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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 10-27-2014, 03:48 PM   #41566
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
At think at the worlds the lower grip levels determined the compounds. My car was better on Blu/Blu after your advice and a few others (Thanks)

The most common tyres in the UK tends to be Magenta/Pink or sometimes Pink/Pink, but we have higher grip than the worlds.
Do the US drivers tend to use Blu even when grip is high?
Yep, we use blue and green rears even when traction is high. The blue rears especially feel a lot more consistent over the course of eight minutes when compared to a magenta or pink.

Blue fronts? More debatable, but I think most would use blue fronts in high traction as well. I think the blue fronts offer more steering than a magenta, and also retain that steering for the full run with very little change or fade. Some might go to a pink front in high traction to chill the car out, but the fade with a pink front is way too much for me, personally.
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Old 10-27-2014, 04:47 PM   #41567
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I haven't had a chance to run 1/12th since all these blues and yoke rubber and what not came out (though that will hopefully change soon) but before that my favorite combo was magenta all around with sometimes a pink rear and/or double pink front.
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Old 10-27-2014, 05:47 PM   #41568
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I had a problem running in modified at this years IIC. Basically I ran it because I wanted to get more laps on the track and I never get to run modified anywhere else, and I had fun with it and only broke the car once.

For some reason, every combination of tires I tried on the car in mod, CRC magenta/magenta, CRC magenta/pink, Ulti X med/X soft, and the like would perform inconsistently over the run. The car would start out with very little rear grip, then after a minute or two the rear would run-in and the car would be much more under control, but I had to stop to dial more steering into the car with the transmitter. My tire combos were not unusual, nor did I sauce much of the front tire (maybe 1/4 sauce) while the rears were fully sauced.

I just had to walk away from the event not knowing what tires and sauce to use that would make my car consistent over a run. Every run was the same: very little rear grip for the first minute, then it would run in and I turn up the steering dual rate. Then I could drive the car like I stole it.
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Old 10-27-2014, 07:53 PM   #41569
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Duh!

Last edited by Monti; 10-27-2014 at 08:15 PM.
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Old 10-27-2014, 08:15 PM   #41570
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wingracer View Post
.......blues and yoke rubber and what not came out (though that will hopefully change soon)
What does this mean, and please don't be vague.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DesertRat View Post
I had a problem running in modified at this years IIC. Basically I ran it because I wanted to get more laps on the track and I never get to run modified anywhere else, and I had fun with it and only broke the car once.

For some reason, every combination of tires I tried on the car in mod, CRC magenta/magenta, CRC magenta/pink, Ulti X med/X soft, and the like would perform inconsistently over the run. The car would start out with very little rear grip, then after a minute or two the rear would run-in and the car would be much more under control, but I had to stop to dial more steering into the car with the transmitter. My tire combos were not unusual, nor did I sauce much of the front tire (maybe 1/4 sauce) while the rears were fully sauced.

I just had to walk away from the event not knowing what tires and sauce to use that would make my car consistent over a run. Every run was the same: very little rear grip for the first minute, then it would run in and I turn up the steering dual rate. Then I could drive the car like I stole it.
With blues and greens I found that getting a smooth finish after truing is very important. Use a paddle like Gravity RC sells or knife sharpeners form harbor freight (three pack red, blue, or yellow) and drag them across the tires does wonders for starting well. If the tire is not super smooth like it has been ran then this issue occurs a lot. One other suggestion is to run scuff tires. Put a min on each set you will run and then race on them. In most cases I found re-run/scuff tires faster and more consistent. I know this is crazy talk in the 1/12 world but it works well.

One thing from the IIC is that the bite was really high and a lot of the A main mod guys went to green rears. Green rears allow the car to turn more due to side wall flex. This is really the main difference between the green and blue rears and it is how they should be used to tune. Slower classes like 17.5 should almost always be on green to allow on power rotation. In mod blue works better because they are more comfortable to drive and don't over rotate the car in the corner.

As for the UK, and with all due respect (I am a UK RC fan boy) but you chaps are behind the times on 1/12 tires. The rest of EU is starting to get it too so don't worry you are in good company. Maybe Mark Twain had it all wrong when he said the last place on earth to know the world has ended would be Cincinnati, maybe it is the UK? Haha all in good fun.

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Old 10-27-2014, 08:29 PM   #41571
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Originally Posted by Monti View Post
What does this mean, and please don't be vague.
Yok rubber, as in yokomo rubber as in all the new tires from the formerly super secret yokomo stuff like Ultis, CRC blu/green, etc.
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Old 10-27-2014, 08:33 PM   #41572
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Originally Posted by DesertRat View Post
nor did I sauce much of the front tire (maybe 1/4 sauce) while the rears were fully sauced.
This might sound weird but I suspect that may have been your problem. Some rubbers get pretty sticky during a run. Saucing them gets rid of that stickiness but if you were using the same fronts every run but only saucing part of them, they would still be really sticky on the unsauced portion making the car very loose. Try saucing the fronts completely but for less time than the rears. Sounds backwards but works for me.
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Old 10-27-2014, 09:52 PM   #41573
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Originally Posted by wingracer View Post
Yok rubber, as in yokomo rubber as in all the new tires from the formerly super secret yokomo stuff like Ultis, CRC blu/green, etc.
So, the CRC blue/grn are Yokomo rubber? How do they relate, Green=supersoft, blue=soft? D.blue=med/hard?
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Old 10-27-2014, 10:16 PM   #41574
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Monti View Post
One thing from the IIC is that the bite was really high and a lot of the A main mod guys went to green rears. Green rears allow the car to turn more due to side wall flex. This is really the main difference between the green and blue rears and it is how they should be used to tune. Slower classes like 17.5 should almost always be on green to allow on power rotation. In mod blue works better because they are more comfortable to drive and don't over rotate the car in the corner.
...
Monti
thanks for the background, but I am curious about the red and orange options, are these variations on the blue/green rubber?
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Old 10-27-2014, 10:29 PM   #41575
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thanks for the background, but I am curious about the red and orange options, are these variations on the blue/green rubber?
Yes they are a variation and where intended for asphalt (and excelled). Testing showed they did work on carpet but were not quite the same or as good as the blue/green. Over a year later we sent some more out for a re-evaluation and there was a few instances where they seemed to work well. As in all things nothing is certain. I still contend it's a particular type of conditions or way in which all the stars must align for these to be the best choice on carpet.

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Old 10-27-2014, 10:34 PM   #41576
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Originally Posted by wingracer View Post
Yok rubber, as in yokomo rubber as in all the new tires from the formerly super secret yokomo stuff like Ultis, CRC blu/green, etc.
If it is a super secret how do we really know?

Thank you for explaining.

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Old 10-28-2014, 12:06 AM   #41577
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Found this relic on Yahoo Auction Japan.
http://page4.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp...597#enlargeimg
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Old 10-28-2014, 03:43 AM   #41578
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Originally Posted by Monti View Post

As for the UK, and with all due respect (I am a UK RC fan boy) but you chaps are behind the times on 1/12 tires. The rest of EU is starting to get it too so don't worry you are in good company. Maybe Mark Twain had it all wrong when he said the last place on earth to know the world has ended would be Cincinnati, maybe it is the UK? Haha all in good fun.

Monti
You mean we think we should be using the Greene's and Blu's more?

We have our first 1/12 national this weekend (our 1/12 season is over the winter) so I will be testing those tyres etc to see if they help or slow me down.
Ran Blu/Blu at our small Friday night club last week and although they felt good to drive I'm not sure if they didn't put me slightly off pace with the faster guy there compared to when I ran Mag/Pink.

P.S. You haven't ridiculed the UK racing scene properly until you've made a comment about stick transmitters
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Old 10-28-2014, 05:00 AM   #41579
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What Ulti tires compares to Blu or Green?
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Old 10-28-2014, 06:39 AM   #41580
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Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
You mean we think we should be using the Greene's and Blu's more?

We have our first 1/12 national this weekend (our 1/12 season is over the winter) so I will be testing those tyres etc to see if they help or slow me down.
Ran Blu/Blu at our small Friday night club last week and although they felt good to drive I'm not sure if they didn't put me slightly off pace with the faster guy there compared to when I ran Mag/Pink.

P.S. You haven't ridiculed the UK racing scene properly until you've made a comment about stick transmitters
Yes I feel that the UK racers really need to invest some time into these compounds. I could be all wet, but the Asia and US markets have adapted quite well over the past year or more. The Scandinavia countries are starting to get on board too. At the same time if they don't work, pinks and magenta can still be made.

I know why the UK racing scene uses stick radios, it's to give everyone else a chance!

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