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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 06-17-2014, 09:47 PM   #40846
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Car Breaker View Post
I have x12 2014 and like it a lot especially the maintenance and durability. it share all the tools and screws of modern touring making it a very good choice of second car to have fun with.
the standard today is brushless combo with 3.7 lipo battery and most car are design for that. there are several choice of esc support 3.7 with booster for rx such as HW 3.1 1s, Airtronics super vortex zero (I think), LRP Flow work, Nosram Comet HD.....

X12 2014 is a car with small area for electronic especially if you want to run inline. for inline, orca, LRP and Norsram will fit, other wise run cross battery will allow bigger esc like HW3.1 1s, Speed passion reventon 1s......
Sorry, do you know the HW2.1 also fit the cross tray battery if I use 2 cells lipo ?
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Old 06-17-2014, 10:24 PM   #40847
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sdunnmcp View Post
We don't run those compounds anymore. on asphalt Orange rear and Team Purple or Dbl Pink front is much better. Your car is also too narrow, I would run it at 167 front and 172 rear. Also reduce ride height to 4mm and increase droop to 2mm (Typical droop is 1.2-1.5 on carpet). More droop will keep the rear end from being loose.

Hope this helps.
Everything helps , even if its just to compare with what I already know

Unfortunately, I have no way of increasing front width even 1mm let alone 7mm ... but if I have my facts straight, shouldn't the narrow front actually be helping me?

I'm not sure I can really reduce ride height as none of the surfaces I run on are smooth enough. Even the carpet track I go too is quite bumpy as its just an old workshop with carpet laid straight onto the concrete.

Tyre options here are limited so I use what I can get but have never heard of Orange rears and I already use Purple fronts and sometimes Lilac (sorry I said Magenta in my first post) which should be in between purple and dbl pink if i read the tyre guides right
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Old 06-17-2014, 10:50 PM   #40848
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Most racers out here in Japan, including me, run Magenta front and rear or a shore rating of 35 front and 35 rear.

The narrower width will result in less grip.

Narrow = more lateral weight transfer = less grip
Wide = less lateral weight transfer = more grip

Hence, why drivers go for the widest (172 mm) rear end setting.

Ideally, you want to run around 4 mm of ride height.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Martin Crisp View Post
yes you understand things correctly. Just to back that up with some math.

Here is the formula to determine lateral weight transfer

LWT = (CarWeight x CGHeight)/ TrackWidth

Algebra tells us that the larger the track width the less lateral weight transfer will happen.

So if your trackwidth is wider, resulting in less lateral weight transfer, then this will keep more vertical load on the inside tire resulting in more lateral grip.

As I explain in the app and mentioned in my previous post, the greater the difference in vertical load between the inside and outside tire, the less lateral grip you will get due to the tire performance curve.

Cheers.
Thanks Martin,

Last edited by EDWARD2003; 06-18-2014 at 11:27 PM. Reason: I screwed up the weight transfer section.
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Old 06-18-2014, 12:25 AM   #40849
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I have found that changing the rear track width of my car changes its handling very little. It may help fight traction roll just a bit, though.

Rear droop I always just set to max, no limit other than how far the spring will push the rear pod down. Whether this is prudent or not I'm not really sure.
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Old 06-18-2014, 01:23 AM   #40850
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EDWARD2003 View Post
Most racers out here in Japan, including me, run Magenta front and rear or a shore rating of 35 front and 35 rear.

The narrower width will result in less grip.

Narrow = less lateral weight transfer = less grip
Wide = more lateral weight transfer = more grip

Hence, why drivers go for the widest (172 mm) rear end setting.

Ideally, you want to run around 4 mm of ride height.

thats interesting that you mention this, as found this online saying opposite

Front Track Width:
Wider - Decrease front grip, give slower steering response & increase understeer.
Narrower - Increase front grip, give faster steering response & decrease understeer. More aggressive steering.

Rear track Width:
Wider Increase the stability of the car, increase rear grip at corner entry & middle corner & decrease corner speed.
Narrower Increase rear grip at corner exit, increase corner speed & increase car responsiveness.
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Old 06-18-2014, 05:48 PM   #40851
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In the next couple of weeks, on July 5th and 6th will be the "Real" 1/12th Japanese Nationals. I'm wondering what 1/12th body would be a good for stock class?

My previous body was a Team Bomber LMP (Japanese Brand) and did fairly well with it. However, I do have a Protoform TR-12 available. What's are the handling characteristics for the TR-12?
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Old 06-18-2014, 07:11 PM   #40852
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For carpet the TR-12 seems like too much down force. It feels slow and too stuck. The AMR-12 is much better!
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Old 06-18-2014, 10:15 PM   #40853
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Now, would the TR-12 be good for "green" low traction carpet? This event will have new carpet laid down, so there's no traction whatsoever.
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Old 06-18-2014, 10:18 PM   #40854
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That was actually my question as well, I wanted to know what works well on indoor carpet in 17.5. Any feedback on the new CRC bodies, specifically the Lola B10? http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ....asp?p_id=7839

Or is PF still the way to go?
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Old 06-18-2014, 10:34 PM   #40855
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Default Tweak station

I'm back to 1/12 racing after 5 years off. I have tweak station, since the car now not t-bar but link, does the tweaking procedure still the same, or how ?
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Old 06-18-2014, 10:59 PM   #40856
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The winner of the 1/12th stock Pre-Japan National race was using the AMR-12. So, I'm going to go for the AMR-12.
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Old 06-18-2014, 11:38 PM   #40857
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I grabed this one from Stormer Hobbies and I am really liking it. I thought it looked like the AMR that's why I got it. PAR10207L Parma 1/12th EE1 Clear Body, Light weight, .020 lexan Plenty of rear traction and tons of stearing.
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Old 06-18-2014, 11:47 PM   #40858
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I've seen a lot of people praising the Parma bodies, so I'm curious about them too. Are they comparable to PF quality and handling?
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Old 06-18-2014, 11:58 PM   #40859
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Quote:
Originally Posted by metalnut View Post
I've seen a lot of people praising the Parma bodies, so I'm curious about them too. Are they comparable to PF quality and handling?
Just getting back into 12th scale again after a two year break. I used to have the AMR bodies then and they were great. Only grabed this one cuz I was doing some shopping at Stormer and said what the heck. Its only $16 bucks. Pretty glad I did and would do it again. Not flimsy and taller rear wing gave me a lot of traction on parking lot track. Might be too much on high bite carpet. Also had to turn down my steering but in all drives great for me.
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Old 06-19-2014, 12:02 AM   #40860
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Originally Posted by EDWARD2003 View Post
In the next couple of weeks, on July 5th and 6th will be the "Real" 1/12th Japanese Nationals.
Hi Edward2003

I just learnt from TeamBomber's website that they use 3500MaH 2S Lipo for 21.5T 1/12th class (and their rollouts are around 65mm-85mm)


How long the race duration for 21.5T class in Japan ?

If I buy Yokomo 2800MaH 2S Lipo, would this be sufficient for (at least) 6 minutes race in 21.5T 1/12th class ?
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