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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 06-11-2014, 02:29 PM   #40831
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cmunro View Post
i am new to 1/12 scale and trying to find out how shock angle effects handling ?
As stated, the steeper the shock angle, the more steering you will get, but the spring has a greater impact on this aspect of handling, so regard the angle as fine tuning.

Ideally, the angle between the centre of the bottom pivot, the centre of the top pivot and centre of the front pivot will be 90 degrees. This means that the leverage of the rear pod will all act directly into the spring and shock giving the maximum control over the weight transfer.

If this angle gets to be greater than 90 degrees (as on the 12R5.2 as standard) then the movement of the rear pod is partly used to push the shock down instead of compressing it. That makes the whole mechanism stiffer and reduces the progression of the weight transfer. I think this is part of the reason that a 'softer' shock has appeared on some of the A team cars - the Hot Bodies one.

Get the steering and rear grip you want from the spring first, and fine tune with the angle second. Most drivers I know set the shock angle and leave it, suing springs and oil to get the steering they need.

Quote:
Originally Posted by EDWARD2003 View Post
Most of us know what tire stagger is. How much should we use and under what conditions?

I notice modified drivers using between 0.5 mm to 1 mm of stagger.

Stock racing ? ?

How much should one run for slower classes? Under what conditions should you run more or less stagger?

The less stagger you have, the more rotation you get in the turns. It's another fine tuning option - if you can't get the car to rotate in the first place no amount of stagger adjustment is going to make it rotate.

Tyre size has a greater impact on corner speed and rotation. the top guys use very small tyres to minimise rolling resistance and maximise response from the tyres.

For those that can afford two or three run tyres, use the sizes you find in the set-up sheets of the top drivers. Otherwise, start at something sensible, stop before the tyres wear out and assemble a collection of good tyres at differing diameters. Sue those to play with stagger, find one that suits you and stick to it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Josh-n-ya View Post
In regards to this is there an explanation to having the shock with the piston at the top pointed towards the rear of car vs. pointed towards the front of car leaning downward?
With the shock body facing down there are two advantages. The inertia in the system is limited to the ball cup and the shaft so the reaction to the weight transfer is faster and more 'accurate'. Also, the oil flows down towards the sealed end of the shock so leaks are less likely. Reverse those traits for having the shock body attached to the pod.

If you have the AE 12R5 shock you have no choice of mounting orientation. It's no coincidence that they designed it with the shock body down...

HTH
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Old 06-11-2014, 02:50 PM   #40832
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Good Info! Tire stagger was discovered by the boys in NASCAR. The car will steer differently in each direction depending on the side the larger tire is mounted on. If you set the car up with equal size tires and tweak it flat, then put a larger tire on one side you will pick up a bit of understeer in corners where the big tire is on the outside at the expense of a bit of oversteer the other way. This was a useful tuning tool for oval racers, but not widely used by road racers. With radial tires the size differences were almost eliminated so you don't hear NASCAR teams say they are adjusting the stagger much today. It can be a useful tool, but primarily in oval.
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Old 06-12-2014, 02:42 PM   #40833
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Lonny, the stagger I am referring to is the different between the front wheel diameter and the rear wheel diameter.

Side to side stagger does exactly as you state, and it is also related to the change in corner weights you get when you do that. For 12th track cars, don't use any side-to-side stagger. If the front to rear stagger is reduced, you get more rotation. HTH
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Old 06-12-2014, 04:08 PM   #40834
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what's the idea of the stealth diff rings? do they work on the 12r5.2? is the idea that they can turn on the hubs rather the lock in like a "D" plate?
Are they better?
Anyone use em?
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Old 06-12-2014, 04:55 PM   #40835
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I don't know when it became the norm for locking rings, but I haven't seen a non-locking type diff ring for a long time (early 90's).
E
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Old 06-12-2014, 05:46 PM   #40836
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Stealth rings are smaller in diameter. You would have to have a stealth axle and use the inside ring of holes on gears that have them. Everyone used to pin their diff to prevent the rings from slipping. D rings eliminated the need for that do it yourself process. You don't want the rings to slip because that makes for a less smooth and efficient diff, usually leading to the diff snatching as the ring slips and drags and slips and drags.
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Old 06-12-2014, 06:38 PM   #40837
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Ah cool! Thanks guys for clearing that up!
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Old 06-14-2014, 09:37 PM   #40838
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Hey, i left the 12 scale for 5 years and in am going back to this scale again. What kit that i should pick up nowaday ? xray, AE or kyosho ? it looks like the xray x12 seems to be good design. What esc and motor ? i still have a hand coil brush 6T motor at home from japan, can i still use thr brush motor or i need brushless combo ? please share with me your experience and thought ?

Thanks
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Old 06-15-2014, 01:24 AM   #40839
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I have x12 2014 and like it a lot especially the maintenance and durability. it share all the tools and screws of modern touring making it a very good choice of second car to have fun with.
the standard today is brushless combo with 3.7 lipo battery and most car are design for that. there are several choice of esc support 3.7 with booster for rx such as HW 3.1 1s, Airtronics super vortex zero (I think), LRP Flow work, Nosram Comet HD.....

X12 2014 is a car with small area for electronic especially if you want to run inline. for inline, orca, LRP and Norsram will fit, other wise run cross battery will allow bigger esc like HW3.1 1s, Speed passion reventon 1s......
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Old 06-16-2014, 10:32 PM   #40840
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Just received my Team prime shock from Reflex racing.
I have not raced with it yet, but the quality is the best ive seen and it really is super smooth! well worth the money!

On the other hand, while waiting for this shock to be stocked and then to arrive here in oz, I managed to make my AE through shock extremely smooth also, but it took a lot of work!
I first finely sanded the plastic stops that hold the orings with 800 paper, then polished the plastic edges. very, very light work so as not to remove any material.
I then did the same with the metal rod and piston, buffing them to a high shine on my buffing wheel attachment on my grinder. The whole thing now is super smooth and works a treat.

Or you could just buy the team prime and build it with out any mods for the same smoothness!
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Old 06-17-2014, 12:55 AM   #40841
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Hi 1/12 set-up gurus... I am trying to make a fairly major change to the handling of my RM01. Currently it has heaps of on-power and high speed steering but almost no off-power or low speed steering. I've checked through a couple of setup guides but not sure where to start. I know the front end does limit me a fair bit and if nothing else works I'll have to change it but for now its what I have.

Current setup -

10.5T
kit side springs and pitch spring
450wt oil in pitch shock (option Tamiya shock)
40000wt on roll shock (friction)
original kit front end but using Associated .020 springs with 40000wt oil on the kingpins and Tamiya option ride height shims to give more castor.
Battery slight more to the rear (not a lot of room for changes).
currently 0deg toe

Tried various tyres but usually end up with Pink rear with purple or magenta fronts... going to try some of the new Greens and Blues when I next order some tyres.

Cheers
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Old 06-17-2014, 04:18 AM   #40842
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40k weight on side tube is very hard, assuming your racing on-road
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Old 06-17-2014, 07:20 AM   #40843
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShadowAu View Post
Hi 1/12 set-up gurus... I am trying to make a fairly major change to the handling of my RM01. Currently it has heaps of on-power and high speed steering but almost no off-power or low speed steering. I've checked through a couple of setup guides but not sure where to start. I know the front end does limit me a fair bit and if nothing else works I'll have to change it but for now its what I have.

Current setup -

10.5T
kit side springs and pitch spring
450wt oil in pitch shock (option Tamiya shock)
40000wt on roll shock (friction)
original kit front end but using Associated .020 springs with 40000wt oil on the kingpins and Tamiya option ride height shims to give more castor.
Battery slight more to the rear (not a lot of room for changes).
currently 0deg toe

Tried various tyres but usually end up with Pink rear with purple or magenta fronts... going to try some of the new Greens and Blues when I next order some tyres.

Cheers
If I had to guess, I'd say you are running on low grip asphalt ?

That is a fairly stiff setup
Try going soft
No kingpin lube
AE .018 fr springs
AE Silver Sides just touching links
15k side damper lube

Make sure side links and pod are free

What is the width fr & rr using the wheels you have ?
Set ride height level with about 2mm droop
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Old 06-17-2014, 05:45 PM   #40844
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
If I had to guess, I'd say you are running on low grip asphalt ?

That is a fairly stiff setup
Try going soft
No kingpin lube
AE .018 fr springs
AE Silver Sides just touching links
15k side damper lube

Make sure side links and pod are free

What is the width fr & rr using the wheels you have ?
Set ride height level with about 2mm droop
Yeah fairly low grip - could possibly stretch to medium if its prepped really well, but even the carpet track I have access to isn't particularly high grip IMO.

Stiff is a relative thing I am guessing? It doesn't feel stiff on the bench but I guess on the track its probably reacting like that.

I am running 5mm ride height but honestly not sure about droop off the top of my head other than I know there is some.

Width is 160mm front, 165mm rear.
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Old 06-17-2014, 08:51 PM   #40845
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShadowAu View Post
Yeah fairly low grip - could possibly stretch to medium if its prepped really well, but even the carpet track I have access to isn't particularly high grip IMO.

Stiff is a relative thing I am guessing? It doesn't feel stiff on the bench but I guess on the track its probably reacting like that.

I am running 5mm ride height but honestly not sure about droop off the top of my head other than I know there is some.

Width is 160mm front, 165mm rear.
We don't run those compounds anymore. on asphalt Orange rear and Team Purple or Dbl Pink front is much better. Your car is also too narrow, I would run it at 167 front and 172 rear. Also reduce ride height to 4mm and increase droop to 2mm (Typical droop is 1.2-1.5 on carpet). More droop will keep the rear end from being loose.

Hope this helps.
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