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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 09-28-2003, 05:27 AM   #4126
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good idea!

U dont hear of ppl tinkerin much its good to know there are others!

Was in my speedy the other day and accidentaly desoldered one of the surface mounted capacitors...........like 1mm by 1mm or something and had to resolder it with a 40watt iron with a 4mm tip!!!!!!!!!!!! Now that was so much fun.........

How do the associated L3's god with only 4 cells? are they a raely top end car?
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Old 09-28-2003, 08:53 AM   #4127
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Quote:
Originally posted by fReShJiVe
instead of using the circular spacer included in the 12L3 package...can i just use a carbon fiber plate which stretch the whole length of the t-bar to mount it on the rear pod plate...by doing this will i stiffen the side to side or just support the t-bar better to minimize breakage?i'm thinking of getting the latter effect...i've mounted it already and by feel there's no difference in the side to side movement..just wanna be sure

thanks
anyone
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Old 09-28-2003, 02:18 PM   #4128
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Default I think So

Fresh,

My RC10L comes with a spacer just like you are talking about. Full width, same size as the top of the T. This was original equipment. SO SURE! you can use a full size solid spacer. I think you will get a stiffer and not so breakable T Bar.

David Root
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Old 09-28-2003, 04:07 PM   #4129
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Default 4 cell stock body

Whats the best body for (road course) 4 cell stock ?

I currently have a P35 in .020, a Trinity Bently Speed 9 in .030 and an Ascari in .020
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Old 09-28-2003, 04:14 PM   #4130
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The ascari is the ticket (IMO). It is very durable (compaired to others, the lexan is just more flexable and less cracky for some reason).

The only thing tought about it is that your electronics have to be really low, since the body is SLAMMED. Also it gives great steering and rear grip.
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Old 09-28-2003, 04:18 PM   #4131
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K thanks....I'll start masking the Ascari
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Old 09-28-2003, 06:50 PM   #4132
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Default 1-800-JENNY

My car needs to go on a diet. Its tipping the scales at 880 grams, its a pig.

I dont think replacing electronics is an option, too much $$. Im running a cyclone, JR AM reciever, and a KO micro digital servo. I have the new front end, and Im still using damper disks.

I weighed by body today, its a Protoform Speed 8, it was 68 grams. Is that heavy for a 1/12 body?

Im basically looking for low cost weight reducing mods. Im running 4 cell 19T.

Thanks
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Old 09-28-2003, 07:34 PM   #4133
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Steve- before you paint or mask, mount the body, since its easier to see if anything is hitting (and more importantly where, so you can fix it).

paperboy- That car isnt that heavy. The correct ROAR limit is around 830grams (this years rulebook is wrong, its 100 grams under).

I dont how exactly how much each thing wieghs, however here are some suggestions...

-Body: if its a lightweight then you are fine, if you are really crazy then just use oil or spray can paint with a very light and simple paint job. otherwise, get a lightweight. and i would suggest getting a parma or trinity speed 8, or a proto ascari. The proto bently isnt really used by anyone. (there is a reason all proto factory drivers got Parma deals when they would have had to run the proto 8).

-I am not sure what kind of car it is, however if it is a car with any kind of dress kit, then get rid of it, and put the stock pieces on, they are most likely alot lighter. Also if it has upgraded bulkheads, go back to the stock ones, or one that will allow the graphite left side.

-front end, the dynamic strut is heavier than the old style, and if you are running stock the old style is better anyway.

-tires, big tires weigh more, also tires soaked with compound weigh more, thats one of the reasons why at big races guys run small tires and clean then after every run

Although to be completely honest, your car really shouldnt need to lose weight. in 19t its not going to kill you, unless you need that extra second or two in the 8 minute run, it shouldnt be nessessary to do much. Although if it makes you feel better its priceless
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Old 09-28-2003, 07:50 PM   #4134
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Well now I feel alot better. I was under the impression I was 150 grams overweight, lol. Now I feel alot better. Its a regular weight body, Ill switch to a leightweight, thats not too expensive.

Thanks
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Old 09-28-2003, 07:50 PM   #4135
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oopsie poopsie, double post
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Old 09-28-2003, 09:57 PM   #4136
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Default Servo for 12th scale..

Hi

I'm new to 12th scale. Just bought a used 12L3. Looking for opinions on servos - I've always used Airtronics in my TC and off road trucks.

Also any other set-up/build tips on the L3 would be appreciated. I will most likely run stock for now then 19 turn spec.

Thanks
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Old 09-28-2003, 11:43 PM   #4137
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Thanks Stormperson....will drill before I paint

Hey you perked my interest in the old style front end with your comment about how it's better in stock...can you elaborate on that topic a little ?? I'm starting out with the 0 blocks on my L3's dynamic front end setup as I have been thinking about way back when I had my 12i and how it felt compared to the 12LW I had when they first appeared...I remember it felt unpredictable or twitchy compared to the 12i

You think the 0 degree blocks will net me a steering feel close to what the old stlye would feel like ?

This winter should be fun....I have not raced a 12th scale car since 94
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Old 09-29-2003, 02:54 AM   #4138
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lem2: you wanna check out the track of Tito and Siokoy sometime soon? I wanna try out our 12th scale there.
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Old 09-29-2003, 05:03 AM   #4139
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What I did to reduce twitchyness was to put a second caster block, cut down, in between the arm and the block. I just cut the top off and used it as a spacer. It really made the car a lot more stable. Usually this makes the car push very badly, so I moved the ball ends on teh servo saver to the other side of the servo saver. That makes the car turn in hard, but its a lot more stable. I would reccomend giving this a try, if for nothing else than to experiment.

I did this on my L3, with the new front end.
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Old 09-29-2003, 05:55 AM   #4140
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Default Re: I think So

Quote:
Originally posted by David Root
Fresh,

My RC10L comes with a spacer just like you are talking about. Full width, same size as the top of the T. This was original equipment. SO SURE! you can use a full size solid spacer. I think you will get a stiffer and not so breakable T Bar.

David Root
david,

when you said stiffer and unbreakable t-bar ...does this means it is as stiff as using 3 spacer inclusive of the center one...by the way the long spacer that i have has no center hole as i have yet to drill a hole

thanks again
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