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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 09-16-2014, 07:27 PM   #41371
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Not quite so fast! haha We are still awaiting on white jaco 1/12 rims to arrive. Once the rims are in house, it will be only a couple of weeks before they are into the distribution channels

Monti
sorry, this is slightly off-topic, but when will the black jaco 1/10 (wgt) tires be available? have any shipped yet? if so, where are they available? thanks for the info.
Tony
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Old 09-16-2014, 08:39 PM   #41372
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sorry, this is slightly off-topic, but when will the black jaco 1/10 (wgt) tires be available? have any shipped yet? if so, where are they available? thanks for the info.
Tony
Nothing has been made to my knowledge, I know there is some white rim stuff floating around. You might want to try TQ racing.

The black rim (as I know it) isn't going to continue as a normal part number or really be made available prior to the IIC and is just going to be for the IIC. We have some white rim stuff in stock so just have your local hobby shop call and order.

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Old 09-17-2014, 09:13 AM   #41373
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Sorry; I should qualify that; there is carpet on concrete.
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Old 09-17-2014, 09:54 AM   #41374
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Sorry; I should qualify that; there is carpet on concrete.
What type of carpet, Ozite ?

Is it a permanent track, or is the rug rolled out only for club racing

Which tires are you using, what size, how long are you saucing
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Old 09-17-2014, 08:20 PM   #41375
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Originally Posted by Monti View Post
Nothing has been made to my knowledge, I know there is some white rim stuff floating around. You might want to try TQ racing.

The black rim (as I know it) isn't going to continue as a normal part number or really be made available prior to the IIC and is just going to be for the IIC. We have some white rim stuff in stock so just have your local hobby shop call and order.

Monti
ok, thanks for the info. If the IIC tires are just a color change then I can prepare with the current white version. (I have been running the BSR tire for past few years so need to adjust)
this concludes my thread hijacking.
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Old 09-18-2014, 08:18 AM   #41376
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Quick question about a beginners car.

Choice is between the VBC Lightning and the Xray X12 '15. The VBC is cheaper, but I have no real information about durability. I'm assuming the Xray will be built like a tank as usual, but I'll be up for probably another $80-$100 kit cost.

I thought about 2nd hand but there isn't much of a 1/12th scene in Australia and hence very few cars going on the market.

Thanks for any input.
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Old 09-18-2014, 09:31 AM   #41377
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On The Lightning just replace the turnbuckles, on the upper arms ( I used Associated ) and you are good to go. most of the parts are compatible with RC125.2. Easy to get spares if needed. The build quality is as good as Xray x12'14, I have the one of those too.
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Old 09-18-2014, 09:53 AM   #41378
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What type of carpet, Ozite ?

I assume its Ozite; standard grey carpet rack.

Is it a permanent track, or is the rug rolled out only for club racing

Its rolled out.

Which tires are you using, what size, how long are you saucing

I was using magentas front and rear; and I try to give it as much time to dry; it might be 50 minutes between heats I'm not sure. On any event its still wet a little when it hits the track. Either I give it too much or I'm not giving enough time maybe. These tires were trued down to 43mm? rear, can't remember the front; maybe 41. I wrote it down but I have a 3mm ride height.

We race in an older building so the temp is a little cooler; not so much the fall though.
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Old 09-18-2014, 11:15 AM   #41379
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Originally Posted by irvinew View Post
What type of carpet, Ozite ?

I assume its Ozite; standard grey carpet rack.

Is it a permanent track, or is the rug rolled out only for club racing

Its rolled out.

Which tires are you using, what size, how long are you saucing

I was using magentas front and rear; and I try to give it as much time to dry; it might be 50 minutes between heats I'm not sure. On any event its still wet a little when it hits the track. Either I give it too much or I'm not giving enough time maybe. These tires were trued down to 43mm? rear, can't remember the front; maybe 41. I wrote it down but I have a 3mm ride height.

We race in an older building so the temp is a little cooler; not so much the fall though.
Sounds like you are on track with tire prep

I've run on rug covering concrete before, don't recall any odd grip issues ?

When you say the sauce doesn't help
Are you loosing all grip, or just balance front to rear ?

From my experience, Sticky kicks didn't have as much grip, or last nearly as long as SXT
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Old 09-18-2014, 01:53 PM   #41380
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Sounds like you are on track with tire prep

I've run on rug covering concrete before, don't recall any odd grip issues ?

When you say the sauce doesn't help
Are you loosing all grip, or just balance front to rear ?

From my experience, Sticky kicks didn't have as much grip, or last nearly as long as SXT
I guess overall grip; at least in the first few laps until the tires burn off the sauce.

I guess I have my answer here and you should use tire sauce in 1/12 foam tires. To my knowledge sauce is meant to break down and expose new rubber which would in turn produce better grip.

If the foam tire soaks the sauce for all its worth I didn't really see how sauce could even help at all.

I wasn't sure if the concept applied to foam tires only touring car rubber tires.

I might try Yellows at back and blacks up front and apply sauce very sparingly.

Sorry for the rookie question and thanks for the help.
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Old 09-18-2014, 03:55 PM   #41381
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Sorry for the novice question but here goes.

I find that putting sauce on my foam tires; at least in the beginning before the tires dry out from 3 laps or so; doesn't really help.

But I can't help wonder why you use sauce on foam tires anyway. Isn't the sauce suppose to wear down the rubber; in TC for example; thus exposing new rubber? If that is true then since the foam simply sucks the additive in like a sponge why do we add tire sauce to foam? The traction cpd isn't really glue after all.

I have either used sticky fingers or corally sxt.

Shouldn't I just use a softer compound tire? We run in a old curling rink (concrete floor) and thus I assume the track takes longer to heat up.
In general tire sauce softens the foam of a foam tire and helps to prevent it from drying out.

Have you considered the issue may not be the sauce you are using but the process you use to cut the tires down? Fresh cut tires are more aggressive than tires with a few laps on them. Especially if you do not use a sanding stick on the surface after cutting them. Using a sanding stick does help in make the tires more consistent but doesn't eliminate it entirely. Fresh cut tires are rougher and have more edges to grip so until they have a few laps on them they will be more aggressive. This is something I've had to learn about carpet racing...still haven't quite got it down yet but working on it
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Old 09-18-2014, 06:39 PM   #41382
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Just in the process of setting up my cars for the coming season and started looking closer at steering geometry and had a question that I thought I'd post on here.

What is the importance of the servo horn lining up directly in the middle of the chassis?

I have a few different servo's and some of them line up better with the mounting points to align the servo down the center of the chassis than others.

Thoughts?

Cheers!
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Old 09-18-2014, 07:40 PM   #41383
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I guess overall grip; at least in the first few laps until the tires burn off the sauce.

I guess I have my answer here and you should use tire sauce in 1/12 foam tires. To my knowledge sauce is meant to break down and expose new rubber which would in turn produce better grip.

If the foam tire soaks the sauce for all its worth I didn't really see how sauce could even help at all.

I wasn't sure if the concept applied to foam tires only touring car rubber tires.

I might try Yellows at back and blacks up front and apply sauce very sparingly.

Sorry for the rookie question and thanks for the help.
traction additives are just that, they increase the grip of the foam, for a given shore rating. decreased shore will also improve grip but with higher wear rates and with a more bouncy or floaty(?) feeling.

first question to ask is what tire sauce is allowed at your local track. is there an 'odorless' rule or any specific restriction? if there is no restriction and others are using Paragon, then start using Paragon.

if there is an odorless rule then try corally 'Jack the Gripper' or 'SXT3.0'.

before applying the sauce make certain the tires are clean. this won't seem necessary until you have seen the difference between dirty and clean foam. motor spray works great, some like to use lighter fluid, SXT makes a cleaner but it needs to soak in. (you can put motor spray on a towel and just wipe, with sxt cleaner you need to rub it in and let it soak. motor spray sounds better but I have found that you need to sauce longer after cleaning with motor spray, it seems to dry out the rubber more than the sxt cleaner.

black/yellow will stay cleaner than magenta/pink, but either should be good for the first 2 minutes.

so:
1) clean the tires, and let dry a few minutes (5-10?)
2) add full sauce (on both front and rear to start) and let soak for 20 minutes (maybe less on the front, maybe more on the rear, adjust after you try any starting pt.
3) wipe the tires dry, put on the body and race

if you leave the tires soaking wet, you will need a couple laps for the tires to 'come in' but this is just letting the carpet wipe the excess off the tires.

try this and share your experience. (I am no expert but have also been very frustrated by very similar experiences)

best of luck
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Old 09-18-2014, 07:56 PM   #41384
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Originally Posted by lpittman View Post
Just in the process of setting up my cars for the coming season and started looking closer at steering geometry and had a question that I thought I'd post on here.

What is the importance of the servo horn lining up directly in the middle of the chassis?

I have a few different servo's and some of them line up better with the mounting points to align the servo down the center of the chassis than others.

Thoughts?

Cheers!
Having the servo in the exact middle of the chassis is extremely important to making the car handle well. I am a sticker for it, I can feel a 5 thousandths error in the centering of my servo.
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Old 09-19-2014, 12:47 AM   #41385
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I'm sorry, I should have been more specific. I broke one of the front damper tubes when pushing it into the arm

It's a unique part so I'll be waiting for parts from Japan. Just one of the joys of owning a weird Japanese chassis

Finished up the build tonight. fit and finish is really, very good. The shock is super smooth and the rear damper tubes are very precise (both stick and tube made from machined aluminum). I was just barely able to make 172mm width at the back with Pro-one hubs.


Hello
I would like to know does the FX3 need to use the wheel from Kawada only?
can it attached with other 1/12 wheel & tires like Shepherd or Jaco?
Thanks a lot!

Billy
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