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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 11-21-2014, 12:37 AM   #41656
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Thanks for the reply 14G it is
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Old 11-21-2014, 01:36 AM   #41657
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Originally Posted by disaster999 View Post
Been out of the loop with RC for 8 years and starting to get back into it. This whole brushless thing is new to me and looking for pointers.

I bought an Xray x12 2015 spec and Turnigy Trackstar GenII One Cell ESC and Trackstart 10.5T motor. What gauge wire would you recommend? I used to run 16G back in the brushed days and it seemd fine. Would this concept still work with brushless?
Hi,

You can still use 16G wires if You take a look on Xray forum on there H.P.
there is a statement of Alex Hagberg that he uses 16G wires from TQ and he is racing modified.

Claude
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Old 11-21-2014, 02:29 AM   #41658
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16awg gets used to help prevent it having an effect on the motion of the rear pod.
Just use a decent 16awg which contains lots of strands so it's flexible.
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Old 11-21-2014, 10:02 AM   #41659
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TQ 16ga wire is pretty awesome, as are all their other products.
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Old 11-21-2014, 11:40 AM   #41660
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Originally Posted by ccm399 View Post
I'll have to double check the software version. I think it is 249? I am 99% sure it it on the latest that will go on a Gen 1 ESC.

I have not tried a different 21.5 motor no but I have replaced the sensor board in the motor. One of the other guys that normally runs spec at The Gate is running 17.5 now to prep for the champs so maybe I can try his motor. I'll have to ask.

Chris
Ok, so I changed some settings in the ESC and they helped but have not eliminated the issue. Basically I set the throttle minimum to max based on a FB post from Randy Pike about how to properly adjust this setting. Mine worked out to be best at the max setting. This has helped some but the other SPEC cars are still much faster at the tone.

I plan to try the 120% radio trick tomorrow. I have set the ESC with the Radio at 100% and now I will turn it up to 120% on the throttle end point. I would think expo would do the same or similar thing but maybe not. Hopefully it will help. If not I will have to get a new ESC.

Thanks for all your input.

Chris
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Old 11-21-2014, 02:05 PM   #41661
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Originally Posted by ccm399 View Post
Ok, so I changed some settings in the ESC and they helped but have not eliminated the issue. Basically I set the throttle minimum to max based on a FB post from Randy Pike about how to properly adjust this setting. Mine worked out to be best at the max setting. This has helped some but the other SPEC cars are still much faster at the tone.

I plan to try the 120% radio trick tomorrow. I have set the ESC with the Radio at 100% and now I will turn it up to 120% on the throttle end point. I would think expo would do the same or similar thing but maybe not. Hopefully it will help. If not I will have to get a new ESC.

Thanks for all your input.

Chris
I had the same problem with a actinium motor in 17.5.. Turned minimum drive frequency up, ect.ect and nothing fixed it. Put the motor on a motolyser with a 1s pack and found the timing was simply to high. 47 on the motolyser runs great but when it was at 49 it was just to high causing it to cog, be slow and occasionally required a push from a dead stop just to get it moving.
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Old 11-21-2014, 02:30 PM   #41662
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Heck I use 18G for my 17.5 setup
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Old 11-21-2014, 04:48 PM   #41663
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Racermac73 View Post
I had the same problem with a actinium motor in 17.5.. Turned minimum drive frequency up, ect.ect and nothing fixed it. Put the motor on a motolyser with a 1s pack and found the timing was simply to high. 47 on the motolyser runs great but when it was at 49 it was just to high causing it to cog, be slow and occasionally required a push from a dead stop just to get it moving.
Thanks for that.

The motors we run in the SPEC class are fixed timing Speed Passion 21.5 motors.
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Old 11-22-2014, 08:09 AM   #41664
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Dear All,

I am thinking to get into 12scale racing.
Now I am looking at some of the ESC and motors.

My eyes fell on a LRP combination.
Is this ESC also possible to run without a booster needed?
Anyone have some experiance with this ESC?
Here is a link to the ESC;
http://www.lrp.cc/en/products/electr...egler/details/

Thanks in advance!
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Old 11-22-2014, 08:55 AM   #41665
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Originally Posted by spacendeman View Post
Dear All,

I am thinking to get into 12scale racing.
Now I am looking at some of the ESC and motors.

My eyes fell on a LRP combination.
Is this ESC also possible to run without a booster needed?
Anyone have some experiance with this ESC?
Here is a link to the ESC;
http://www.lrp.cc/en/products/electr...egler/details/

Thanks in advance!
Yes, you can use the LRP Flow WT without a booster for 1s classes, such as 12th. LRP doesn't say that you BC an anywhere in their documentation, but the internal bec is good enough that it seems to work just fine, even with 3.5 and 4.0 turn mod motors. If you are running stock or super stock, it should definitely work.
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Old 11-22-2014, 02:39 PM   #41666
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LloydLoar View Post
Yes, you can use the LRP Flow WT without a booster for 1s classes, such as 12th. LRP doesn't say that you BC an anywhere in their documentation, but the internal bec is good enough that it seems to work just fine, even with 3.5 and 4.0 turn mod motors. If you are running stock or super stock, it should definitely work.
Hi LloydLoar,

Thank you very much for your help!
Then I think the choice is made for me :-)
For this moment it is only for 10.5 stock. That is fast enough for me at the moment haha. coming from WGT and pro10 ( 235mm pan car ) with 2s 10.5 boosted I first need to check how the 12scale handles... :-)
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Old 11-23-2014, 01:47 AM   #41667
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Hey all, I'm looking for a bit of setup help. Our track has a nice straight that goes into a right-hand sweeper, then goes into a 180* turn right, a 90* to the left, a chicane, then a 90* to the left again, followed by a 270* right. Long story short, you need a car that transitions quickly and has plenty of on power steering. My 12R5.2 seems to be lacking... one or both, it's a bit hard to say.

I'm basically looking to tighten the car up, make it transition from 90* right to 90* left quickly, as well as allow me to get through the chicane into the hard 90* left.

My setup:

CRC yellow/black tires (pretty standard on our carpet)
AE 0.020 front springs, black side springs, blue top spring
10K on kingpins, 30wt in shock, 20K in each side damper tube, 2mm under upper shock ball
1-1.5* camber, very slight toe out, 10* dynamic caster, 3.25* static caster, 1.2mm pod droop, 12R5 front brace
Equal ride height front and back and middle, anywhere from 3.2mm to 4mm, running Strakka body

My immediate thought was to try green or even silver side springs, or maybe drop tube lube to 10K? Am I missing anything obvious?
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Old 11-23-2014, 02:12 AM   #41668
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The obvious change is the one you mentioned. Blacks are super soft and will numb the car. I would drop the front camber to .5 to 1 and go up to blue side springs. Keep everything else the same. Its possible that the car will wan to hike a rear tire, and at that point you can either dope less of the front, cut your tires smaller (I didn't see a size mentioned)or go down to a silver, or play with side spring preload.
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Old 11-23-2014, 02:22 AM   #41669
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Quote:
Originally Posted by metalnut View Post
My immediate thought was to try green or even silver side springs, or maybe drop tube lube to 10K? Am I missing anything obvious?
you are on the right track, but just try silvers and skip green. If your car gets loose as the run goes at about 6min mark go to green. Crc also makes side springs that are in between that work nicely too.

You can also dope more of the front tire like all of it. When I run Blk ft (with green rears) I dope it all. Try 15k in the side dampeners too. One good way to check and see if you need thicker or thinner dampening is to disconnect one tube and go and run. If the car is better go to a lighter lube.

Monti
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Old 11-23-2014, 01:25 PM   #41670
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Thanks for the responses, guys. My tires start at 43mm rear and 42mm front, that's what I started with in Q1 last night. I sauce full rear and about 7/8 of the front. The car actually feels the best half way through the run, and towards the end it still feels good.

In my quest to find more steering, I have been decreasing the shims under the upper shock ball. Kit is at 4mm I think, and I noticed that decreasing that gave me more steering. At one point in that experiment I tried silver springs and the car felt loose, but that was on a different track. I'll give blues a go, try silvers again, and then play with the other recommendations. Thanks!

Edit: I should mention that I'm running the Team Prime shock, which is smoother than the kit AE shock. I wonder if I should be compensating for that with heavier oil, maybe 32.5 or so?
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