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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 07-17-2014, 03:12 PM   #40951
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Originally Posted by S.Stew View Post
I think I would be more inclined to go to a softer tire and either dope less or go smaller in diameter.
It would depend on if your tires were losing grip to the surface or getting gummy because of it. If wearing through your sauce is losing grip I think the harder tire/more sauce techique would work. On the other hand, you could get similar results with a tire with a bit more grip due to soft and gummy compound which could work when dry, in which case front sauce is less of an issue because the tire is effectively providing its own grip instead of needing traction additive.
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Old 07-17-2014, 04:26 PM   #40952
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It would depend on if your tires were losing grip to the surface or getting gummy because of it. If wearing through your sauce is losing grip I think the harder tire/more sauce techique would work. On the other hand, you could get similar results with a tire with a bit more grip due to soft and gummy compound which could work when dry, in which case front sauce is less of an issue because the tire is effectively providing its own grip instead of needing traction additive.
Noob question... how do you tell which was affecting you when you get the car to the pit after the race?
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Old 07-17-2014, 05:38 PM   #40953
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Noob question... how do you tell which was affecting you when you get the car to the pit after the race?
compared to some of the guys on here, I'm a 1/12 scale baby. I did my share of asking questions and experimentation though, but my understanding isn't quite complete. One thing I know for sure, there is no 1/12 scale gospel, especially as I can't drive or examine your car in person over RCTech.

Quick Robin! To the Wall of Text!

As I understand it, racing foam tire on carpet means you will either lose, gain, or maintain traction and tire buildup to/from the track. Add to this how foam tires wear a small but not inconsiderable amount to reveal a new driving surface during the race, it must be race-ready as well. If your car maintains traction over the run, great! No problem at all. If you gain or lose traction to the track, there are several possible reasons why.

As an anecdote, if I were to run a double-pink, 35 shore natural rubber front tire with half-sauce on the inside and during my run the car lost steering at 6 minutes and comes off the track with rubber goop buildup on the unsauced part of the tire, I would guess that I either burned through the sauce or the goop made the car push. This goop can go either way in affecting grip, it may reduce grip or give even more steering you don't want, either way the buildup may be affecting consistent traction. To combat this, I could fully sauce the front tire to keep the buildup away, but this may also cause excessive front grip and affect the cars handling early in the run. If I don't think the goop is really changing the cars performance and I just burned through the sauce, or if there is no goop at all, I could continue half-saucing but sauce for longer, maybe even twice as long. If I decide that I want to fully sauce the front tire to keep it from getting any buildup, but I don't want to make other tuning changes to take the extra tire grip, I would switch to a harder front tire with more sauce for longer, or even a synthetic rubber tire like a Black with a full-width soak. A Black compound tire can have plenty of grip with a good soak.

As for exactly how you would GUESS which way to go, I would have to see the tire.

Back when I first started in 1/12 scale I found that a hard front tire favors my driving style and typical car set-up. I am a lock-to-lock driver which means my car performs best when it has a good transition from high-speed push to low-speed rotation at the corner apex. Soft natural rubber front tires like Pinks and Magentas tended to make my cars pulse-steer and even have a high-speed oversteer, making it difficult to drive the car efficiently. These days I almost exclusively drive hard front tires with lots of sauce.

Extreme cases this process probably won't hold up but at the club-racing traction level, it's taken me from being a DNF to competing.
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Last edited by DesertRat; 07-17-2014 at 05:50 PM. Reason: Realized I hadn't really answered the question all that well. Also, a word.
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Old 07-17-2014, 07:23 PM   #40954
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Quick Robin! To the Wall of Text!
Thank you for the lengthy explanation, it all makes sense. I'm lucky to have a lot of very good (and very fast) 12th scale drivers at my track, so I'm going to try to absorb as much of their knowledge as I can during my first pan car season
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Old 07-17-2014, 08:07 PM   #40955
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For about 30 mins when I first get to the track. I then wipe the fronts off, do a burnout on the burnout carpet and run the first qualie. (Same for both) Wipe Tires with dry rag to clean and then reapply 10-15mins before the next run.
I happened on LGC by accident, I went to Calgary to a race the WCICS Finals and forgot my SXT, and all the local shop there had was LGC. I liked it, no odor at all and the Black fronts and magenta rear combo I run at our home track likes it. I am just got back into 1/12th last season, and my car always got a slight push at like 6:30 min into a race. At the Calgary WCICS final with the LGC I didn't get it. I thought it was just the carpet being different but when I tried it on back at N.A.S.C.A.R. (my club) I never got the push. Our track is newer CRC carpet and we run a big track (5 rolls of carpet), that seems harder on tires that the more worn carpet at Calgary. I like the Gravity tires too. I still occasionally hit the wall though and the front wheel is weaker than the JACOS I have been using.
The Calgary track is built on a subfloor simular to what they use at IIC. And Edmonton is just carpet laid on concrete? Correct me if I'm wrong I haven't been up there in years. That makes a huge difference in track temperature and how the track takes rubber. I found at Calgary track Gravity RC Soft/Soft combo were easier for me to drive and didn't have the push at the end of the run compared to hard fronts and soft rear.
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Old 07-17-2014, 08:39 PM   #40956
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A few of us found the same thing Shawn. During club races we didn't push, we got very loose around 6 min in and hung on for the last minute. This was due to lack of grip and the soft tires picking up dirt over the run and not wearing down. When I asked Paul about the tires he said that the super soft rear would be better for the conditions. During the WCICS the grip was high and the soft worked better.
Low grip the softer the rear the more grip
High grip the harder the rear the more grip
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Old 07-17-2014, 11:19 PM   #40957
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The Calgary track is built on a subfloor simular to what they use at IIC. And Edmonton is just carpet laid on concrete? Correct me if I'm wrong I haven't been up there in years. That makes a huge difference in track temperature and how the track takes rubber. I found at Calgary track Gravity RC Soft/Soft combo were easier for me to drive and didn't have the push at the end of the run compared to hard fronts and soft rear.
Yep carpet on the concrete, at NASCAR the grip is high due to the amount of rubber laid down every club night. I like the way the harder tires free the car up. The gravity tires hard front soft rears worked great too but as i said i'm just getting back into 1/12th and still hit stuff. The gravity front wheel didn't like that so much.
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Old 07-18-2014, 12:09 AM   #40958
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Originally Posted by metalnut View Post
Thank you for the lengthy explanation, it all makes sense. I'm lucky to have a lot of very good (and very fast) 12th scale drivers at my track, so I'm going to try to absorb as much of their knowledge as I can during my first pan car season
I'm glad it may be of some use, I thought it would be a quick reply but it turned into a massive explanation and most of which you probably didn't need.

Good luck, nothing in racing is more important than a friend and fellow racer who can answer questions and get your car right. I failed miserably the first time I tried to race 1/12, as it turns out the wrong tires look like the right tires but sure don't work like the right tires.
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Old 07-18-2014, 04:45 PM   #40959
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Default Ulti Tire Compounds

I have had success with Ulti X-compound tires and the occasional Z-compound use but I have to ask how the Y and J compounds compare, beyond the slightly useless explanation you get from Ulti themselves.

Y compound says: "This matches carpet and low grip and works well with tire treatment. This compound will create a little more push compared to the X compound." Does this mean it is like a synthetic rubber along the lines of Black/Grey/Yellow or does it mean something else?

J compound says: "This matches asphalt to all carpet and in the condition of an especially high grip." So is this a tire along the Pink/Double Pink/Purple line?

Just asking before I order tires for the IIC.

Thanks
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Old 07-18-2014, 04:49 PM   #40960
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From what I have heard, the J compound tires are similar to the normal pink/magenta tires. At MHIC I was told that the J-hard was similar to the BSR Team Purple. That was from Cyrul, and I typically trust his judgment
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Old 07-18-2014, 05:29 PM   #40961
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Originally Posted by DesertRat View Post
I have had success with Ulti X-compound tires and the occasional Z-compound use but I have to ask how the Y and J compounds compare, beyond the slightly useless explanation you get from Ulti themselves.

Y compound says: "This matches carpet and low grip and works well with tire treatment. This compound will create a little more push compared to the X compound." Does this mean it is like a synthetic rubber along the lines of Black/Grey/Yellow or does it mean something else?

J compound says: "This matches asphalt to all carpet and in the condition of an especially high grip." So is this a tire along the Pink/Double Pink/Purple line?

Just asking before I order tires for the IIC.

Thanks
Quote:
Originally Posted by LloydLoar View Post
From what I have heard, the J compound tires are similar to the normal pink/magenta tires. At MHIC I was told that the J-hard was similar to the BSR Team Purple. That was from Cyrul, and I typically trust his judgment
+1
J (Japan Foam) are Pink, Mag, Purple, Lilac type of stuff

Also the Y-Compound is even more of a synthetic than the X-Compound
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Old 07-19-2014, 12:12 AM   #40962
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Hey Evan, I found that J compounds gave slightly less grip at CH for the same hardness. J soft rear less grip than X soft etc.
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Old 07-21-2014, 05:06 AM   #40963
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Saved me $74 by reusing my Yokomo rims!

It was quite easy to do. Used my lathe cut down to a small diameter. Then used coarse sandpaper to bring it down to the rim and then then used a fine grit to clean things up.

To my surprise the Yokomo pre-mounts were poorly glued together. Here's some pictures of the Yokomo pre-mounts.
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Old 07-21-2014, 05:12 AM   #40964
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You can see and get an idea where the weight is being placed on the rim. The black mark in the middle. The inner part of the rim before the black line is quite flexible whereas once you move outward it's stiffer.
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Old 07-21-2014, 05:15 AM   #40965
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Money in the bank!
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