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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 07-21-2014, 08:45 AM   #40966
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EDWARD2003 View Post
You can see and get an idea where the weight is being placed on the rim. The black mark in the middle. The inner part of the rim before the black line is quite flexible whereas once you move outward it's stiffer.
How does this picture determine your thought process?

The black line represents a low spot and from the first picture a place where the foam stuck. This would mean/assume your tire truer is square to the rim you are cutting.

Also note yokomo rims are not legal according to the 38mm max diameter rule. They are actually molded with some draft (most wheels are) where the front edge is 38.1? mm and the in side is 37.?? I doubt anyone would check this at a race and is hard to prove since once you put on a truer to cut off the foam you would cut the outer lip down too. A new wheel is the best way to see it.

The reason they are doing this is it allows for a smaller percentage of foam on the outer side wall.

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Old 07-21-2014, 09:47 AM   #40967
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Monti View Post
How does this picture determine your thought process?

The black line represents a low spot and from the first picture a place where the foam stuck. This would mean/assume your tire truer is square to the rim you are cutting.



Also note yokomo rims are not legal according to the 38mm max diameter rule. They are actually molded with some draft (most wheels are) where the front edge is 38.1? mm and the in side is 37.?? I doubt anyone would check this at a race and is hard to prove since once you put on a truer to cut off the foam you would cut the outer lip down too. A new wheel is the best way to see it.

The reason they are doing this is it allows for a smaller percentage of foam on the outer side wall.

Where did you get this information from? Just to let you know the R12 rim diameter is 38.0mm and the width is 38.1mm. You'll have to trim down the sides to make the rim width legal. It's against the rules to run any rim width beyond 38.1mm, it must be 38.0mm or less. They do have have gauges to check this, and yes they check the rim width at big race.

Monti
It's just a noob observation, and thought it would be interesting to show everyone. Maybe get people's thoughts on it. Also, have you looked at an R12 rear rim up close? I highly doubt that black mark is a low spot.

Where did you get this information from? Just to let you know the R12 rim diameter is 38.0mm and the width is 38.1mm. You'll have to trim down the sides to make the rim width legal. It's against the rules to run any rim width beyond 38.1mm, it must be 38.0mm or less. They do have have gauges to check this, and yes they check the rim width at big races.
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Old 07-21-2014, 09:49 AM   #40968
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Monti View Post
How does this picture determine your thought process?

The black line represents a low spot and from the first picture a place where the foam stuck. This would mean/assume your tire truer is square to the rim you are cutting.

Also note yokomo rims are not legal according to the 38mm max diameter rule. They are actually molded with some draft (most wheels are) where the front edge is 38.1? mm and the in side is 37.?? I doubt anyone would check this at a race and is hard to prove since once you put on a truer to cut off the foam you would cut the outer lip down too. A new wheel is the best way to see it.

The reason they are doing this is it allows for a smaller percentage of foam on the outer side wall.

Monti
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Hey Ed
Monti has forgotten more than you know about 12th scale bud
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Old 07-21-2014, 10:15 AM   #40969
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Interesting.... I'll have to check this out. Yes, you're right! 38.1 on the outer and 37.9~37.95 on the inside. Like I said, I'm 1/12 a noob. You live you learn.

Thanks for your input Monti.
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Old 07-21-2014, 05:38 PM   #40970
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EDWARD2003 View Post
Also, have you looked at an R12 rear rim up close? I highly doubt that black mark is a low spot.
You could be correct about not being a low spot. But you need to consider it has to be something since both the outer and inner part of the rim cleaned off. This means one of several things, your cutter walks away from the rim, it's a low spot in the rim, your cutter is rolling over that area, or your wheel spins out of true on the truer. If the wheel and the cutting tool were completely square to each other the tire should come clean in one pass

Here is a tip, just buy some acetone and a paint can, soak your wheels for 24 to 48hrs and you will have perfectly clean rims. Wear some rubber gloves to protect your hands. You can not do this with ABS plastic (Older CRC/BSR rims).

Quote:
Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
Hey Ed
Monti has forgotten more than you know about 12th scale bud
I am not so sure about this Dave, I just know a guy who has made a few 1/12 tires over the years.

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Old 07-21-2014, 08:22 PM   #40971
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reusing rims is a pain in the ass and takes such a long time.

did this for some front tires, had to make up a special insert as there was so much flex in the inner part of the rim, otherwise when putting pressure on it just would not get a even cut with truer.
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Old 07-21-2014, 09:05 PM   #40972
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I'm not sure as to why people assumed I used my lathe cutting bit to cut all the way down to the rim surface? Look back at my original post. I used the lathe cutter to bring the foam down to 2-3 mm, and then used sandpaper (coarse and fine grit) to remove the remaining foam.

I'll admit, at first I did try using the lathe cutter to true all the way down to the rim. The rim deforms and the cut is not perfect, simply put, it doesn't work. But, the above method with sandpaper works like a charm.

As for the truer, it cuts in a perfectly straight line and is not walking into or away from the rim. I tested this by using a machining dial indicator and there's no problem.

I'll give the acetone method a try another time. Thanks again for your wealth of information.

Last edited by EDWARD2003; 07-21-2014 at 09:17 PM.
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Old 07-21-2014, 11:30 PM   #40973
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I'll give the acetone method a try another time. Thanks again for your wealth of information.
how will this effect the rims? or will they be fine with the acetone
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Old 07-22-2014, 01:21 AM   #40974
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Quote:
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how will this effect the rims? or will they be fine with the acetone
I've reused dozens of rims with the acetone method, though this has been with all kinds of rubber tires, I've never tried foam. Still, the various plastic rims were never affected, and I usually soak them in acetone for 24 hours. Once or twice I forgot about them and left them in there for almost 48, still no plastic degradation. IMHO this is by far the best and easiest method.
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Old 07-22-2014, 06:41 AM   #40975
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Originally Posted by EDWARD2003 View Post
I'm not sure as to why people assumed I used my lathe cutting bit to cut all the way down to the rim surface? Look back at my original post

I'll give the acetone method a try another time. Thanks again for your wealth of information.
Fair enough

You can still use acetone and it will clean up all the left over Ca glue and foam you didn't sand off, that is if you are very particular.

Quote:
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how will this effect the rims? or will they be fine with the acetone
There are no effects that I have ever encountered with nylon rims. Like I stated ABS plastic is another story, it will "melt" them.

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Old 07-22-2014, 08:32 AM   #40976
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All this discussion about mounting your own tires, wheel size and etc....and all I can think about is how cool fluorescent yellow wheels look on 12th scales! I think bright wheels (white or yellow) make the car so much easier to see and thus drive...
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Old 07-22-2014, 05:02 PM   #40977
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I'll ask the obvious - where are people getting the donuts from to mount their own tyres? CRC has a few available on their site, but not the compounds people actually use the last time I looked.
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Old 07-22-2014, 05:20 PM   #40978
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When I last looked into doing it I found that it really saved very little if any money to mount your own tires vs buying pre-mounts. I'm not a big fan of the new methods of mounting manufacturers are using as there often is a gap in the center of the tire which does not get glued like the one in Edward's first picture. The time and mess of mounting your own just isn't worth the cost savings. The only real advantage to mounting your own is you can true them taller than most pre-mounts if you are running on outdoor asphalt.
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Old 07-23-2014, 09:16 PM   #40979
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Well, I think I have officially gone off the deep end. I bought a New-In-Box Trinity Black Widow on Ebay today just because it looked so cool, and worse yet, I may actually try to race it.
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Old 07-23-2014, 09:29 PM   #40980
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Well, I think I have officially gone off the deep end. I bought a New-In-Box Trinity Black Widow on Ebay today just because it looked so cool, and worse yet, I may actually try to race it.
Missed ya out at TQ Sun, you didn't join the rest of the AZ racers this time
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