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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 06-19-2014, 12:25 AM   #40861
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Originally Posted by Josh-n-ya View Post
I grabed this one from Stormer Hobbies and I am really liking it. I thought it looked like the AMR that's why I got it. PAR10207L Parma 1/12th EE1 Clear Body, Light weight, .020 lexan Plenty of rear traction and tons of stearing.
The EE1 is Parma's version of the AMR. It works decently well. My favorite is the Parma Speed8 HD. It doesn't get much attention but to me it is the most stable feeling and best balanced.
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Old 06-19-2014, 12:57 AM   #40862
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Hi Edward2003

I just learnt from TeamBomber's website that they use 3500MaH 2S Lipo for 21.5T 1/12th class (and their rollouts are around 65mm-85mm)


How long the race duration for 21.5T class in Japan ?

If I buy Yokomo 2800MaH 2S Lipo, would this be sufficient for (at least) 6 minutes race in 21.5T 1/12th class ?
The races are 8 minutes long and we usually use 14.00 mm rotors for maximum torque and turn the timing down just a little to smooth out the power band. .

I wouldn't buy Yokomo brand batteries... I spoke with a top 1/12 driver and he mentioned the batteries are no good for stock racing. He said the best stock racing batteries are Reedy.
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Old 06-19-2014, 02:52 AM   #40863
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Originally Posted by EDWARD2003 View Post
The races are 8 minutes long and we usually use 14.00 mm rotors for maximum torque and turn the timing down just a little to smooth out the power band. .

I wouldn't buy Yokomo brand batteries... I spoke with a top 1/12 driver and he mentioned the batteries are no good for stock racing. He said the best stock racing batteries are Reedy.

I see.

Thanks a lot for sharing the information mate.
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Old 06-19-2014, 11:55 AM   #40864
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Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
My favorite is the Parma Speed8 HD. It doesn't get much attention but to me it is the most stable feeling and best balanced.
I need to agree with you on that one!

Regards Robert
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Old 06-19-2014, 01:36 PM   #40865
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I need to agree with you on that one!

Regards Robert
A painter I know had one and gave me when I raced a few years ago. It was reg weight. I did like it too and worked well in mod.
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Old 06-19-2014, 04:19 PM   #40866
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I'm wondering if anyone has tried anti fling chain lube on the diff balls of 12th?

I ask as I have been using anti fling chain lube on all my ecs xray T4 drive shafts and the stuff is awesome. it has increase the life of my ecs shafts dramatically. they show far less wear and seem better lubricated than when using grease.

I actually feel like it would work fantastic on our diff balls and will probably try it.
I wanted to know if anyone else has tried this?
If so am I wasting my time?

Anti fling chain lube is sticky to touch and is not thin like bearing lube.
The one I have is fully synthetic so should be fine on the plastic spurs.

Thoughts??
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Old 06-19-2014, 05:04 PM   #40867
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew S View Post
I'm wondering if anyone has tried anti fling chain lube on the diff balls of 12th?

I ask as I have been using anti fling chain lube on all my ecs xray T4 drive shafts and the stuff is awesome. it has increase the life of my ecs shafts dramatically. they show far less wear and seem better lubricated than when using grease.

I actually feel like it would work fantastic on our diff balls and will probably try it.
I wanted to know if anyone else has tried this?
If so am I wasting my time?

Anti fling chain lube is sticky to touch and is not thin like bearing lube.
The one I have is fully synthetic so should be fine on the plastic spurs.

Thoughts??
Try it, and post your results

However, it's my understanding that "diff-lube" is not so much a lubricant, more of a synthetic film to increase the friction between the diff balls, and rings, so that less tension is required to keep the unit from slipping, while allowing a very free differential rotation to both wheels

If say, you want less diff-rotation, all manner of thicker lubes have been used, especially in F1, or FWD
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Old 06-19-2014, 05:11 PM   #40868
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well I was more thinking along these lines to make it easy and fast to lube the balls,
but the main reason is to maximize to time between rebuilds while still keeping the diff smooth as possible.
Seems tyre and track gunk fouls up the diff just as fast as the wear, making the diff feel gritty before it's time.
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Old 06-19-2014, 05:15 PM   #40869
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also wondering about a dry graphite powder like what you use on locks and stuff.
would not attract dust and tyre foam etc.

I might be just wasting my time, but someone need to try this stuff right!
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Old 06-19-2014, 08:11 PM   #40870
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Now, would the TR-12 be good for "green" low traction carpet? This event will have new carpet laid down, so there's no traction whatsoever.
I would think yes. Hagberg uses the TR-12 on asphalt and AMR-12 on carpet. The TR appears fine on asphalt so would bet on green carpet it would be good too. Take both with you and switch out when needed!
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Old 06-19-2014, 08:18 PM   #40871
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I ended up buying Speed8HD, AMR, and TR. I'll test them out this weekend.
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Old 06-19-2014, 08:20 PM   #40872
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Awesome! Can't wait to hear the results.
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Old 06-19-2014, 10:24 PM   #40873
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+1

and don't forget to share the pics of bodies too
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Old 06-19-2014, 11:14 PM   #40874
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also wondering about a dry graphite powder like what you use on locks and stuff.
would not attract dust and tyre foam etc.

I might be just wasting my time, but someone need to try this stuff right!
I think you can definitely test it out and let us know how it goes, but my understanding is that the whole point of dedicated diff grease is that it's NOT really slippery grease. As someone else pointed out it's meant to help achieve proper friction between the balls and the diff plates, but also to lubricate the whole system. I've seen some videos from pro drivers and they use minimal amounts of diff grease on the balls, and none on the rings.

But experiment and tell us the results, perhaps you're about to discover The Next Big Thing
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Old 06-19-2014, 11:31 PM   #40875
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+1

and don't forget to share the pics of bodies too
Don't expect any fancy paint jobs. Lol.

I'll also snap a photo of the Team Bomber Yokomo C3 rear damper tube conversion.
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