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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 08-27-2014, 08:27 PM   #41221
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What happens if you run tires straight out of the package and don't shave em down? Also the CRC 1/12th scale I'm picking up comes with the alter ego conversion kit. Should I put that on right away or just run it stock for awhile?
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Old 08-28-2014, 08:40 AM   #41222
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Originally Posted by Jcozz View Post
What happens if you run tires straight out of the package and don't shave em down? Also the CRC 1/12th scale I'm picking up comes with the alter ego conversion kit. Should I put that on right away or just run it stock for awhile?
Although I haven't run yet, all the feedback I've gotten on the CRC car is that the Altered Ego is the way to go.
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Old 08-28-2014, 09:22 AM   #41223
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jcozz View Post
What happens if you run tires straight out of the package and don't shave em down? Also the CRC 1/12th scale I'm picking up comes with the alter ego conversion kit. Should I put that on right away or just run it stock for awhile?
Not sure on the Alter Ego question.

If you don't cut tires down the car will really suffer when traction comes up, as the larger sidewalls will make the car more prone to traction rolling (especially if you also have trouble getting the ride height down.) The best way to summarize it is that the car won't be as good feeling or as fast if you run larger tires. Unless you run on asphalt, in which case larger sidewalls will help a lot.

Bigger tires will also chunk more easily, which tends to negate one of the reasons why people don't want to cut tires down (more runs out of a single set.) If you chunk the shit out of them and end up not able to use them, what have you gained?

Also depends on the tire brand and how big they are out of the bag.
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Old 08-28-2014, 10:46 AM   #41224
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I'm just looking for some life out of my tires. Don't want to go through a set of tires a day. I'm always at the track practicing.
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Old 08-28-2014, 10:54 AM   #41225
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Depends on the tire. Jaco's probably need some trimming. But Gravity's are perfect for club racing at 45mm out of the tube.
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Old 08-28-2014, 11:21 AM   #41226
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On asphalt I run the tires straight out of the package. They are a tad out of round but I'd rather have the extra 1 run I would cut off of them. On carpet I wouldn't run them that big.
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Old 08-28-2014, 11:38 AM   #41227
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Madulla View Post
Depends on the tire. Jaco's probably need some trimming. But Gravity's are perfect for club racing at 45mm out of the tube.
Going to have to disagree with that, 45mm is still too big for any kind of semi competitive club racing on carpet.

If you want to get some life out of your tires try running a blue or green compound. Both of those will give you a lot more life then some of the softer other types of rubber. You could cut them down to something like 42mm and still get a dozen or more runs no problem.
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Old 08-28-2014, 01:46 PM   #41228
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It really depends on the grip level
I like to at least skim new tires to start them round

Last summer we ran huge tires at TQ (carpet) with good results, grip was low, track was dry and fuzzy

This year the grip is much better, anything more than 42mm will grip roll

On the Orange rear tire...
Quote:
It's 2/3 Jaco Yellows (30) on the inside of the tire and 1/3 Jaco Gray (35) on the outside of the tire
This tire has a few benefits, It is far more durable than Yellow, due to the firmer Gray outside edge, and will free up the rear of the car
However, it does work better when the grip is higher

Yellow for when grip is questionable
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Old 08-28-2014, 01:49 PM   #41229
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Xray X12’15 1/12th scale kit


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Old 08-28-2014, 05:46 PM   #41230
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In my personal opinion, and the reason I went away from the xray was the center pivot being to high and to big.
So it's great to see they have changed that! I think this is key, as with the 14, there is just no way to get the pivot where I wanted it.
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Old 08-28-2014, 08:11 PM   #41231
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jcozz View Post
I'm just looking for some life out of my tires. Don't want to go through a set of tires a day. I'm always at the track practicing.
you haven't indicated what sort of track surface you are dealing with.
at the local carpet track (TQ) I see maybe 1mm of tire wear from a practice day, maybe double that for a new carpet?

with asphalt it really depends on the local surface. at the local parking lot track (glarc), 1/8 foams would last 20minutes (starting full size) when the club first started running on that surface, now the wear is much better. when there was a permanent nitro track (crystal park) it was also a tire grinder in the first years but later when the surface was like glass the wear was very low.

notice, there are 2 consequences to too large a foam tire, poor handling and chunking. poor handling is annoying and chunking is tragic and even more annoying.

how big is too big is going to depend on your situation. if you rotate the tires after each run for even wear and stay off the boards, a set should last a few practice days. note the handling will improve as the tire size drops, so switch in new tires on practice days and save the small ones for race day. if you are chunking sidewalls then you are starting at too large a diameter and practicing false economy.
have fun.
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Old 08-28-2014, 08:37 PM   #41232
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew S View Post
In my personal opinion, and the reason I went away from the xray was the center pivot being to high and to big.
So it's great to see they have changed that! I think this is key, as with the 14, there is just no way to get the pivot where I wanted it.
Could have ran an associated pivot assembly, it bolts right in.
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Old 08-28-2014, 08:55 PM   #41233
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Quote:
Originally Posted by avs View Post
you haven't indicated what sort of track surface you are dealing with.
at the local carpet track (TQ) I see maybe 1mm of tire wear from a practice day, maybe double that for a new carpet?

with asphalt it really depends on the local surface. at the local parking lot track (glarc), 1/8 foams would last 20minutes (starting full size) when the club first started running on that surface, now the wear is much better. when there was a permanent nitro track (crystal park) it was also a tire grinder in the first years but later when the surface was like glass the wear was very low.

notice, there are 2 consequences to too large a foam tire, poor handling and chunking. poor handling is annoying and chunking is tragic and even more annoying.

how big is too big is going to depend on your situation. if you rotate the tires after each run for even wear and stay off the boards, a set should last a few practice days. note the handling will improve as the tire size drops, so switch in new tires on practice days and save the small ones for race day. if you are chunking sidewalls then you are starting at too large a diameter and practicing false economy.
have fun.

Thanks for the help. I run at premier RC raceway in Portland, OR. It's a brand new facility with brand new carpet. There's not much grip yet and not much of a groove. We run half the week off road(spiked tires- pulls up grove ) and half the week on road. I've heard using flexible super glue helps with chunking also...?
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Old 08-28-2014, 10:00 PM   #41234
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Help please.
Are, or were, there any 1/12 link chassis where the front plate had no lightening holes? Thanks.
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Old 08-28-2014, 11:39 PM   #41235
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Could have ran an associated pivot assembly, it bolts right in.
That's right it does.
And after up grading to ae pivot points, using ae center springs, using ae front springs, ae side springs etc etc, I just brought a darn ae!
It's cheaper, parts are cheaper, and to be honest, I'm just faster with ae than I could ever get my xray!

I love xray! I race the TC's, love the quality, the instructions and manuals,
Composite parts etc.

But they still have not found the right groove in 12th far as I'm concerned.
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