The Protoform 12th scale bodies seem to hold up really well. I just started using the Strakka and it's a good bit more durable than what I was using.


many thanks!
My Answers/opinions in Red
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Old 11-24-2014, 06:30 AM   #41676
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1) For club racing I run a Larger tire for longer use of each tire. Usually start 44mm and run them down to the wheel.
Fronts I start at 43 and run them till they are no longer useful usually about 40mm

For big races Rear 42 fronts 41

2) Making them smaller is the best way to limit "Chunking" Also you can runa bead of CA on the edge but as the tire flexes it will break off and you will have to keep on applying it .

3) min is 3mm F/R All depends on the track I run for our club racing 4mm (it's bumpy)

4)That all depends on where you run but kepp a set to test with from yellow right to Magenta Rears and pink to Black fronts once you find the right tires for that track you will not change much

5) Any of the Protoform Thick (.030") bodies will hold up. but are heavier and again it depends on the class you are running (Stock or Mod)
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Old 11-24-2014, 09:18 AM   #41677
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Not sure if you guys are aware of the trick to prevent sidewall chunking that I picked up from a local mod driver... when you're done cutting the tire down, go at the edges with a file. I'm not talking about just rounding the edges... you go in at a 45* angle first and grind down until you start grinding the outside rim. You do this on both sides and should see a white line as the wheel spins (if you're using white rims). You then round the foam from there. This creates funny looking tires but it protects them from chunking as the rim takes any hits first.
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Old 11-25-2014, 10:18 AM   #41678
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thanks for the answers

as a side note I'm running 10.5 stock for now

just need to find some used sets of tires to try them out

if anyone has a few sets in different compounds for sale (europe), let me know

what happened with corally? are they still releasing 1/12 pan cars? just went on their website and there are no kits there anymore
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Old 11-25-2014, 12:45 PM   #41679
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Default Trackstar 13.5

Anyone successful finding a good motor timing and rollout for 13.5 Trackstar motor in blinky 12th scale?

Thanks,

Ivan
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Old 11-25-2014, 02:40 PM   #41680
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Quote:
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I'm still running the 3 kit washers on the front. I didn't realize those could make a noticeable difference, that's something I can try too. And yes, I'm running 2mm washers under the castor blocks and the shorter top brace from the 12R5 kit. I do realize that slows camber gain and thus makes the car lazier, though I admit I haven't try to run it with kit setup. That's something I can try too.

Thanks for all of the ideas guys, stuff I should have thought about but didn't!
It's not the camber gain that makes the car more reactive, it is the raising of the roll centre. A roll centre closer to the CofG allows the car to transition side to side faster. Camber gain is a bit of a mirage in 12th cars - look at the success SpeedMerchant have with their car on fixed camber with no gain.

The front suspension compresses maybe 1.5mm or 2mm at the most during roll. Move the front suspension that amount and look at the amount of camber that is gained - it is very (very!) small. The real affect on transition is that the shorter wishbone effectively raises the outer pivot and that in turn raises the roll centre.

I recently went back to kit set-up at the front with one washer inside on the front axle and the car flicks easily left to right, turns in and rotates well and is much more responsive to drive. Give it a try...!
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Old 11-25-2014, 02:55 PM   #41681
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SlowerOne View Post
It's not the camber gain that makes the car more reactive, it is the raising of the roll centre. A roll centre closer to the CofG allows the car to transition side to side faster. Camber gain is a bit of a mirage in 12th cars - look at the success SpeedMerchant have with their car on fixed camber with no gain.

The front suspension compresses maybe 1.5mm or 2mm at the most during roll. Move the front suspension that amount and look at the amount of camber that is gained - it is very (very!) small. The real affect on transition is that the shorter wishbone effectively raises the outer pivot and that in turn raises the roll centre.

I recently went back to kit set-up at the front with one washer inside on the front axle and the car flicks easily left to right, turns in and rotates well and is much more responsive to drive. Give it a try...!
I think I remember reading something along those lines a while back, thanks for the explanation. At this point in time the car needs something to make it come alive, so I can give all these ideas a shot. It's a bit weird because my buddy is running the same car with an almost identical setup, and his apparently carves corners. I'll have to swap with him and see... maybe it's just my driving "style" (and I use that term loosely) that's the problem.
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Old 11-25-2014, 03:25 PM   #41682
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Hi metalnut

Add reducing droop to your list. It has helped me a lot with increasing steering and in general just helping the back end of the car rotate.

Thanks

Marc
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Old 11-25-2014, 04:38 PM   #41683
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Hi metalnut

Add reducing droop to your list. It has helped me a lot with increasing steering and in general just helping the back end of the car rotate.

Thanks

Marc
I assume you mean pod droop? Below 1mm?
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Old 11-25-2014, 05:21 PM   #41684
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Here in Japan there's a top Yokomo Factory driver who runs an associated front end. Check out his setup.

http://www.teambomber.jp/waistmountain14.2.16.pdf

The above setup is for asphalt. Please note : The upper arm block (castor block) is not a standard associated block, it's one of his own designs, which you can buy. It has various offset positions that you can use. What it does in the above and below setup is it moves the upper arm pivot point +4 mm outward. This allows you to maintain the same camber gain you were previously running but also run wider front track which will offers more front stability.

The below setup is from the Japan Nationals stock class. This car was on rails, and posted the fastest lap and could of easily won the title if not for a few driver errors.

http://www.teambomber.jp/R12_Bomber_20140706_kuroda.pdf


I tried his castor block setup and used this setup. Stupid me, I placed the blocks in the wrong orientation (Japanese Kanji is difficult to read off of paper, where were you Google Translate!). I ended up moving the pivot point - 4 mm inwards. This basically eliminated any for of camber gain. The slow tight infield sections were fine, however, the high speed sweepers and infield sections it pushed hard like a dump truck. And I mean HARD.
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Old 11-25-2014, 10:22 PM   #41685
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Kyosho Plasma revisited... I'll be honest I kinda gave up on this chassis. I couldn't figure out why it was handling the way I wanted it to. Lone behold it was my lack of knowledge of 1/12th setup that was the main factor. Obviously.

Ever since switching over to R12C3, I've learned a lot and still learning. So, all the knowledge I've gathered and put into my Plasma Ra. I went back to the chassis and looked over everything... First off...This will sound embarrassing, I thought all the shims in the bag were required to make the track width 172 and 168.. So I used them all... Boy was I wrong.. Little did I know, my track width front and rear was out, and I mean way out. The rear was 182 mm and the front 174.. Talk about dump truck.

I removed all the spacers with 172 mm rear and 166 mm front.

Afterwards I did a test run. What difference it made. It drove so much better, but it still needs more work.

Check out how she handles now. I might add an additional 1 mm spacer to widen the front a little to help with stability.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1gFuFbG_eCo
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