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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 09-02-2014, 04:22 PM   #41281
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CristianTabush View Post
I need some suggestions from all of you 12th scale masters.

2 weeks ago we switched to Jaco green sedan tires from panaracer 28s. The jaco tire seemed to be very good on our track at first, making the 12th scale cars go faster thn before. Unfortunately as more of the rubber tire grooved the track up, we started experiencing a slimy build up of the silicone from the Jacos build up on the track. This is good for the sedans, but it makes the 12th scale tires get real sticky and pick up small fibers on the tires. This in turn leads to severe drop off in grip about 4-6 minutes in to a run.

So far we have tried Green rear, blue rear, gray rear, ulti jm rear, world gt tires and no luck.

It seems the softer tires with softer springs are better and while they are about 1-2 tenths slower I can get the tires to be so-so at the end of the run (this is with greens).

In the past, we ran sorex 28 and the track would get pick up but a green rear or ulti x soft did pretty good. When we switched to panaracers, we were able to go blue. But with the jaco greens nothing is working so far.

We use sxt 3.0 and I also tried lcg, which both seemed the same. I clean the tires after every run and let them dry out before sauce. Tried long and short sauce times and gave about the same result.

I read so somewhere that when you get pick up, you go softer tires? This seemed to do the trick in the past, so I guess we would need softer than green tire.

Do anyone of you guys have any insight on this? Any suggestions of changes to a different compound or additive? I don't want to have to do away with the current sedan tires, but if that's the case, we will as last resort.
I think you might need to go to synthetic foams, like Black, Gray, or Yellow compounds. These tend to get less gummy/sticky and vs natural (pink family) and Japanese (blue/green) foam from what I have experienced. So you might want to try a black or gray front tire with a yellow, graylow, or gray rear tire.
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Old 09-04-2014, 08:35 PM   #41282
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Currently I run a CRC R8C body in 17.5 1/12. Is this the best option for this class? Are any of the other bodies just as good?
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Old 09-04-2014, 08:40 PM   #41283
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Currently I run a CRC R8C body in 17.5 1/12. Is this the best option for this class? Are any of the other bodies just as good?
ProtoForm AMR is good. I've heard good things about the Parma Speed 8, I have yet to try it.
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Old 09-04-2014, 08:44 PM   #41284
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Originally Posted by letrbuk View Post
Currently I run a CRC R8C body in 17.5 1/12. Is this the best option for this class? Are any of the other bodies just as good?
That r8c is my absolute favorite body in 17.5. The only other body I've kept trying is the amr12. Didn't like it in the least. The downforce of the r8c feels smoother (if I can describe it that way) to me. My 12r5.2 was just plain faster with it. But I think 2 or 3 of us was running this body; everyone else was running the amr12.
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Old 09-04-2014, 09:27 PM   #41285
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I have run the R8C and it's pretty good, but for some reason the CRC Black Market, AKA "mohawk", seems to be more my style.
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Old 09-04-2014, 09:32 PM   #41286
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I have run the R8C and it's pretty good, but for some reason the CRC Black Market, AKA "mohawk", seems to be more my style.
That body is a good one as well.
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Old 09-04-2014, 09:47 PM   #41287
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Got my CRC order today. I've got all the stuff to get my build on starting tonight. I'll get some photos posted when I am closer to complete.
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Old 09-05-2014, 11:12 AM   #41288
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I guess I'll be sticking with the R8C for now.
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Old 09-05-2014, 11:49 AM   #41289
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Looking for a real honest opinion from someone that has experience with the VBC and the Associated...I have read everything I can and looked at everything on here and I just can't decide what to pull the trigger on...anyone have any insights?
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Old 09-05-2014, 12:09 PM   #41290
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Looking for a real honest opinion from someone that has experience with the VBC and the Associated...I have read everything I can and looked at everything on here and I just can't decide what to pull the trigger on...anyone have any insights?
If those are your two options, I would recommend whichever your local hobby shop has parts for in stock, which is likely the Associated. Any 1/12 car can be world champion, it just needs the right driver, setup, and some luck.
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Old 09-05-2014, 12:15 PM   #41291
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If those are your two options, I would recommend whichever your local hobby shop has parts for in stock, which is likely the Associated. Any 1/12 car can be world champion, it just needs the right driver, setup, and some luck.
Thanks but not the opinion i was looking for...my local hobby shop is offroad...yes they can order stuff just like me...im talking about....easy setup, drive ability...things like that
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Old 09-05-2014, 12:23 PM   #41292
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Thanks but not the opinion i was looking for...my local hobby shop is offroad...yes they can order stuff just like me...im talking about....easy setup, drive ability...things like that
Why not CRC? They are a company focused on pancar racing, with 1/12 being their bread and butter...
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Old 09-05-2014, 12:29 PM   #41293
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Why not CRC? They are a company focused on pancar racing, with 1/12 being their bread and butter...
Well Frank, in all honesty money....i can get a 1/12 vbc for 189....and i can get an associated from tower on easy pay and break it apart...that is the honest answer...plus I haven't read up on it (which I will now) and I have seen plenty of CRC guys at Snowbirds the last couple years I went...just never thought about it.
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Old 09-05-2014, 12:48 PM   #41294
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FireRacer88 View Post
Looking for a real honest opinion from someone that has experience with the VBC and the Associated...I have read everything I can and looked at everything on here and I just can't decide what to pull the trigger on...anyone have any insights?
Quote:
Originally Posted by FireRacer88 View Post
Thanks but not the opinion i was looking for...my local hobby shop is offroad...yes they can order stuff just like me...im talking about....easy setup, drive ability...things like that
Quote:
Originally Posted by FireRacer88 View Post
Well Frank, in all honesty money....i can get a 1/12 vbc for 189....and i can get an associated from tower on easy pay and break it apart...that is the honest answer...plus I haven't read up on it (which I will now) and I have seen plenty of CRC guys at Snowbirds the last couple years I went...just never thought about it.
To be honest the answers you are looking for simply don't exist. Both cars can be made to drive essentially the same and both have basically the same setup options and changes. What this means is that neither is going to be easier to setup or easier to drive. If you are looking for the "one car is so much better then the other answer" all you are getting is a bias opinion. Which car do you like the looks of more? Run that.
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Old 09-05-2014, 01:04 PM   #41295
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Well Frank, in all honesty money....i can get a 1/12 vbc for 189....and i can get an associated from tower on easy pay and break it apart...that is the honest answer...plus I haven't read up on it (which I will now) and I have seen plenty of CRC guys at Snowbirds the last couple years I went...just never thought about it.
Altered Ego is $199.99 on CRC's site (http://teamcrc.com/crc/modules.php?n...prodID=7719609).

Comes with a bit of goodies, and CRC also has great tires and bodies that work well in tandem with the chassis.

Just wanted to let you know so you can have a look at it as well.
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