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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 07-07-2014, 01:23 PM   #40906
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I have seen that Ulti has some plastic wheel stiffeners available. What is their advantage? If any.
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Old 07-07-2014, 03:41 PM   #40907
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The Ulti wheel stiffeners are a tuning tool to help dial in your car to the track conditions.

If the rear of your car feels too locked down and a harder compound won't hook up, you can try the soft or firm inserts to reduce wheel flex and dial out a little but of the excess traction.
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Old 07-07-2014, 04:51 PM   #40908
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
CRC still makes the plastic ones since their front end is still the same bolt pattern as the old AE front end.

http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules.p...prodID=7718842
I bought them,thought they were too.
Bolt pattern not the same.
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Old 07-07-2014, 06:35 PM   #40909
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chef88 View Post
I bought them,thought they were too.
Bolt pattern not the same.
Perhaps your car isn't running the old style AE front end? My BMI car had the old style AE front end and I ran the CRC front end on it because I like it better so I know the bolt pattern is the same...the new style AE front end uses a 3mm screw and a different bolt pattern. Unless you are talking super old school before the Dynamic Strut suspension...they had a short 2 hole front end and a longer 3 hole front end...the 3 hole should still be the same bolt pattern but the old shorter 2 hole one wouldn't be. Might want to check Speed Merchant's website as they still run the old school AE front end before the Dynamic Strut suspension.

Is it these arms?:
http://www.teamspeedmerchant.com/sho...l/smr1280.html

If so they have aluminum ride height washers on the site but I don't see shims.
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Old 07-08-2014, 11:14 PM   #40910
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I have found some 71 & 72 spurs at:

http://www.customworksrc.com/Categor...speed+Products

Has anyone tried these? Does anyone know how to contact them? There seems to be no email, phone or contact info. I want to contact them to see if they have them in stock and to see what the "8225 adapter" is for that is mention in the picture of there spur gears.

There shipping is very pricey $14 for ground shipping for 4 spurs.
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Old 07-09-2014, 12:27 AM   #40911
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The Japan Nationals have wrapped up for another year. My performance wasn't all that great, but hey, there's always next year. However, I learned a lot especially from the top drivers in the stock class 21.5 2 cell.

1- The bigger the better.

In Japan there are no rules for rotor sizes, you can run what ever rotor size you wish. The largest rotor size available (that I know of) is 14.00 mm. So everyone and their dog were running 13.5 or 14.0 mm rotors. Torque is king! I decided to run the R1 Wurks 21.5, don't get me wrong, it had a lot of grunt, but it couldn't keep up with the rest of the motors. If I had a 13.5 rotor available then I think it would be a different story.

2. Power capacitors!

Were used by almost all the drivers. From my understanding, a power capacitor helps keep the cars electronics running at it's full potential thought the whole race. Kinda like a reservoir... G-force, acuvance and futbaba make some nice power capacitors.

3. Center Damper. I didn't think much of the Yokomo center damper and it's overall performance on the car. However, the 2 place driver who used a modified Yokomo C3 chassis setup said "Yokomo damper is too reactive and is not good for stock racing." Thus, he opted to use the Sqaure racing pitching damper which is very similar to HB's discontinued damper. After he told me this, I was curious about his comment and we compared both shocks with the exact same oil.. There was a HUGE difference between the dampening rate. He was right. The Yokomo shock was too quick with the 700 Kyosho oil, whereas the Sqaure was smooth. If I were to achieve the same dampening rate with the Yokomo shock, I would have to put 1300 Kyosho oil to achieve the same dampening.

4. Bodies - AMR hands down! It was the most used body at the Nationals.

5. Side Springs - There are two side spring mounting positions, either inner or outer (on top of side link) position.
All the drivers were using the latter position for this gives more traction throughout the corner. Naoto tried his best to explain it to me, but it was lost in translation. Oh, well.

6. Yokomo's rear bulkhead modification. After smashing his car hard into the boards during A2. Naoto's mechanic ended up having to rebuild the whole rear bulkhead. So fresh parts were needed for the new rebuild. What was interesting to see was that he took out a dremel tool with a drum grinder attachment and removed material around the axle bearing housing. I guess the fit is too tight on the bulkhead causing the plastic axle insert to place pressure on the bearing and cause unnecessary friction. He didn't spend to much time on it and only removed a small amount of material.
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Old 07-09-2014, 03:18 AM   #40912
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EDWARD2003 View Post
1- The bigger the better.

In Japan there are no rules for rotor sizes, you can run what ever rotor size you wish. The largest rotor size available (that I know of) is 14.00 mm. So everyone and their dog were running 13.5 or 14.0 mm rotors. Torque is king! I decided to run the R1 Wurks 21.5, don't get me wrong, it had a lot of grunt, but it couldn't keep up with the rest of the motors. If I had a 13.5 rotor available then I think it would be a different story.
The rotors from the same manufactures stock motors would be the same, it's the stators that are different each time
Quote:
2. Power capacitors!
Were used by almost all the drivers. From my understanding, a power capacitor helps keep the cars electronics running at it's full potential thought the whole race. Kinda like a reservoir... G-force, acuvance and futbaba make some nice power capacitors.
The power cap helps with the efficiency of the ESC due to the high frequencies. I believe every ESC has them either internally or externally

3. Center Damper. I didn't think much of the Yokomo center damper and it's overall performance on the car. However, the 2 place driver who used a modified Yokomo C3 chassis setup said "Yokomo damper is too reactive and is not good for stock racing." Thus, he opted to use the Sqaure racing pitching damper which is very similar to HB's discontinued damper. After he told me this, I was curious about his comment and we compared both shocks with the exact same oil.. There was a HUGE difference between the dampening rate. He was right. The Yokomo shock was too quick with the 700 Kyosho oil, whereas the Sqaure was smooth. If I were to achieve the same dampening rate with the Yokomo shock, I would have to put 1300 Kyosho oil to achieve the same dampening.

4. Bodies - AMR hands down! It was the most used body at the Nationals.

5. Side Springs - There are two side spring mounting positions, either inner or outer (on top of side link) position.
All the drivers were using the latter position for this gives more traction throughout the corner. Naoto tried his best to explain it to me, but it was lost in translation. Oh, well.

6. Yokomo's rear bulkhead modification. After smashing his car hard into the boards during A2. Naoto's mechanic ended up having to rebuild the whole rear bulkhead. So fresh parts were needed for the new rebuild. What was interesting to see was that he took out a dremel tool with a drum grinder attachment and removed material around the axle bearing housing. I guess the fit is too tight on the bulkhead causing the plastic axle insert to place pressure on the bearing and cause unnecessary friction. He didn't spend to much time on it and only removed a small amount of material.[/QUOTE]
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Old 07-09-2014, 05:05 AM   #40913
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TOADYY View Post
I have found some 71 & 72 spurs at:

http://www.customworksrc.com/Categor...speed+Products

Has anyone tried these? Does anyone know how to contact them? There seems to be no email, phone or contact info. I want to contact them to see if they have them in stock and to see what the "8225 adapter" is for that is mention in the picture of there spur gears.

There shipping is very pricey $14 for ground shipping for 4 spurs.
Awesomatix USA has RW 1/12 racing spurs in 70-72t 64p.
http://shop.awesomatixusa.com/rw-rac...spur-gear.html

Owner is a big 1/12 racer
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Old 07-09-2014, 05:13 AM   #40914
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[QUOTE=Skiddins;13389115]The rotors from the same manufactures stock motors would be the same, it's the stators that are different each time


We'll I would have to disagree with your comment, considering I witnessed firsthand the owner/motor tuner take out my "stock 12.4 mm rotor" and replace it with a 14.0 mm rotor. No changes or modifications were made to the stator, he just switched the rotors and that was it. A few test laps around track to fine tune the gearing and timing and it was running like a top. I never once saw anyone replace their stators, just rotors. Maybe Japanese motors are built differently, I for one don't know what the stator is inside the motor, nor do they state it anywhere on their website or packaging/instructions. Oh well as long a she runs fast

I'll tell you this a 21.5 ROAR "spec" 12.5 mm motor cannot keep up with these Japanese motors unless you replace it with a 13.5 or 14.0 mm rotor. Even the owner of Xenon mentioned that the D4 with a stock 12.5 mm wouldn't have a chance against the 13.5 /14.0 mm rotors. Thus he will be special ordering a shipment of D4s to japan which will have 13.0 or 13.5 rotors included.

Last edited by EDWARD2003; 07-09-2014 at 05:32 AM.
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Old 07-09-2014, 05:18 AM   #40915
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
The rotors from the same manufactures stock motors would be the same, it's the stators that are different each time


We'll I would have to disagree with your comment, considering I witnessed firsthand the owner/motor tuner take out my "stock 12.4 mm rotor" and replace it with a 14.0 mm rotor. No changes or modifications were made to the stator, he just switched the rotors and that was it. A few test laps around track to fine tune the gearing and timing and it was running like a top. I never once saw anyone replace their stators, just rotors. Maybe Japanese motors are built differently, I for one don't know what the stator is inside the motor, nor do they state it anywhere on their website or packaging/instructions. Oh well as long a she runs fast

I'll tell you this, you out of the package 21.5 ROAR spec motors cannot keep up with these Japanese motors unless they have a 13.5 or 14.0 mm rotors. Even the owner of Xenon mentioned that the D4 with a 12.5 mm wouldn't have a chance against the 13.5 /14.0 mm rotors. Therefore he's special ordering D4s shipped to japan to have 13.5 rotors included.
I think we're getting crossed wires here.
From the way you worded it I thought you meant 13.5 turn motor, I realise now you meant 13.5mm rotor.
And yes, a bigger rotor can add a lot of torque
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Old 07-09-2014, 05:28 AM   #40916
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It's all good in the hood
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Old 07-09-2014, 06:59 AM   #40917
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I bumped into this guy during the All Japan Nationals.

LEGEND!
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Old 07-09-2014, 08:50 AM   #40918
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Does anyone know of a 14mm rotor that fits a Reedy?
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Old 07-11-2014, 02:18 AM   #40919
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What's the opinion around here on CRC lipos? Specifically the 7000mah (CRC3705) rocket fuel.
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Old 07-11-2014, 10:34 AM   #40920
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patorz31 View Post
Does anyone know of a 14mm rotor that fits a Reedy?
+1, I'd like to know too.
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