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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 08-04-2014, 08:26 PM   #41041
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SlowerOne View Post
Someone is going to have to explain this pod-balancing obsession to me...

The pod is a solid structure, with no joints. Whatever weight is put in it will even out across both wheels. It is connected to the chassis by a single, central point so can have no effect on the balance of the chassis.

Once the dynamics kicks in, then a severe imbalance could conceivably cause the car to unweight one wheel more than the other, but it would have to be severe. It could be countered by setting the axle slightly offset, thus sharing whatever dynamic imbalance exits across the contact patches. This clearly is not the case, since those doing the balancing do not run their axle center-line any different to those of us who don't.

It's a concept that has apparent merit in theory, but in practice it doesn't stand up to a basic mechanical engineering analysis. Unless someone can explain it better...
I do like his explanation and it makes sense in my mind.
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Old 08-04-2014, 08:27 PM   #41042
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Double double; Tim Horton

Last edited by EDWARD2003; 08-04-2014 at 08:45 PM.
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Old 08-04-2014, 08:41 PM   #41043
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how does balancing of the main chassis work out with non balanced rear pod, as i thought id gotten mine pretty well even left to right with balancing pins, but when i used a corner weight rc scale station i was much heavier on left side, even when it was perfectly tweaked still was out.
is it possible to get it perfectly balanced to some degree??
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Old 08-05-2014, 01:28 AM   #41044
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Hi,

I want to join the 1/12 racing but there are so many brands out there?
I will racing 1s 10.5t blinky on carpet.
Yokomo, Asso, Xray, Serpent, Onpoint, Speedmarchent, Morotech, VBC, Corally
and many others?
What would be the brand to go the car should be durable and easy to set up.
Also what tyres brand Jaco, JFT, Hotrace, Mobgumm's....
I will also need a tyre truer but the Hudy is way out of my budget..
Thank's for Your help.

Claude
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Old 08-05-2014, 02:38 AM   #41045
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Re: Pod balance:

As already mentioned, the rear pod imbalance has a dynamic effect only. It is possible (within reasonable limits) to correct the imbalance with a combination of component/weight placement on the main chassis and tweak screw adjustments for STATIC corner weights on a tweak board or scales. But when the pod encounters a bump, the greater inertia of the heavy side of the pod will put more instantaneous pressure on the tire on that side. Since the imbalance is usually small, and our tracks are usually very smooth, then the effect can usually be ignored.

There are some racers that still run cars with rear pods designed for brushed motors, but using heavier brushless motors, and do quite well with them.
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Old 08-05-2014, 05:52 AM   #41046
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Hey guys and gals. Can somebody please help answer a couple questions for me? 1) what is the advantage or disadvantage to running the battery inline on the chassis and electronics inline (like onpoint) compared to the battery being ran across the back (transverse?) 2) What is the ideal front to rear weight ratio you would want with 17.5 stock racing?

Thanks!
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Old 08-05-2014, 08:21 AM   #41047
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Quote:
Originally Posted by I)arkness View Post
how does balancing of the main chassis work out with non balanced rear pod, as i thought id gotten mine pretty well even left to right with balancing pins, but when i used a corner weight rc scale station i was much heavier on left side, even when it was perfectly tweaked still was out.
is it possible to get it perfectly balanced to some degree??
ihmo
I would not recommend balancing chassis electronics with the rear pod connected, unless the rear pod is also balanced, which could be seen as pushing the ball up-hill to no benefit

Weight on the pod is spread across a solid axle, weight on the chassis is not

Any imbalance of the rear pod will further skew chassis balance, if one were to corner weight the car as a whole, or on balance pins

I've given up on pod balance, now preferring to just have the least weight on the pod as possible
Quote:
Originally Posted by toroloco View Post
Hi,

I want to join the 1/12 racing but there are so many brands out there?
I will racing 1s 10.5t blinky on carpet.
Yokomo, Asso, Xray, Serpent, Onpoint, Speedmarchent, Morotech, VBC, Corally
and many others?
What would be the brand to go the car should be durable and easy to set up.
Also what tyres brand Jaco, JFT, Hotrace, Mobgumm's....
I will also need a tyre truer but the Hudy is way out of my budget..
Thank's for Your help.

Claude
Choose the tires your club mates run to start
Yokomo-3Racing offer a nice portable truer at a fair price
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Last edited by RedBullFiXX; 08-05-2014 at 08:32 AM.
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Old 08-05-2014, 08:30 AM   #41048
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adam B View Post
Hey guys and gals. Can somebody please help answer a couple questions for me? 1) what is the advantage or disadvantage to running the battery inline on the chassis and electronics inline (like On-Point) compared to the battery being ran across the back (transverse?) 2) What is the ideal front to rear weight ratio you would want with 17.5 stock racing?

Thanks!
I think In-Line vs: Transverse is a tuning option
There is no one way that may work best everywhere, on every car

In-line for more mass centralization
Transverse can have more rear weight bias

Most 1/12 cars are around 60/40 bias

With my SpeedMerchants, Transverse is very good on lower grip, tight club tracks, but Inline was much easier to drive on a super high-grip flowing track like at iic

The rev8 is built for all lipo positions
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Old 08-05-2014, 08:41 AM   #41049
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Here's the Slapmaster take on pod balance:

I use an old Delta tweak board and balance pins. Both of these check the car as a "whole". So if the motor weight is one side or the other in the pod whether it be by design or by motor manufacturer, you will have a natural tendency to correct it by the tweak screws. It's easy to see. Tweak the car with the rear axle on the tweak bar side, front tires on the stationary side. Now rotate the car around putting the rear tires on the stationary side, tap it out, see where your bubble is. If its "on", you are good. If it's "off", something is out of balance in the car.

If it's off, I start by taking the motor pod off with the motor in it. I find some scrap of wire and solder on to best represent what was there if the car was whole. You have to make some assumption to what is a proper amount at the motor and what would be part of the chassis. Pinion on. Just like it was ready to run. Put that on your balance pins and see what that looks like. Different motors have their stators in different locations in the can which is really difficult to balance. I have machined up spacers that go with each motor manufacture just to get it right.

Of course, check your chassis (minus the motor pod) in the same way. Shift your electronics until it's balanced.

Now reassemble your car as if its ready to run, put it back on the tweak board. If you are blown away by how far off your tweak screws are, you will be more excited to hit the track!

By correcting this, what I would feel is how the car would handle chicanes and similar driving arcs. With an imbalanced pod, I would see a wgt car lift an inside wheel which of course is wheel spin. I have had 12th scales turn slightly better one way vs the other when it bubbles out. Balance it, whoa!, runs the same both ways. You can spend hours fixing this, but it's worth every minute.

I have also seen guys rest their chassis about 50% perpendicular off the edge of a set up board, front tires off. Put just a little pressure on the front until the rear tires come off and then visually look to see if the gap between the board the rear tires are the same. It's a quick and dirty way to check for tweak and balance. BTW: I feel this only works if your front end springs and downstops are all correct.

Brian
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Old 08-05-2014, 09:10 AM   #41050
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I was curious about the new Rev.8 and went to the SpeedMerchant site...I found this pic of Josh Cyrul's Rev.8 with a mysterious black box in front of his ESC:

What is that thing?
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Old 08-05-2014, 09:13 AM   #41051
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I was curious about the new Rev.8 and went to the SpeedMerchant site...I found this pic of Josh Cyrul's Rev.8 with a mysterious black box in front of his ESC:

What is that thing?
Looks like a receiver battery
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Old 08-05-2014, 09:14 AM   #41052
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JiuHaWong View Post
Looks like a receiver battery
The Rx pack is behind his esc, the box in front of his ESC is a fan. He said he needed the fan due to the heat on his mod car.
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Old 08-05-2014, 09:14 AM   #41053
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JiuHaWong View Post
Looks like a receiver battery
Isn't that behind his ESC?
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Old 08-05-2014, 09:15 AM   #41054
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pmes View Post
Isn't that behind his ESC?
Sorry, I think it is a fan (kave beat me to it)
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Old 08-05-2014, 09:54 AM   #41055
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Cool

A fan is always a good idea for mod, especially where you have 160+ track temps

The rev8 mod 1/12, with Josh at the wheel was turning laps nearly 2s faster than Mod TC at the Nats
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