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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 08-09-2014, 03:35 PM   #41101
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Hi Andrew S

However, I note from Team Novak's recommendation that if we compare these 2 methods, then there would be difference in Spur and Pinion sizes

For instance 21.5T Motor, the recommended gearing by applying FDR is 3.40.

Whilst for Rollout formula, the recommendation is 2.8".
If we use 45mm rear tires and 90t Spur, then the pinion would be 45t.
The gearing shall be 2.00, which is a lot taller than the above FDR's recomemndation.

CMIIW
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Old 08-09-2014, 09:06 PM   #41102
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Default Help! Please.

It's been awhile since I've been into RC. Formerly running dirt oval years ago. I've purchased a CRC Xti which seems like an awesome platform... But I need help with electronics. First, bought a justock esc with a killshot 17.5, venom 6300 70c, with a 56t gear.. Ran it twice, cooked it the 2nd time. Mind you, I'm going by the LHS recommendations for electronics. After some reading it says it only supports 2s.. Once again taking LHS recommendations. I bought a Tekin RS gen 2 spec. Which doesn't seem to be 1s capable either. Will somebody please set me straight on what needs to happen? A receiver pack to compensate for the lack of 1s? Any help is GREATLY appreciated.
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Old 08-09-2014, 10:18 PM   #41103
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This is what I am running. Doesn't require a booster or a receiver pack or external capacitor. Switch is on board which saves space as well. Makes for a very tidy installation. I ran this thing ragged at aspahlat nats last week with a boosted 4.5 in 100*F temps.

http://www.hobbywing.com/product_show.asp?id=287
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Old 08-09-2014, 10:19 PM   #41104
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You can run a 2s ESC in 1s if you use a receiver pack or a booster. If you can find a TQ booster that works quite well with the Tekin RS and is small enough you should be able to find room for it in the close confines of the XTI chassis. For 17.5 a booster works fine...for mod you might want a receiver pack. Now if you want a 1s specific ESC I would highly reccomend the Orca 1s ESC. http://www.orcarc.com/en/products_3.asp?id=260
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Old 08-09-2014, 10:21 PM   #41105
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Or a Viper VTX1
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Old 08-09-2014, 10:22 PM   #41106
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packdaddy....Have you been up to Hob-y max in durham......sounds like you may the same gentleman they were helping the other day....Jose called me up about my just-stock that I run 1s on my crc 1/12....been going fine for rougly 2 months...probably have 3-400 laps.....already raced the car on 2 sunday weekend events and finished 5th and 4th....at least finished..out of 7..I run no hump pack on mine...everything runs just fine off of the 3.7V 1c cell....

My combo consists of crc carpet knife"Alter Ego" kit
just-stock esc (hobbywing)
motors have been tekin gen 2 17.5, turnigy trackstar 17.5, and d3.5 17.5........
turnigy and venom battery packs
savox servo
tried all types of gearing....have run with 72 and 80 spur and 42-58 pinion....max timing on trackstar has been the quickest....
spektrum radio/reciever
mylaps transponder....

love the setup...if any question feel free to pm me and we could chat
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T.O.P.S. PHOTON EX 2014 Model----------TEKIN 17.5T REDLINE with GEN2 ESC---------SAVOX steering ------------SPEKTRUM radio and reciever
REDCAT EARTHQUAKE--------LRP .30--------17MM upraded--------
REDCAT PAGANI BRUSHLESS RTR----------for bashing in the street in front of my house------
ECX BOOST-------BRUSHED------for my 6 year old to tear around the yard
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Old 08-09-2014, 10:27 PM   #41107
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewdoherty View Post
This is what I am running. Doesn't require a booster or a receiver pack. Makes for a very tidy installation.

http://www.hobbywing.com/product_show.asp?id=287
That ESC is a tight fit in the Xti. But if you do go that way make sure to unsolder the posts from the board then unsolder the stupid 10awg wire that comes on the ESC from the posts and solder it back on. If you try to remove the 10awg wire from the posts while still on the ESC you are very likely to overheat the ESC and damage it.
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Old 08-09-2014, 10:31 PM   #41108
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Just so you can see it better...I run no reciever battery pack with my hobbywing just-stock on 1s...no problems at all even after 8 min mains in 1/12th.....
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T.O.P.S. PHOTON EX 2014 Model----------TEKIN 17.5T REDLINE with GEN2 ESC---------SAVOX steering ------------SPEKTRUM radio and reciever
REDCAT EARTHQUAKE--------LRP .30--------17MM upraded--------
REDCAT PAGANI BRUSHLESS RTR----------for bashing in the street in front of my house------
ECX BOOST-------BRUSHED------for my 6 year old to tear around the yard
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Old 08-10-2014, 05:13 AM   #41109
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FASTEST5TH View Post
Just so you can see it better...I run no reciever battery pack with my hobbywing just-stock on 1s...no problems at all even after 8 min mains in 1/12th.....
Fastest5th that was me. I've heard about your car/setup.. Just curious to how mine would have cooked the 2nd time? Luck of the draw? Any specific booster or receiver pack you recommend?
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Old 08-10-2014, 06:41 AM   #41110
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pack...I have seen a couple other people running the juststock in 1/12th at our local track....though with reciever packs....probably never tried without....I even run mine with the factory fan removed.....I feel that with such light weight and efficient cars compared to a touring car there really isn't a lot of load put onto the motors which in turn keeps the load off the ESC....I plan on being up at the track today about noon for an afternoon of practice.....the new layout is kind of tough and only living 10 minutes away makes it nice.

your question on the hump pack I really don't know beside I kow there is an extra pain of keeping them charged...One of our really fast 1/12 guys last race had to bow out of the main when his went to start the race and his pack was dead....forgot to charge......If I were you I would try another jusstock or spend the coin on a 1s ESC so not to have the pain of the hump pack.
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T.O.P.S. PHOTON EX 2014 Model----------TEKIN 17.5T REDLINE with GEN2 ESC---------SAVOX steering ------------SPEKTRUM radio and reciever
REDCAT EARTHQUAKE--------LRP .30--------17MM upraded--------
REDCAT PAGANI BRUSHLESS RTR----------for bashing in the street in front of my house------
ECX BOOST-------BRUSHED------for my 6 year old to tear around the yard
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Old 08-10-2014, 08:06 AM   #41111
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FASTEST5TH View Post
pack...I have seen a couple other people running the juststock in 1/12th at our local track....though with reciever packs....probably never tried without....I even run mine with the factory fan removed.....I feel that with such light weight and efficient cars compared to a touring car there really isn't a lot of load put onto the motors which in turn keeps the load off the ESC....I plan on being up at the track today about noon for an afternoon of practice.....the new layout is kind of tough and only living 10 minutes away makes it nice.

your question on the hump pack I really don't know beside I kow there is an extra pain of keeping them charged...One of our really fast 1/12 guys last race had to bow out of the main when his went to start the race and his pack was dead....forgot to charge......If I were you I would try another jusstock or spend the coin on a 1s ESC so not to have the pain of the hump pack.
Gotcha, unfortunately I already purchased the Tekin. If your going to be up there today any chance you'd solder the esc for me? I'm a little hesitant after it all lol.
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Old 08-10-2014, 08:18 AM   #41112
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sure thing......i'll bring my soldering station.....check your messages also.
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T.O.P.S. PHOTON EX 2014 Model----------TEKIN 17.5T REDLINE with GEN2 ESC---------SAVOX steering ------------SPEKTRUM radio and reciever
REDCAT EARTHQUAKE--------LRP .30--------17MM upraded--------
REDCAT PAGANI BRUSHLESS RTR----------for bashing in the street in front of my house------
ECX BOOST-------BRUSHED------for my 6 year old to tear around the yard
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Old 08-10-2014, 02:35 PM   #41113
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Or a Team Wave booster would do which is 6V@3A which should be fine for stock and mod.
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Old 08-11-2014, 06:49 AM   #41114
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Conrad View Post
Or a Team Wave booster would do which is 6V@3A which should be fine for stock and mod.
Conrad

Can you point me to where I can purchase these looking for two to run with my rbs In Wgt and another for 12 scale thanks

I just checked the web site.

Also I haven't ran my rbs in a while what does the latest update for it does
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Old 08-11-2014, 08:24 AM   #41115
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With the Juststock 45AMP works perfect in 1s applications I use it with no booster with my futaba reciever that works down to 3v no problem a new version transponder and a ultra fast servo. .06 sec at 4.8 vots so when down at the end of a run I'm down to 3.7 so it's a bit slower but it is super easy to drive.

Never had an issue with signals and transponder once I got the newer version. the old big ones don;t like below 3.8v.
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