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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 09-29-2003, 08:30 AM   #4141
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www.teamspeedmerchant.com (under Rev. 3) has great description of why the old style front end is better. I havent really run the dynamic strut to be able to tell you what to do to it, sorry.

But basically the old style is more durable, less tweakable, consistant (in its molding, the new style front ends are horrible to build. they are all molded awfully, and you have to do a lot of work to make them fast and consistant.)
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Old 09-29-2003, 09:20 AM   #4142
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Thanks for all for the input on the front end. One more question...how is the Yokomo MS-1 body? I'm resisting getting a speed8 or a Ascari (don't think the Ascari would even fit over my old school electronics).
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Old 09-29-2003, 09:22 AM   #4143
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Hi,
Is anyone using the new IRS adjustable caster blocks for 1/12?
What are your impression of the different RC options?
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Old 09-29-2003, 09:32 AM   #4144
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The MS-1 really only makes Rear-end downforce, and it only does that at high speeds. It's a good body for a car with a "spongy" chassis on asphalt, but it's not well suited for carpet. Go with a Parma Speed 8. I'd recommend the "Trinity Speed 9" (exact Parma clone) but it weighs like it's molded in lead.
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Old 09-29-2003, 09:39 AM   #4145
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Quote:
Originally posted by Jimmyd
Hi,
Is anyone using the new IRS adjustable caster blocks for 1/12?
What are your impression of the different RC options?
Jimmyd - is it out already??if you're ordering it could u PM me...we can save shiping that way by the way i'm from SG also if you havent noticed
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Old 09-29-2003, 09:43 AM   #4146
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CMW: Lost something there....are you saying the MS-1 is heavy, the Parma is heavy, or the Trinity is heavy? Sounded like your recommending the Trinity, but then you said it was molded in lead, which I take to be heavy.....

Just re-read you post....Looks like your actually recommending the Parma?

I'm easy to confuse......
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Old 09-29-2003, 09:55 AM   #4147
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Quote:
Originally posted by Jimmyd
Hi,
Is anyone using the new IRS adjustable caster blocks for 1/12?
What are your impression of the different RC options?
Jimmyd - I've been using the IRS adjustable caster blocks for 1/12th scale since the beginning of the year. They are a huge improvement over the stock associated parts. The caster blocks and upper arms are both machined and are much more accurate then the stock molded parts. More important, there are many more settings to adjust handling. There are 4 mounting locations for the upper arm/caster block pin to adjust roll center and 2 rake angles to adjust the mount of reactive caster.
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Old 09-29-2003, 10:02 AM   #4148
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Mike D - i suppose the IRS caster block is currently available for team driver only , am i right??
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Old 09-29-2003, 10:10 AM   #4149
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Quote:
Originally posted by fReShJiVe
Mike D - i suppose the IRS caster block is currently available for team driver only , am i right??
fReShJiVe - I've been testing a prototype version of the front end. The production versions will incorporate manufacturing and design improvements and look pretty. I'm guessing they will be available in the next month. Not sure though.
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Old 09-29-2003, 10:13 AM   #4150
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Quote:
Originally posted by Mike D
fReShJiVe - I've been testing a prototype version of the front end. The production versions will incorporate manufacturing and design improvements and look pretty. I'm guessing they will be available in the next month. Not sure though.
ok cool!!keep us updated...thanks
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Old 09-29-2003, 10:31 AM   #4151
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Quote:
Originally posted by Graphitedust
CMW: Lost something there....are you saying the MS-1 is heavy, the Parma is heavy, or the Trinity is heavy? Sounded like your recommending the Trinity, but then you said it was molded in lead, which I take to be heavy.....

Just re-read you post....Looks like your actually recommending the Parma?

I'm easy to confuse......
Yes that post was not my most eloquent. Yeah Definitely the Parma. The MS-1 has too much rear bite, and the Trinity body is just a Parma that weighs TWICE AS MUCH.
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Old 09-29-2003, 12:45 PM   #4152
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CypressMidWest, thanks for the info on the MS-1. I've seen negative info on the Protoform Speed8, what's wrong with that body?
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Old 09-29-2003, 01:01 PM   #4153
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bro i have run the proto form one with added fins and larger spoiler and the car just aint stabile the body looks cool but it just dont run right i tried doing extra spoilers and ground effects with diffusers and the body dont work all i did was get the parma speed 8 and it was dialed.
for fun if you'd like buy one and try it out.
and see the differecnce!
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Old 09-29-2003, 01:19 PM   #4154
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I like the protoform bentley. It has more agressive steering than the parma. More steering, can you ask for more? :-) Try it, perhaps you'll like it
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Old 09-29-2003, 01:27 PM   #4155
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too much steering
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