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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 09-05-2014, 01:52 PM   #41296
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FireRacer88 View Post
Looking for a real honest opinion from someone that has experience with the VBC and the Associated...I have read everything I can and looked at everything on here and I just can't decide what to pull the trigger on...anyone have any insights?
The VBC and AE have very similar geometry. The AE pod is slightly narrower than the VBC rear pod, but that is about it. As such, the cars drive very similarly. The biggest difference, honestly, is that the AE chassis is solid while the VBC chassis has a lot of cutouts underneath the battery. I think this makes the VBC a little more forgiving to drive on higher traction, but the difference is very very small.

I think the VBC pod design is nicer looking than the AE (and potentially has a lower CG), but I can understand wanting to use AE so you can use standard ride height inserts.

I also think the VBC front end has some nice options (caster block spacers and different length braces, for instance), but you will want to order the hardened upper links right away if you run on a track with boards.

AE parts are easy to get almost anywhere, but with the new US VBC Racing (vbcracingusa.com) and the other dealers (such as Timezone), it is really easy to get VBC parts as well. Overall, I would recommend the VBC (I think it looks sexier), but the differences between the two are very very minor and I think you will have a solid car with either choice.
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Old 09-05-2014, 02:20 PM   #41297
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Originally Posted by Kave View Post
To be honest the answers you are looking for simply don't exist. Both cars can be made to drive essentially the same and both have basically the same setup options and changes. What this means is that neither is going to be easier to setup or easier to drive. If you are looking for the "one car is so much better then the other answer" all you are getting is a bias opinion. Which car do you like the looks of more? Run that.
In 12th the driver wins, not the car. You can make any car a winner if you have the talent at both set-up and driving.

Josh Cyrul has swept up this year with a car design that first saw the light of day in 1986. Sure, the materials and manufacturing techniques have improved, but essentially that Speedmerchant is a 12LW from 1987.

Associated have usually hired the best drivers and thus have won more major 12th races than anyone else. Recently they have rowed back from a high investment in their 12th team, so the drivers they might have picked up are driving other chassis.

Buy what you like and take a set-up from their website to get you going. It's building it properly that is the key, so screw the build of any 12th car and it will be a nightmare.

I am a long-standing AE fan and driver. However, if asked I would point a newcomer to the Xray because their instructions are the best there is for 12th and their quality means it is difficult to build badly.

HTH
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Old 09-05-2014, 02:56 PM   #41298
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Josh Cyrul has swept up this year with a car design that first saw the light of day in 1986. Sure, the materials and manufacturing techniques have improved, but essentially that Speedmerchant is a 12LW from 1987.
Ouch

Aside from a similar front end, really dude

Agree on all points about driving and setup though
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Old 09-05-2014, 06:32 PM   #41299
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Originally Posted by EAMotorsports View Post
I use the Xray front end but I use Xenon pivot balls, hing pins and steering blocks. Had this front end on my car for well over a year and it would be very hard to find a 12th scale with less slop. Granted its not the cheapest route to go but it will take the slop out and will not wear out. I used the AE components before Xenon ones came out.

The new xray 15 will have some changes to the front end to help with the slop in generates as well as some new adjustments the front end didnt have before.

EA
Where can you get the xenon parts?
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Old 09-05-2014, 06:38 PM   #41300
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Maybe here http://www.reflexracing.net/RSD-Upgrades_c_115-2.html
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Old 09-05-2014, 07:06 PM   #41301
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Where can you get the xenon parts?
http://xenon.ocnk.net
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Old 09-06-2014, 12:46 AM   #41302
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Originally Posted by FireRacer88 View Post
Well Frank, in all honesty money....i can get a 1/12 vbc for 189....and i can get an associated from tower on easy pay and break it apart...that is the honest answer...plus I haven't read up on it (which I will now) and I have seen plenty of CRC guys at Snowbirds the last couple years I went...just never thought about it.
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Originally Posted by Frank Root View Post
Altered Ego is $199.99 on CRC's site (http://teamcrc.com/crc/modules.php?n...prodID=7719609).

Comes with a bit of goodies, and CRC also has great tires and bodies that work well in tandem with the chassis.

Just wanted to let you know so you can have a look at it as well.
$189 at Stormer

http://www.stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...=ns&pn=CRC3212
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Old 09-06-2014, 03:29 AM   #41303
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Ouch

Aside from a similar front end, really dude

Agree on all points about driving and setup though
Well, perhaps a bit of poetic licence...!

Both have a solid rear pod, a central pivot with spring mechanism, and central spring/damper and, as you say, the same front end design with a connecting flat chassis.

Sure, things have improved through refinement of the design, and better materials and manufacturing techniques, but essentially its genesis goes right back to that 1987 car.

Perhaps more to the point it is like a Porsche 911 today compared to the original Porsche 356 - a triumph of engineering over design!
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Old 09-06-2014, 12:22 PM   #41304
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Front end similar...rear suspensions in 86 were mostly t-plate cars
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Old 09-06-2014, 02:22 PM   #41305
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Carpet season is around the corner her on the North East!

With the d3.5 banned whats the hot motors for 13.5 and 17.5?
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Old 09-06-2014, 02:49 PM   #41306
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Carpet season is around the corner her on the North East!

With the d3.5 banned whats the hot motors for 13.5 and 17.5?

I just picked up a D4 17.5 and will let you know how it goes... I also looked greatly at the SchuurSpeed as a second option.
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Old 09-06-2014, 05:02 PM   #41307
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Carpet season is around the corner her on the North East!

With the d3.5 banned whats the hot motors for 13.5 and 17.5?
Team Scream Racing. Great motors, come pre-tuned, just gear it and go.
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Old 09-06-2014, 09:27 PM   #41308
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Hi All Fellow 1/12 scale lovers. I have a question. When the grip comes up on carpet what is everyone doing to get rid of Traction Roll.
I'm running MOD with some great lap times but when the grip comes up we are flipping over a lot. I'm not experienced with Carpet racing and need all the help i can get.

Any advise is appreciated.
Cheers
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Old 09-06-2014, 09:35 PM   #41309
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Originally Posted by Aza088 View Post
Hi All Fellow 1/12 scale lovers. I have a question. When the grip comes up on carpet what is everyone doing to get rid of Traction Roll.
I'm running MOD with some great lap times but when the grip comes up we are flipping over a lot. I'm not experienced with Carpet racing and need all the help i can get.

Any advise is appreciated.
Cheers
Less sauce, different sauce, time saucing

Smaller Tires, different tires, ca on tires

Lower ride height

Can you give us a hint at your setup ?
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Old 09-06-2014, 11:26 PM   #41310
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Looking for roll out with 10.5 blinky and boosted.
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