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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 09-26-2003, 09:07 AM   #4111
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Default Re: 1/12th front ends

Quote:
Originally posted by Brolzy
I'm thinking about changing front ends on my 12L3 from the dynamic to the old style one, and I have a few questions. First, is there anyone out there that still makes shims for the old front end? Second, what's the diffrence in the springs between the two...I know the old style has less travel, but how should I change my setup when changing over. I'm running 20 springs on the dynamic front end right now, and I like a lot of steering (can drive a loose car better than a pushing car).
Brolzy,
The old style front end comes with 2 degree caster shims. The caster shims are really all you need. If anything, the front end needs to be shaved on the bottom a little to gain some ride height with smaller tires.

D.P.
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Old 09-26-2003, 09:16 AM   #4112
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Default Dpowell

Quote:
Originally posted by DPowell
lem2,
Thanks for your comments about my Quad12 conversion. Some of the features of the Quad12 are inspired by other cars but there are important features that are new. The battery slots are placed as close to the T-bar as possible. This allows the car to transition quickly and smoothly. The bottom pod plate has a small notch at the back along the centerline of the car. This helps in checking width and tweak. The batteries are held down in 3 places, making the Cell Rentention System very secure. I'm showing the old style front end in the picture, but the car works equally well with the dynamic front end.

D.P.
hi, sir sorry I think you got me wrong.
I purchased the exact chassis from RCmodel.com, its a conversion chassis for the RC12L3 which they sell and I think they manufacture locally in HK, it was written on the picture that dandyspashett posted. I was pertaining to that particular chassis posted, not the quad12.

If only I knew that the quad12 sooner I would have gotten that.
But its all too late now for us 1/12th lovers here in P.I. Our only carpet track is closing shop. Too bad 1/12th did not catch up.

Sorry for the mis-understanding.

Peace and happy racing!!
Lemuel N. Pia
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Old 09-26-2003, 09:19 AM   #4113
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dpowell - in the picture that you earlier posted i saw that the t-bar is in blue color...is that t-bar a custom made by you??what's the material and thickness of it??how would u rate it in terms of reliability /strength against the associated t-bar...thanks

by the way...could u PM me the cost of the conversion??i'm just curious
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Old 09-26-2003, 09:31 AM   #4114
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anyone tried the new digital Hitec 5245 mini servo on their 12th scale??
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Old 09-26-2003, 10:16 AM   #4115
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Quote:
Originally posted by fReShJiVe
dpowell - in the picture that you earlier posted i saw that the t-bar is in blue color...is that t-bar a custom made by you??what's the material and thickness of it??how would u rate it in terms of reliability /strength against the associated t-bar...thanks

by the way...could u PM me the cost of the conversion??i'm just curious
freshjive,
The blue T-bar in the picture is made by me. The material is the same as other T-bars just blue in color. I have black also. My T-bars are just a few thousandths thicker than the standard Team Associated T-bar. I'm testing some variations on shape as well.

I'll send you a PM with details about the Quad12.

D.P.
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Old 09-26-2003, 10:21 AM   #4116
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the hitec servo is inaccurate.
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Old 09-26-2003, 10:37 AM   #4117
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Powell, Are you going to mass produce your car? let us know more details here


I thought to design a totally different car from associated based cars like this

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Old 09-26-2003, 11:13 AM   #4118
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Quote:
Originally posted by dandyspashett
Powell, Are you going to mass produce your car? let us know more details here


I thought to design a totally different car from associated based cars like this

dandyspashett,
I'm producing the kit in small quantities at the moment. I'm looking to farm out some of the work to increase production.

By the way, the car pictured in your link is a Kyosho Plazma. That design is about 15 years old.

D.P.
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Old 09-26-2003, 11:22 AM   #4119
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dandy the chassis plate by t powell is no where near to the yrx plate i have both cars and since recieving the quad 12 car i parked the yrx for having too much flex plus the factor support stunk!
dpowells car is has a wider front track and slightly shorter than the yrx car which is the reason the car is more stabile and turns on a dime! when i got the yrx 12 it took me about a month to get the car to work on asphalt ! with mild bracing in the front and the rear . but when i went to carpet i had to glue a second chassis ontop yea the car worked but then it carried the xtra wieght of two plates.
so i started doing reaserch on onther car and came across dpowells car NO TAPE !
got my attention so i orderd it and was dialed since the first battery pack on the carpet then the following weekend raced on the asphalt and the car was just as dialed dandy go ahead park the yrx and get the quad 12 you wont be diassapointed as far as the battery placement they almost sit atop of the t-plate which brings the wieght further in word so the car turns left and right with out having to transfer much wieght quicker the car turns!
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Old 09-26-2003, 11:23 AM   #4120
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doug i think the chassis pictured is one of the japanese market cars we dont get here the plasma car was six cell if i am not mistaken! straight pack at that!
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Old 09-26-2003, 02:14 PM   #4121
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Just some notes about the old style front end...

Camber: To add it, take a header card from a parts bag (that thick paper) and cut a small strip, like .2 of an inch, by an inch and a half (around) and then place it under the arm (on the outside of the chassis). It will lean the arm and give it camber.

No more e-clips: How to install a set screw. Take out the eclips (and then make sure to add shims, since any undampened play is REALLY bad) and then cut off the front part of the steering knuckle that sticks out (to limit steering travel, which is completley useless these days), and then drill a hole so that you can place a set screw into the hingepin. Then put a flat spot on the kingpin to keep it from moving.
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Old 09-26-2003, 04:29 PM   #4122
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i think buds sells the old school front ends modified already
plus dpowell run it on his quad 12 i like the dynamic front end just because they are more tunabile which i am sure alot of the guys run them i know that dpowell like them on the quad 12 because they take a beating and other guys think they stay more consistant than the dynamic front end but then again ive never had a problem with them
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Old 09-26-2003, 05:27 PM   #4123
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instead of using the circular spacer included in the 12L3 package...can i just use a carbon fiber plate which stretch the whole length of the t-bar to mount it on the rear pod plate...by doing this will i stiffen the side to side or just support the t-bar better to minimize breakage?i'm thinking of getting the latter effect...i've mounted it already and by feel there's no difference in the side to side movement..just wanna be sure

thanks
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Old 09-26-2003, 05:49 PM   #4124
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Quote:
Originally posted by fReShJiVe
instead of using the circular spacer included in the 12L3 package...can i just use a carbon fiber plate which stretch the whole length of the t-bar to mount it on the rear pod plate...by doing this will i stiffen the side to side or just support the t-bar better to minimize breakage?i'm thinking of getting the latter effect...i've mounted it already and by feel there's no difference in the side to side movement..just wanna be sure

thanks
Yes I use the cut out AE chassis as spacer. Since the chassis that I got from H.K. was way to flexy and I CA the stock chassis after cuting it to make it stiffer. Wish I had known the Quad12 sooner!
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Old 09-28-2003, 04:27 AM   #4125
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Default More on Reciever packs

I tried something different this year. I have some occasional glitching problems with my 1/12 scale. I have been blaming it on 4.8 volt power to the rec.

I bought a six inch futaba servo extension. I seperated the three wires in the extensionand cut the red one in the middle. I then soldered the end that plugs into the reciever to the + side of an AAA battery. The other piece of the red wire goes to the - side of the AAA battery. Plug the extension in between the ESC and radio, and you now have 6 volts going to the radio and reciever. Still use your switch and everything. Tried it out last night around the house and no problems. Going Racing with it tomorrow night. I see no problems yet and don't expect any.

MAKE SURE THE + SIDE OF THE AAA BATTERY GOES TOWARDS THE RECIEVER.

David Root
All Fired up cause carpet season is here!
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