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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 11-16-2014, 03:38 PM   #41626
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Hi Guys.

First, great thread! Huge wealth of info. Having said that please know I have done my best to search for the answer.

Here goes... I have gotten back into 1/12th scale racing this fall and I re-used my older Tekin RS ESC (black case) with a booster. It has the latest firmware I can put on it installed and is setup for 1s. The class is 1/2 SPEC 21.5 blinky (slowish but tons of FUN!). Anyway, I have a couple issues.

1. Cogging at lower RPM.

I have tried everything, new sensor wire, new sensor board in the motor and nothing seems to fix it. Sometimes it's bad enough that I have to go push the car forward to get it to start.

2. NO punch at the start of the race... None... I TQ'd this past weekend then could not get the car to move when I hit the throttle at the start. This happened before but I though I was late on the tone. This past weekend I am very confident I was not late. The car will just not move out.

I checked the ESC setting and I am using throttle profile 3 (linear) and the minimum throttle is set to 10. Neutral width is 5. These seem like OK settings to me but maybe I am missing something.

So the question is, is there anything that can be done with the Tekin or do I need to move up to a dedicated 1s speedo?

If I have to upgrade I am looking at:

1. Turnigy Gen 2 1s ~$60 with the programmer
2. Viper VTX1 1s ~ $180 with programmer but not PC interface
3. ORCA >$200 plus programmer
4. Hobbywing 1s ~ $180 plus programmer

So based on "you get what you pay for" the Viper looks like the best value of the more expense models.

Would you guys be able to comment on the Tekin issues or recommend a good replacement (taking into account the SPEC class I run).

Thanks for your time.

Chris
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Old 11-16-2014, 03:47 PM   #41627
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ccm399 View Post
Hi Guys.

First, great thread! Huge wealth of info. Having said that please know I have done my best to search for the answer.

Here goes... I have gotten back into 1/12th scale racing this fall and I re-used my older Tekin RS ESC (black case) with a booster. It has the latest firmware I can put on it installed and is setup for 1s. The class is 1/2 SPEC 21.5 blinky (slowish but tons of FUN!). Anyway, I have a couple issues.

1. Cogging at lower RPM.

I have tried everything, new sensor wire, new sensor board in the motor and nothing seems to fix it. Sometimes it's bad enough that I have to go push the car forward to get it to start.

2. NO punch at the start of the race... None... I TQ'd this past weekend then could not get the car to move when I hit the throttle at the start. This happened before but I though I was late on the tone. This past weekend I am very confident I was not late. The car will just not move out.

I checked the ESC setting and I am using throttle profile 3 (linear) and the minimum throttle is set to 10. Neutral width is 5. These seem like OK settings to me but maybe I am missing something.

So the question is, is there anything that can be done with the Tekin or do I need to move up to a dedicated 1s speedo?

If I have to upgrade I am looking at:

1. Turnigy Gen 2 1s ~$60 with the programmer
2. Viper VTX1 1s ~ $180 with programmer but not PC interface
3. ORCA >$200 plus programmer
4. Hobbywing 1s ~ $180 plus programmer

So based on "you get what you pay for" the Viper looks like the best value of the more expense models.

Would you guys be able to comment on the Tekin issues or recommend a good replacement (taking into account the SPEC class I run).

Thanks for your time.

Chris
The Tekin RS is still a fine esc for 1/12 racing
Which motor do you have
What is your timing set at
Ecessive timing can cause cogging
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Old 11-16-2014, 03:50 PM   #41628
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Have you tried a little less timing?

1s 21.5 isn't going to have any punch. That's kinda crazy slow.

The one problem with Tekins is that they are a bit slow from a standing start, especially with high motor timing.
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Old 11-16-2014, 03:51 PM   #41629
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The Tekin has lights on it that blink for each of the 3 sensors as they are tripped. I would check to make sure these lights are flashing when the motor is turned. If they are not, and you have changed the sensor wire and sensor board then likely there is something broken in the ESC.

As for buying a new ESC...if budget is not a concern get the Orca...you will not be disappointed. As a general rule I stay away from Turnigy. The Viper is pretty nice...I've had 2 of them. But they are very heavy, the case can not be taken apart, and all 3 of mine (one was replaced by mfg.) developed issues where they would not properly shut down. I've also had bad experiences with the HobbyWing. A friend has owned a few of them and all of them just started shutting off in the middle of the race. We suspect this is largely due to how much you have to heat the ESC in order to take off the massive wires that come pre-installed on the ESC. I have to wonder why a 1s ESC would come with 10awg wire soldered on from the factory. Not even the mod guys are going to run wire that thick in a 1s car. That and they are huge.
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Old 11-16-2014, 04:39 PM   #41630
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Hi guys.

Thanks so much for the quick replies. I should have been more specific about the motor setup. We have to run the Speed Passion v3 21.5 with fixed timing. We have specs on motor, battery, tires and gearing. The chassis, body and ESC are open (ROAR approved blinky is the spec on the esc).

Chris
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Old 11-16-2014, 04:44 PM   #41631
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Originally Posted by wingracer View Post
Have you tried a little less timing?

1s 21.5 isn't going to have any punch. That's kinda crazy slow.

The one problem with Tekins is that they are a bit slow from a standing start, especially with high motor timing.
A little slow would be ok. Two weeks ago the guy three spots behind me passed my before the 1st turn. This past weekend the 2nd place qualifier had to hit the breaks to not hit me as he was lined up right behind me (about 3-4' back). Keep in mind the cars are all running the same running gear EXCEPT the ESC. Same motor, battery and gearing. So they should all accelerate in a similar fashion. My car is the one of the fastest lap time wise and on the straight so I know the issue is not in the car itself.

As for being crazy slow... the straight is slow yes but the infield is pretty quick. This past weekend the fastest lap in 17.5 blinky was an 8.8 turned in by Dana Bailes. I turned in the fastest SPEC class lap with a 9.6 so about 8 tenths slower.
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Last edited by ccm399; 11-16-2014 at 04:54 PM.
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Old 11-16-2014, 04:51 PM   #41632
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Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
The Tekin has lights on it that blink for each of the 3 sensors as they are tripped. I would check to make sure these lights are flashing when the motor is turned. If they are not, and you have changed the sensor wire and sensor board then likely there is something broken in the ESC.
Hi there,

Can you point me to any documentation on this feature? I just tried to turn the motor and the only flashing I get is the ESC blinking the "blinky" mode sequence.

I just looked at the RS manual on Tekin's site and I don't see this in it. Is this maybe a Gen 2 feature?

EDIT: Found it... Off to test again. I am going to try taking the esc out of blinky mode 1st this time.

Thanks!

Chris
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Last edited by ccm399; 11-16-2014 at 05:03 PM.
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Old 11-16-2014, 05:00 PM   #41633
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Hi there,

Can you point me to any documentation on this feature? I just tried to turn the motor and the only flashing I get is the ESC blinking the "blinky" mode sequence.

I just looked at the RS manual on Tekin's site and I don't see this in it. Is this maybe a Gen 2 feature?

Thanks!

Chris
It's on the gen 1 too. They are very dim. You probably need to take it out of blinky mode to see it or the blinking overpowers them.
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Old 11-16-2014, 05:15 PM   #41634
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Originally Posted by wingracer View Post
It's on the gen 1 too. They are very dim. You probably need to take it out of blinky mode to see it or the blinking overpowers them.
Yep, found it. You are correct they are SUPER hard to see in blinky mode. Ok, so all three LED's do indeed flash when turning the motor so the wire and motor sensor appear OK.

As a side note when I took the esc out of blinky mode and ran it through the throttle the motor sounded smoother even at higher RPM. In blinky mode the motor sounds "rough" so to speak (even at full throttle).
Weird...
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Old 11-16-2014, 06:29 PM   #41635
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.

Last edited by Josh Keller; 11-17-2014 at 07:49 PM.
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Old 11-16-2014, 06:31 PM   #41636
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Originally Posted by Josh Keller View Post
How is everyone measuring/setting toe?
By eye. Always works for me. Yeah I know, not high tech but it works.
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Old 11-16-2014, 06:37 PM   #41637
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How is everyone measuring/setting toe?
I use a set of Vernier Calipers Check the distance Between the front of the 2 front Wheels. Note the distance then check the back Again note the Difference. I run between .25 and .75mm Split from Front to rear. Front always being more than the rear for Toe out.

Hope this helps
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Old 11-16-2014, 07:16 PM   #41638
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I use this: http://www.hudy.net/xhudy/products/p...hp?prod_id=382

Or you can try

http://www.stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...pl?pn=KYO36102
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Old 11-17-2014, 06:42 AM   #41639
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ccm399 View Post
Yep, found it. You are correct they are SUPER hard to see in blinky mode. Ok, so all three LED's do indeed flash when turning the motor so the wire and motor sensor appear OK.

As a side note when I took the esc out of blinky mode and ran it through the throttle the motor sounded smoother even at higher RPM. In blinky mode the motor sounds "rough" so to speak (even at full throttle).
Weird...
What ver. software are you using?
When you take it out of blinky mode, try it in sensored only, then try it in dual
mode. If it works in dual mode, but not sensored, then it is most likely a sensor problem. Also, have you tried a different motor?
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Old 11-17-2014, 07:59 AM   #41640
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So I'm curious, how do you guys set your camber? I have the Hudy setup and I noticed that it varies a bit from the actual camber I get with wheels on the car, the car on the ground, and using a against-the-wheel camber gauge.

So, say I set my camber to 1*, verifying it's 1* by tapping the center brace and poking the steering a tiny bit left and right... when I put the wheels back on and set the car down, one side isn't quite 1*, more like 1.5*. I think that has to do with a bit of play in the front end (12R5.2).

Which do you go by?
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