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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 07-29-2014, 04:57 AM   #41011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
A commonly overlooked cause to this is the left side hub being on too tight. You need to have a slight bit of play in the rear axle otherwise the rear bearings bind. Since both rear bearings are on the left side of the diff...it will cause the car to pull left.
ive heard of people using o-rings as spacers and a cushion for the axle? is this worth trying or not to bother. just stick with the little bit of play
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Old 07-29-2014, 07:22 AM   #41012
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Originally Posted by oldenuff View Post
hi guys, just searching for some advice, Between ball diff rebuilds ( which i am new too ) i am noticing sometimes i get it right and sometimes not, but i don't know the difference of what i am doing from 1 build to the next,. sometimes the car pulls one way under power generally left and sometimes it tracks straight, any hints as to what i should be doing during a rebuild or what i should be looking for or even where i am going wrong, any advice would be greatly appreciated.
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There is a 3 part series on YouTube relating to 1/12 help. It's a must watch for everyone. Here's one of the 3.

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=-ct2L3KEkE0
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Old 07-29-2014, 07:26 AM   #41013
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Guys looking for Xray X12, NOT 2014 spec.
If someone have for sale - please pm!
Roller only is preferred.
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Old 07-29-2014, 10:08 AM   #41014
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ive heard of people using o-rings as spacers and a cushion for the axle? is this worth trying or not to bother. just stick with the little bit of play
I have not tried this but it would seem to me that a rubber o-ring would create a fair amount of drag.
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Old 07-29-2014, 01:21 PM   #41015
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Default booster/no booster

When do I need to use a booster/rcvr pack?

With all 2s/3s speedo's?

Do any 1s speedo's need a booster?

Thanks for any replys.
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Old 07-29-2014, 03:40 PM   #41016
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Originally Posted by oldguyzrule View Post
When do I need to use a booster/rcvr pack?

With all 2s/3s speedo's?

Do any 1s speedo's need a booster?

Thanks for any replys.
You need a voltage booster for most speedos on 1S. You don't need a booster with the ORCA VX1, Hobbywing 1S, or the Viper VTX1, from what I remember.
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Old 07-29-2014, 07:33 PM   #41017
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Originally Posted by metalnut View Post
You need a voltage booster for most speedos on 1S. You don't need a booster with the ORCA VX1, Hobbywing 1S, or the Viper VTX1, from what I remember.
REVENTON PRO 1.1 Ex by speed passion is very good for racing with 1cell. It's just plug and go without a receiver pack. It can be used with 2 cell just as well without any problems.
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Old 07-30-2014, 10:13 AM   #41018
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Thought some of you old-timers would like to see an antique collectable pin from the early years, was anyone here at this race? I also went out there a year or 2 earlier for my first time and actually ran the expert B Main......to my surprise!

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Old 07-30-2014, 10:41 AM   #41019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OttoKrosse View Post
Thought some of you old-timers would like to see an antique collectable pin from the early years, was anyone here at this race? I also went out there a year or 2 earlier for my first time and actually ran the expert B Main......to my surprise!

Hey, that you Mark? I think I was there with the old Tuna Boat Winnebago.
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Old 07-30-2014, 11:08 AM   #41020
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Originally Posted by LonnyJ1950 View Post
Hey, that you Mark? I think I was there with the old Tuna Boat Winnebago.

WOW, not only did I find someone that was there in 1982....I found my pit buddy for the weekend....cool!! Pitting in the RV was so cool....we had it made!

Still looking forward to hooking up again, as soon as I can get down to Tucson. Ever since getting a job and my sister moved up to my place I don't get the time to go down there.

Take care LJ, hope everyone is doing better.
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Old 07-30-2014, 12:07 PM   #41021
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Originally Posted by WIITA View Post
There is a 3 part series on YouTube relating to 1/12 help. It's a must watch for everyone. Here's one of the 3.

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=-ct2L3KEkE0

ssssshhhhhhh I thought that was a top secret video!
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Old 07-30-2014, 07:06 PM   #41022
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OttoKrosse View Post
Thought some of you old-timers would like to see an antique collectable pin from the early years, was anyone here at this race? I also went out there a year or 2 earlier for my first time and actually ran the expert B Main......to my surprise!

Still got my pin and some Ranch Pit Stop Decals. Went with LonnyJ and the group from Tucson. We even went to REVTech while we were there. Great fun......
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Old 07-30-2014, 07:13 PM   #41023
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This will sound like a super newbie question, but I've always questioned this adjustment.

On the kingpin there are multiple spacers that you can place above or below the steering block, and above the upper link. Now, most setup manuals state this is for ride height. However, I can't help but wonder if this is also for adjusting roll centers? Am I right in thinking this? Or is roll center adjustment dependent on length of lower arm and upper arm.
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Old 07-30-2014, 07:24 PM   #41024
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Originally Posted by EDWARD2003 View Post
This will sound like a super newbie question, but I've always questioned this adjustment.

On the kingpin there are multiple spacers that you can place above or below the steering block, and above the upper link. Now, most setup manuals state this is for ride height. However, I can't help but wonder if this is also for adjusting roll centers? Am I right in thinking this? Or is roll center adjustment dependent on length of lower arm and upper arm.
That's definitely not a newbie question. Determination and adjustment of roll centers is almost a science unto itself. If your car has pivoting upper and lower arms, then it is a double-wishbone arrangement; if the lower arm is fixed, with the kingpin sliding through it, and the upper arm pivots, then it is an upside-down MacPherson strut. You can find many treatises on the internet on how to calculate roll centers for either arrangement.

And to answer your question, yes, the spacers can be used to make small adjustments to the roll center.
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Old 07-30-2014, 09:46 PM   #41025
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Thank you for your response. But, the primary adjustment is to adjust the ride height and secondary is roll center?

I also heard going to softer springs will result in more roll. Which is interesting.
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