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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 06-20-2014, 01:30 PM   #40876
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew S View Post
I'm wondering if anyone has tried anti fling chain lube on the diff balls of 12th?

I ask as I have been using anti fling chain lube on all my ecs xray T4 drive shafts and the stuff is awesome. it has increase the life of my ecs shafts dramatically. they show far less wear and seem better lubricated than when using grease.

I actually feel like it would work fantastic on our diff balls and will probably try it.
I wanted to know if anyone else has tried this?
If so am I wasting my time?

Anti fling chain lube is sticky to touch and is not thin like bearing lube.
The one I have is fully synthetic so should be fine on the plastic spurs.

Thoughts??
Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew S View Post
also wondering about a dry graphite powder like what you use on locks and stuff.
would not attract dust and tyre foam etc.

I might be just wasting my time, but someone need to try this stuff right!
Short answer - a waste of time. Long (and more polite!) answer...

Diff lube is there only to lubricate the balls in the holes in the diff gear. The diff works by generating friction between the balls and the rings, and between the balls and the races in the thrust race or outboard hub bearing.

If you use anything that is designed to lubricate areas of high load, you will reduce the effectiveness of the diff. So chain lube - design to take the high loads between the rollers and the pins - is the opposite of what is needed.

Also, if you use a lube with high shear properties and high viscosity, then you cause the balls not to move freely in the diff gear and create drag on the diff. A 12th car with a draggy or slipping diff is a 12th car that doesn't handle.

Lots and lots of different greases and oils have been tried on diffs. In the end, the man will forget more about diffs than most of us will ever know - Dave Irrgang of IRS - used to have a diff build guide that said only put enough grease on to smear the balls with a thin layer. Also, he only sells a light silicone grease as a diff lube - if he thought there was something better he would sell it.

Diffs get worse for three main reasons:
Dirt gets into the holes in the diff gear and cause the balls to bind in the holes.
Diffs are set too loose, slip and cut uneven tracks into the diff rings. These tracks cause the balls to dig little holes into the track making the diff 'gritty'.
The end bearings in the hub get damaged, especially when you hit the boards.

To get a perfect diff these guidelines might help:
Never use a silicon carbide bearing in the end of the hub. The balls are so small and the silicon so slippery that you need extra end load to get no slip. Always use a steel bearing like these from RC4Less.
Always use silicon carbide diff balls like these from RC4Less. They last an eternity (four seasons and still going strong for me) so if the diff does get a hammering they don't get flats worn onto them like steel balls do.
Diff rings are through hardened, so they will not go 'soft' if you clean the faces on silica carbide paper. At every rebuild, rub the diff on 600 grit wet 'n dry paper until the tracks made by the balls are eliminated. Providing you do this every time, your diff rings will last forever.

I hope that helps you save a bit of time with the greases, and gives you a smoother diff!
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Old 06-20-2014, 06:36 PM   #40877
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Excellent write up and very much appreciated!
Thanks for that!
That's the kind of info I was after!
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Old 06-22-2014, 08:22 AM   #40878
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http://www.speedpassion.net/en/produ...SP000150&c=ESC

Anyone who has experienced with the speed passion reventiom pro 1.1 EX esc ? it supports 1-2 cells lipo and it looks good for pan car. Please share with me your insight
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Old 06-22-2014, 06:55 PM   #40879
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedy100 View Post
http://www.speedpassion.net/en/produ...SP000150&c=ESC

Anyone who has experienced with the speed passion reventiom pro 1.1 EX esc ? it supports 1-2 cells lipo and it looks good for pan car. Please share with me your insight
I was using it in my WGT with no problem along with a 13.5 speed passion motor. It's now in my xray T4 and ran well at Homestead, FL along with a 17.5 speed passion motor today. Geared 96/ 54 spur pinion. Most of the day, Temp 118 ESC 114 Motor on a track that's design for nitro cars.
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Old 06-22-2014, 09:11 PM   #40880
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I had the pleasure, yes, the pleasure of racing my Yokomo R12C3 for the second time on carpet.

The RC12C3's first outing was at the warmup race for the All Japan Nationals. It handled really well considering it was it's first time on carpet.. The R12C3 managed to come out with an 11th place finish out of 60+ drivers, not bad, not bad.. However, the top drivers were running best lap times that were 0.300 faster than me.

The second outing was at http://www.kumin.ne.jp/k-sta/ if you ever get the chance is a beautiful racing facility in Kumamoto, Japan.

The traction level at this circuit was quite high, and the layout was technical. A few local fast guys were in attendance which gave me a bench mark for lap times. Now, when I say local fast guys, I mean faaaaassst. Hell ass fast! There was one guy in particular who was out pacing the local sponsored modified drivers. And he was running a 21.5 ..... WTF! I never got the chance to see what he was running, but the chassis was a CRC and would only suspect he's running a Team Powers Actinium motor.

I was dumbfounded and couldn't believe the pace and speed this guy was running at. His motor was screaming, and I mean SCREAMING down the straightway. He was carving and hitting the apex of the corners like nobodies business. The funny thing is, he wasn't even sponsored. His best lap time was 9.890 and running consistent 10.1 second laps. But the story behind this guy is that he's a pro-mini z driver. If you can drive a Kyosho mini-z you'll be an epic 1/12 driver. By the way, mini-z car are pretty awesome and handle really well especially for their size.

Anyway....

I, on the other hand had to figure out how to be fast. My starting setup was clocking in around 11.600 laps... Hell ass slow... I made a few changes to bring the car up to speed or close to the locals, which meant I had a lot of work to do. I started with side springs, I went from Yokomo black to purples, then changed the damper tube lube from 10,000 to 7,000. I found the track had enough traction to drop down to 7,000. Changing side springs have the car the grip I needed and the tube lube gave me the steering I needed in the corners.This brought the lap times down to a consistent 10.800. Next change was the center damper angle, I took one of 2 mm spacers out from the motor pod. The lap times were coming down, down to about 10.600 laps. Next, I found the front end was absorbing some of the speed on the sweeper entering the straight. I decided switched out the front yellow springs for yokomo red and that made all the difference. I managed to bring my laps down to consistent 10.400's and managed to pull a bast lap of a 10.364. Besides the 9.890 driver , I was only 0.100 a lap slower than the "other" slower-fast guys.

The tires of choice for most are

http://www.kimihiko-yano.jp/Product/...gi?gno=PM3-025

http://www.kimihiko-yano.jp/Product/...gi?gno=PM3-024

I was running Yokomo CRT Mediums front and rear.

http://www.jmrca.jp/championship/2014/prime/tq/top.htm

Can you spot the difference?

Last edited by EDWARD2003; 06-23-2014 at 04:45 AM.
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Old 06-23-2014, 03:38 AM   #40881
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EDWARD2003 View Post
It wasn't hard! Are you also one foot taller than the other drivers? (Edit: Yes, you are!)

Thanks for all of your very informative posts. It's rare that we get to hear how things happen in 1/12 scale elsewhere.
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Last edited by howardcano; 06-23-2014 at 04:04 AM.
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Old 06-23-2014, 03:48 AM   #40882
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Nice Shares Edward

I want to develop stock 1/12 21T too in here.... seems to be affordable too

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Old 06-24-2014, 02:20 PM   #40883
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Originally Posted by SlowerOne View Post
In the end, the man will forget more about diffs than most of us will ever know - Dave Irrgang of IRS - used to have a diff build guide that said only put enough grease on to smear the balls with a thin layer. Also, he only sells a light silicone grease as a diff lube - if he thought there was something better he would sell it.
Not quite a guide but good info none the less:

http://www.teamirsrc.com/techtips.html
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Old 06-26-2014, 01:20 PM   #40884
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Thanks, Conrad. That was what I was looking for - didn't realise Dave's old site was still there! It used to have the full diff building instructions but they don't seem to be there now. Note this point...

DURING ASSEMBLY THE ONLY PLACE DIFF LUBE IS REQUIRED IS A MINIMAL AMOUNT ON THE DIFF BALLS ONLY.

He da man!
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Old 06-26-2014, 05:12 PM   #40885
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Does anyone other than CRC make spur gears for 3/32 diff balls?

Thanks!
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Old 06-26-2014, 05:33 PM   #40886
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What advantage would 3/32 have vs 3mm or 1/8?
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Old 06-26-2014, 06:19 PM   #40887
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Does anyone other than CRC make spur gears for 3/32 diff balls?

Thanks!
Use Xenon gears...they are still 1/8" diff balls but has as many as the CRC ones. With the Xenon gears it is easy to get super smooth diffs.
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Old 06-26-2014, 06:35 PM   #40888
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Does Xeon have 71 & 72t 64p spur gears?
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Old 06-26-2014, 06:35 PM   #40889
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Quote:
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What advantage would 3/32 have vs 3mm or 1/8?
Quote:
Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
Use Xenon gears...they are still 1/8" diff balls but has as many as the CRC ones. With the Xenon gears it is easy to get super smooth diffs.
Thanks Guys!

I use Pro-one wheels/hubs and with my particular chassis I need the smaller diff balls to get the rear width I want. with 1/8th balls I can only make just a hair over 172, so I'd need to shave the wheels a bit or something.

I was hoping someone else made a 76t 64p gear for 3/32 balls. I'm pretty sure CRC only makes 72 or 80. Maybe I'm wrong?
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Old 06-26-2014, 08:17 PM   #40890
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Hmmm...I've been considering trying the Pro One axle and wheels...what car are you putting this on? I wonder how far the pod is off-set compared to others.
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