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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 10-03-2014, 02:39 PM   #41476
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Aren't you a little short for a Stormtrooper?
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Old 10-03-2014, 04:06 PM   #41477
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post



Nice!


@RBFF

Is this the regular or light weight version ?

How does it feel compared with AMR-12 and TR-12 ?


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Old 10-03-2014, 07:39 PM   #41478
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Originally Posted by Clawhammers View Post
Nice!


@RBFF

Is this the regular or light weight version ?

How does it feel compared with AMR-12 and TR-12 ?


LW I think

Strakka very neutral
AMR has more mid corner grip
TR-12 Has more grip everywhere
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Old 10-04-2014, 12:07 PM   #41479
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
LW I think

Strakka very neutral
AMR has more mid corner grip
TR-12 Has more grip everywhere

Thanks for sharing Dave.

You've been very helpful with 12th threads.
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Old 10-04-2014, 12:36 PM   #41480
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Just recently browsed

New 1/12 Kyosho Plazma LM to be released in late November


1/12 PLAZMA Lm Toyota GT-One TS020 組立キット
30927C プラズマLM トヨタ GT-ONE TS020 NO.27

http://www.rc-champ.co.jp/net-car/in...ducts_id=42017

http://www.rakuseimodel.co.jp/online...0&seriesId=882



1/12 PLAZMA Lm 日産 R90CP 組立キット
30925C プラズマLM NISSAN R90CP

http://www.rc-champ.co.jp/net-car/in...ducts_id=42015

http://www.rakuseimodel.co.jp/online...0&seriesId=882



1/12 PLAZMA Lm ポルシェ962C 組立キット
30926C プラズマLM ポルシェ962C LM89ヨーストレーシング

http://www.rc-champ.co.jp/net-car/in...ducts_id=42016

http://www.rakuseimodel.co.jp/online...0&seriesId=882















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Old 10-04-2014, 12:43 PM   #41481
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I'm new to 1/12th scale w/lipos. Recently I purchased a CRC Xti Altered Ego w/ both transverse and inline battery options and have a couple questions.

What are the main differences that each battery position provides? I haven't raced in years and need the best configuration for drivability, not neccesssarily speed.

In each configuration how do you remove the battery? There doesn't seem to be enough room to get it out. Do you have to remove the shock every time, or is there an easier way?

Does it benefit weight balance to install the servo forward (between the front suspension arms?) Which way is better for neutral steering feel (ackerman?)

Any other suggestions for setting this car up for easy drivability while I re-learn to drive?

BTW, I'm racing on new Ozite glued to concrete on a medium size track with long a back straight, wide sweeping corners and a fairly compact chicane section.

Thanks for the help.

-Chad
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Old 10-06-2014, 02:22 AM   #41482
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I'm trying to better understand the front end of a 12th scale car and I think I read myself into a corner of confusion regarding static caster. Why is it that for my 12R5.2, moving the arms back (thicker shims in the front) results in a smaller caster angle? I know caster to be the angle the king pin makes with a vertical line... what am I missing?

Also, to summarize the effects of both static and reactive caster, I found this post:

Quote:
Caster: This is front grip. If you need more grip then move the upper arms forward. If its too much, move it back.
Reactive caster: This is where you want your grip. Going into the corner (10deg), even all the way threw the corner (5deg) or mid corner to exit (0deg).
That seems pretty straight forward, is there more to it that I should try to understand? Thanks!
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Old 10-06-2014, 04:25 AM   #41483
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Quote:
Originally Posted by metalnut View Post
I'm trying to better understand the front end of a 12th scale car and I think I read myself into a corner of confusion regarding static caster. Why is it that for my 12R5.2, moving the arms back (thicker shims in the front) results in a smaller caster angle? I know caster to be the angle the king pin makes with a vertical line... what am I missing?
On the 12r5.2 when you run a thicker shim on the front it moves the upper arm forward, reducing castor. This is because the shims are inside the arm as opposed to outside like the CRC setup. Its all in the arrangement of the shims and the upper arm.
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Old 10-06-2014, 06:50 AM   #41484
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whats a good starting point for tire size front and rear and how much of a split should be between front and rear size?
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Old 10-06-2014, 07:09 AM   #41485
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VA_Racer View Post
whats a good starting point for tire size front and rear and how much of a split should be between front and rear size?
I would suggest about a 1mm split. I typically start CRC tires at 41f and 42r for club racing (med bite). Smaller for larger events with high bite of course.
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Old 10-06-2014, 01:00 PM   #41486
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dontfeelcold View Post
On the 12r5.2 when you run a thicker shim on the front it moves the upper arm forward, reducing castor. This is because the shims are inside the arm as opposed to outside like the CRC setup. Its all in the arrangement of the shims and the upper arm.
Doh, you're completely right (obviously). This just shows you that no matter how basic a concept, trying to geometry at 1:30am may prove counterproductive.

Still curious about reactive/dynamic caster, though. The three or four summaries I've found don't agree on all points.
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Old 10-06-2014, 01:18 PM   #41487
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brian cox View Post
will a spektrum a5060 be a good servo for 1/12 1s 17.5 racing?
Thanks!
I have been using the H5020G. This is the 2nd year of racing on the servo with no grief as of yet. I would recommend it again without hesitation.
And its less than the a5060.
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Old 10-06-2014, 04:50 PM   #41488
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Hey guys, I got a new CRC XI on a trade. I was told it was unassembled. Not so, it was assembled but never run. I stripped it all down and did all the assembley tweeks and tricks so everything is free and doesn't bind. The CRC XL manual and the XI addendum don't list a tube lube as a staring point, nor does it say which springs come with the kit. Our track is approx 60'X90' CRC carpet. I have new CRC Magenta fronts and pink rears. I have also ordered some Dbl pink front and pink rears. We run 1S 13.5. Some direction on the tube lube and springs would help. I have a good selection of springs and lube. Just kinda looking for a starting point. Thanks!!!
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Old 10-06-2014, 04:55 PM   #41489
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I pretty much always use 10k diff fluid for side lube. 20k on occasion. I almost always use white side springs. Not sure what the equivalent is in the new springs.
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Old 10-06-2014, 06:18 PM   #41490
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Quote:
Originally Posted by THEBIGBULL View Post
Hey guys, I got a new CRC XI on a trade. I was told it was unassembled. Not so, it was assembled but never run. I stripped it all down and did all the assembley tweeks and tricks so everything is free and doesn't bind. The CRC XL manual and the XI addendum don't list a tube lube as a staring point, nor does it say which springs come with the kit. Our track is approx 60'X90' CRC carpet. I have new CRC Magenta fronts and pink rears. I have also ordered some Dbl pink front and pink rears. We run 1S 13.5. Some direction on the tube lube and springs would help. I have a good selection of springs and lube. Just kinda looking for a starting point. Thanks!!!
I think you may find the Mag./d D.pink too aggressive on the front for 13.5 blinky. Most of us run a hard front-Black/purple/chrome, and a soft rear-yellow/greylow/green.

As to the car, start with 15k, and soft side springs, 0.020 front spring, and soft shock spring/450cts oil. Roll-out 85mm, you should be in the ball park.
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