R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

Print Wikipost

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 08-07-2014, 02:09 AM   #41071
Tech Elite
 
metalnut's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Seattle
Posts: 2,726
Trader Rating: 36 (100%+)
Default

Double post, see below.
__________________
Team Nervous | Team Scruffy | Team Orange

"If you ain't first, you're last!"
- Ricky Bobby
metalnut is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-07-2014, 02:09 AM   #41072
Tech Elite
 
metalnut's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Seattle
Posts: 2,726
Trader Rating: 36 (100%+)
Default

I'm in the final stages of assembling a RC12R5.2 kit and I hit a little snag. Using a Futaba S9650 servo and a small Kimgrough servo saver, one of the ballcups attached to the back of the saver hits the servo when the wheels are turned to the left. If I adjust the ballcup to be perfectly vertical it clears the servo, but if it twists a bit the edge of it hits the servo case.

Is there a good fix or trick for this?
__________________
Team Nervous | Team Scruffy | Team Orange

"If you ain't first, you're last!"
- Ricky Bobby
metalnut is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-07-2014, 09:58 AM   #41073
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 1,735
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by metalnut View Post
I'm in the final stages of assembling a RC12R5.2 kit and I hit a little snag. Using a Futaba S9650 servo and a small Kimgrough servo saver, one of the ballcups attached to the back of the saver hits the servo when the wheels are turned to the left. If I adjust the ballcup to be perfectly vertical it clears the servo, but if it twists a bit the edge of it hits the servo case.

Is there a good fix or trick for this?
Assuming I understand your explanation correctly, I would just recommend setting your steering throw so that the endpoint is just before the ballcup hits the servo case. You should still have plenty of steering throw.

(This is what I have done on every one of my 12th scales...)
__________________
Chris Hillier | 5280 Raceway | www.5280raceway.com | Racing. Elevated.

Destiny | LRP America | Protoform | Xenon/JFT | Gravity RC | Motiv | Sanwa | Max.FX
LloydLoar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-07-2014, 10:04 AM   #41074
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 1,735
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by EDWARD2003 View Post
Since the rear pod runs on a solid axle and has no suspension.

One could say that:

A - The rear pod influences on the main chassis' handling is marginal? It only contributes to forward and aft weight transfer to the main chassis via the central damper?

B - The main chassis is the main component where the majority of the suspension is at work. Front springs, central damper, and side springs.

So really, when it comes to tuning a 1/12th, we are finding a balance between the front and rear end of the main chassis?

Sorry, it all sounds silly, but I'm just trying to express my ideas to further understand this class.
I don't agree with this statement. The next time you have some practice time, try placing some lead weights on your lower pod plate (not much, even 7g will make a difference.) You should notice a pretty big difference in how the car feels.

My take on this whole thing is that because the pod is unsuspended, it is an especially vital part of the car to get right. Weight and CG of the pod both contribute immensely to making sure the car doesn't hike and the rear stays flat when cornering.

The length of the pod (distance from pivot to rear axle) will have a huge impact on how the car feels. Hell, even just changing rear ride height, and thus changing the point of mesh between the spur and the pinion, has a huge impact on car feel.

EDIT: My usage of the term 'huge' is debatable, so feel free to insert whatever term you might prefer. I would recommend trying it first, though, before claiming it doesn't have much of an effect
__________________
Chris Hillier | 5280 Raceway | www.5280raceway.com | Racing. Elevated.

Destiny | LRP America | Protoform | Xenon/JFT | Gravity RC | Motiv | Sanwa | Max.FX

Last edited by LloydLoar; 08-07-2014 at 11:45 AM.
LloydLoar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-07-2014, 11:17 AM   #41075
Tech Champion
 
RedBullFiXX's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Intergalactic Planetary
Posts: 6,539
Trader Rating: 34 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by LloydLoar View Post
I don't agree with this statement. The next time you have some practice time, try placing some lead weights on your lower pod plate (not much, even 7g will make a difference.) You should notice a pretty big difference in how the car feels.

My take on this whole thing is that because the pod is unsuspended, it is an especially vital part of the car to get right. Weight and CG of the pod both contribute immensely to making sure the car doesn't hike and the rear stays flat when cornering.

The length of the pod (distance from pivot to rear axle) will have a huge impact on how the car feels. Hell, even just changing rear ride height, and thus changing the point of mesh between the spur and the pinion, has a huge impact on car feel.
Without a high grip track to test on, I cannot say I feel the same on the Huge Impact ish
I don't feel much, if any difference even from a delta of 20mm roll with same spur
Aside from gear mesh, I've never tried different pivot, to axle changes on one car, back-to-back
__________________
--> 12th scale Information Source <--

"Men do not quit playing because they grow old; they grow old because they quit playing."
― Oliver Wendell Holmes Jr.
RedBullFiXX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-07-2014, 11:44 AM   #41076
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 1,735
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
Without a high grip track to test on, I cannot say I feel the same on the Huge Impact ish
I don't feel much, if any difference even from a delta of 20mm roll with same spur
Aside from gear mesh, I've never tried different pivot, to axle changes on one car, back-to-back
Understandable, I might have exaggerated a little bit, although not on purpose.

The best way to 'feel' the difference, I think, is when you compare running really small tires with slammed ride height to when you run at club-race size tires/ride height, etc. The axle will be much lower in the pod when you run the smaller tires, which has a lot of knock-on effects other than just lowered CG. It will take someone like Cyrul to explain all of them, but something to think about nonetheless.

This is also a really big part of the whole 'damn, my car was dialed on small tires and now I went to freshies, changed ride height to match, etc and now it sucks.'

Might have a larger role in mod where the spur is much larger in relation to the pinion and there are only a couple teeth 'meshing'. The amount of motor displacement with mod is also greater (due to the increased power), which I think makes the whole interaction a bit more critical and noticeable.

If nothing else, hopefully this will give folks something else to try the next time they get some practice track time
__________________
Chris Hillier | 5280 Raceway | www.5280raceway.com | Racing. Elevated.

Destiny | LRP America | Protoform | Xenon/JFT | Gravity RC | Motiv | Sanwa | Max.FX
LloydLoar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-07-2014, 12:37 PM   #41077
Tech Elite
 
DesertRat's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Sniffin the 'Sauce Fumes
Posts: 2,376
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

If my car works great on small tires for a few races and then I swap to a fresh and bigger set of the same compound tire (adjusting roll-out and ride height as I do so) and it feels off, I usually will blame the tire. A lot of tires need a few runs to be good either through getting slightly 'blown out' through racing or through repeated sauce, this is one reason I try very hard to not run final qualifiers or mains on fresh tires unless I'm really struggling.

Everything else being equal, changing the rear ride height by a half-millimeter or so never changed my car handling much, and I don't think it should.

Changing the actual length of the rear pod is not a tuning change, it means you now have a new car to tune because you probably had to change your chassis as well. Changing the length of the pod also means changing your spring rates because the pod now has more mechanical advantage on the main shock/spring. These are not small changes.

I disagree when people assert that the rear pod is unsprung, it is partially unsprung but there is no piece of a 1/12 scale that truly experiences damped suspension movement. If your rear pod balance is off by a few grams it should make no difference, moving the motor forward in the pod is probably less of a tuning change in how it affects your unsprung weight than it is a change in the car center of mass, in a brushless 1/12 scale the motor weighs almost exactly as much as the battery. I run big gears to get the motor forward in the pod to get the weight forward, being less sprung is a nice afterthought.

1/12 scale tuning is tough sometimes. I'm lucky to have a good car that responds predictably.
__________________
I race toy cars for fun. If I need to explain, you'll never understand.
If everything is under control... go faster.
WTB: Carpet racing in Arizona.
It is obvious and intuitive to the most casual of observers that RC racing is better than golf.
DesertRat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-07-2014, 01:58 PM   #41078
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 900
Default

Like RedBullFiXX, I don't see a difference in either motor position in the pod, or weight distribution of the motor. Putting the weight on the pod is about having more weight to 'swing' in the turn, not weight distribution on the pod alone. Think Porsche 911 - with all that engine hanging out the back it makes the car rotate. It would't matter what the balance was, it would still rotate.

Smaller tyres is about flex and stagger, not weight distribution or roll centre. Remember years back when we had the 'wrap' tyres that were banned? They were in the high 40s diameter, nowhere near as small as we use now. They too gave a significant performance advantage due to having a very low profile. Today we are doing the same thing but using a larger wheel and a smaller diameter of foam.

Pivot point is a very big tuning aid, but only if it is changing its position within the same wheelbase. The CRC Altered Ego conversion is one example - same wheelbase (I think you call it track in the US - distance between the front and rear axle lines) but the pivot position is moved 3 to 4mm forward. That makes the car handle much better on low-grip surfaces.

In Europe, we were using additives with a high linseed oil content. Although this does give grip it is actually quite a low grip compared to the SXT, etc. you were using in the US. For a number of years, cars like the V-Dezign and modified AE 5.1s were used with 'long' pivot positions. We have now moved to additives with no linseed oil that generate grip like SXT, and suddenly the cars with a 'shorter' pivot position work again. We are back to running standard AE, CRC, Speedmerchant, etc. I think this is a weight transfer and distribution effect - the longer pivot moves the weight more to the rear and transfer less to the front during braking. With the SXT-style additive giving more rear grip, we can move back to the short pivot as the rear tyres can generate more grip.

The BMI car had a long pivot compared to the then current AE and CRC cars, and it was primarily designed for tarmac tracks where grip is lower than carpet. It went really well on tarmac (Asphalt in the US!).

Lastly, if you look at Josh Cyrul's car you will see all these things in use - except the balanced pod! IF you need any proof that a lot of things people wordy about don't actually matter that much, then look at Josh's results. With his own CEFX car using pivot position adjustments and camber-change front suspension, he was unbeatable. With the Speed merchant car with no change of pivot position and no camber-change front suspension he is unbeatable! Josh's focus is on getting everything working together to the very best level. If everything you are all saying about balanced pods and motor positions and weight distribution and... was relevant to a killer car, Josh would be doing it!
SlowerOne is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-07-2014, 02:16 PM   #41079
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 1,735
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by SlowerOne View Post
Lastly, if you look at Josh Cyrul's car you will see all these things in use - except the balanced pod! IF you need any proof that a lot of things people wordy about don't actually matter that much, then look at Josh's results. With his own CEFX car using pivot position adjustments and camber-change front suspension, he was unbeatable. With the Speed merchant car with no change of pivot position and no camber-change front suspension he is unbeatable! Josh's focus is on getting everything working together to the very best level. If everything you are all saying about balanced pods and motor positions and weight distribution and... was relevant to a killer car, Josh would be doing it!
Everything I said above about axle position relative to the motor and the pod on the whole is directly from my interactions with Josh when I ran for CEFX. So yes, he does pay attention to that level of detail. You just can't see it in the pictures that get posted to redrc Pod balancing, though? Can't say we ever discussed that, so you are correct on that note.

I agree that tire sidewall and wheel flex play a much larger role in overall car feel, but 12th scale is about much more than the huge glaring changes, especially with today's ridiculously overpowered (but fun) mod cars that can truly stress rear tire fade.
__________________
Chris Hillier | 5280 Raceway | www.5280raceway.com | Racing. Elevated.

Destiny | LRP America | Protoform | Xenon/JFT | Gravity RC | Motiv | Sanwa | Max.FX
LloydLoar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-07-2014, 02:23 PM   #41080
Tech Champion
 
RedBullFiXX's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Intergalactic Planetary
Posts: 6,539
Trader Rating: 34 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by LloydLoar View Post

If nothing else, hopefully this will give folks something else to try the next time they get some practice track time
Always testing stuff
That's the fun part
__________________
--> 12th scale Information Source <--

"Men do not quit playing because they grow old; they grow old because they quit playing."
― Oliver Wendell Holmes Jr.
RedBullFiXX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-07-2014, 06:18 PM   #41081
Tech Master
 
EDWARD2003's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Kagoshima, Japan
Posts: 1,918
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

I really do appreciate everyone's opinions

Thank you.
EDWARD2003 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-07-2014, 07:10 PM   #41082
Tech Fanatic
 
1/4milecrazy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Work, then Critters
Posts: 809
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Hello all. Newbie here with a few questions. I plan on getting involved in some 1/12 racing this winter, I will more than likely be getting an AE R5.2, running 17.5 and whatever electronics the majority of racers locally run, most likely hobbywing esc. I want to start reading about setup and chassis before I get started. I know a little bit about suspension and all that, but I have no idea how it applies to 1/12. Is there somewhere to get started about learning without having to read this whole thread? I will be running on med-high traction carpet where I am currently running touring car.

Reading about all the balancing and chassis set up is a little intimidating at first, but I am sure it will all piece together once I start learning how the chassis works.
__________________
Crispy Critters Hobby Shop and Raceway
1275 Bloomfield Ave Unit 31 BLDG 6
Fairfield NJ 07004 (973)575-0375
Web store- http://www.critterhobbies.com/
https://www.facebook.com/www.critterhobbies.com
1/4milecrazy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-07-2014, 08:32 PM   #41083
Tech Champion
 
RedBullFiXX's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Intergalactic Planetary
Posts: 6,539
Trader Rating: 34 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by EDWARD2003 View Post
I really do appreciate everyone's opinions

Thank you.
As do I
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1/4milecrazy View Post
Hello all. Newbie here with a few questions. I plan on getting involved in some 1/12 racing this winter, I will more than likely be getting an AE R5.2, running 17.5 and whatever electronics the majority of racers locally run, most likely hobbywing esc. I want to start reading about setup and chassis before I get started. I know a little bit about suspension and all that, but I have no idea how it applies to 1/12. Is there somewhere to get started about learning without having to read this whole thread? I will be running on med-high traction carpet where I am currently running touring car.

Reading about all the balancing and chassis set up is a little intimidating at first, but I am sure it will all piece together once I start learning how the chassis works.
Check the link in my sig
__________________
--> 12th scale Information Source <--

"Men do not quit playing because they grow old; they grow old because they quit playing."
― Oliver Wendell Holmes Jr.
RedBullFiXX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-08-2014, 01:09 AM   #41084
Tech Elite
 
metalnut's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Seattle
Posts: 2,726
Trader Rating: 36 (100%+)
Default

Is there a first time tire truing howto somewhere? I have an Ofna truer with a CRC cutting bit, Hudy adapter with Team Tamale wheel holders, so I think I have all the right pieces. But I'm trying to understand the process and trying not to ruin my first set of tires. A buddy is helping me via PMs and I got some fantastic tips from Mr. Slapmaster, but a video or pictures would sure help settle the stomach acids
__________________
Team Nervous | Team Scruffy | Team Orange

"If you ain't first, you're last!"
- Ricky Bobby
metalnut is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-08-2014, 01:40 AM   #41085
Tech Master
 
LonnyJ1950's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Tucson, AZ. USA
Posts: 1,139
Default

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mx7n8zN3JYM

HYH
__________________
Lonny
LonnyJ1950 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 05:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 02:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 08:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 09:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 12:41 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0